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DIY intank fuel pump removal

Bunnspeed

Salad Tosser
Location
MA
Car(s)
2008 GTI four door
I just replaced my in tank fuel pump. I tried finding a DIY for a MKV but only found a MKIV by dremhmrk2 from vwvortex .

I used some of his DIY to make this.

1. Pull fuse for low pressure fuel pump (in-tank fuel sender)


2. Remove bottom portion of back seat (Use NewaveRide DIY http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?p=902339)


3. Lift up passenger side carpet to expose access panel


4. Remove wiring module


5. Unplug harness from module

6. Start car and let engine run until it cuts out

7. Pry up wiring boot from access panel


8. Lift off access panel


9. Disconnect wiring harness from fuel pump


10. Using flat head screw driver, pry up slightly at these points on retaining ring


11. Use a rubber mallet and flat head to spin retaining ring counter-clockwise

12. Having rags handy, unclip the hoses (by pressing on the side of the D-clip) and pull off slowly (there will be built up pressure left in the pump, gas will come out)


13. Remove sending unit and gasket (be aware of the fuel level float attached to the pump)

When installing new fuel pump you have to pinch the points back down on retaining ring referred to on step 10 before spinning retaining ring clockwise to lock fuel pump in place.


Thanks for reading. Please post any other tips and tricks to this DIY.





Holy frack are the d-clips a bitch to remove! I'm stuck on this step atm. In fact, I'd probably suggest you reverse steps 11 and 12 since it's a lot harder to work precisely removing the fuel lines from the pump when the pump is wiggling all over the place.

Also probably a good idea to vacuum the top of the pump before you remove it since mine was covered in loose dirt that could get in the tank when the pump is being worked on.

Can anyone give me pointers as to how to remove those damned d-clips??
 

Stylist07

Banned
Location
Dallas
Car(s)
MKV R32 DBP #1238
Can anyone give me pointers as to how to remove those damned d-clips??

U need to relieve the pressure of the line first, by loosening the gas cap and u can also relieve the pressure by pressing the Schrader valve nipple on the fuel rail too.

JUST BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING TIS CUZ FUEL WILL SHOOT OUT!!!!

Once the pressure is relieved then u can remove the fuel line D clips connections.

U need to PUSH in on the fuel line to relieve the clips THEN push the clip in and hold down while u then pull out.

If u just try to push the clip in and then pull out to remove the hole it will not come off cuz the clips have pressure built up on the and u need to PUSH the line in to relieve this pressure.

I hope that I'm thanking about the right thing that u are talking / asking about?!

Hope this helps man :w00t:
 
Channel locks. Gently.
 

gikku

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Sydney NSW
Thanks for the how to. :thumbsup:
did mine today, quite easy really.

disconnecting the wiring harness from the fuel pump was a little tricky. needed to hold up the red latch and pry off with flat head screwdriver in one movement.
 

Bunnspeed

Salad Tosser
Location
MA
Car(s)
2008 GTI four door
Any suggestions for cleaning up the grime around the seal area without having that grime fall into the tank?

Also, any suggestions for dealing with the grime that falls into the tank? I was thinking of trying a fish tank net to fish some of that shit out, and letting my fuel filter handle the rest, and then I'll replace the filter in a couple of weeks.
 

LeBlaaanc

New member
Location
Texas
Hey all,

I just found out that my fuel control module (1K0906093B) was melted causing fuse SC27 to blow and throwing a code (J17 open circuit). Do you guys think the fuel pump caused the control module to melt or is it just an old module? Any thoughts on what the current draw (and pins) should be to test for certain?

Just curious if I should spend the extra $150 bucks on a pump or just replace the module.

Everything seemed fine really with the exception of the 2 other oddball occurrences when the car wouldn't start right away (this occurrence being the last straw).

I have 106000mi on what I'm guessing is the original pump.
 
Hey all,

I just found out that my fuel control module (1K0906093B) was melted causing fuse SC27 to blow and throwing a code (J17 open circuit). Do you guys think the fuel pump caused the control module to melt or is it just an old module? Any thoughts on what the current draw (and pins) should be to test for certain?

Just curious if I should spend the extra $150 bucks on a pump or just replace the module.

Everything seemed fine really with the exception of the 2 other oddball occurrences when the car wouldn't start right away (this occurrence being the last straw).

I have 106000mi on what I'm guessing is the original pump.

Where are you getting an LPFP for $150? Rev. DB pumps are going for $220 online. Real VW ones anyway.

Overheating control units are a known issue, though this is the first i have heard of one melting down.

Make sure you get the Rev. G control unit.

Do you have VAG-COM or know someone who has it? once you have installed the new control unit, you will need to run adaptation for it with VAG-COM.

And when you do, you can check the duty cycle of the LPFP. It should be under 70% at idle.

If it's over 70%, think about getting a new pump. If it's over 90%, get a new pump, period.

Do you have a friend with a Mk5 who can loan you a known working control unit for an hour?
 
Oh, i hear rumors that hard starts can be caused by a weakening LPFP. But i don't know that this is true.

The suggestion is that there is no check valve because the pump itself is supposed to be able to keep fuel from flowing back into the tank while the engine is off, but a worn out pump will let it flow back anyway.

dunno if this is true, but my current LPFP is marginal, and i often have to crank for 10 seconds or more, or just turn the key half way and wait a bit before starting, as though i were in a diesel.
 

thebatch

New member
Location
England
Sorry to resurrect such an old post but first of all what a great guide.

Just replaced the fuel pump on my 2005 1.6FSI auto which has been suffering from the 'fuel cut' issue but unfortunately it has not cured the problem.

I am able to replicate the loss of power quite easily by just accelerating harshly in 3rd gear or demanding full throttle when around 50-60mph. I dont get any engine lights appear though nor are any fault codes logged.

Any recommendations on what to try next? Pump module?
 

Bunnspeed

Salad Tosser
Location
MA
Car(s)
2008 GTI four door
Sorry to resurrect such an old post but first of all what a great guide.

Just replaced the fuel pump on my 2005 1.6FSI auto which has been suffering from the 'fuel cut' issue but unfortunately it has not cured the problem.

I am able to replicate the loss of power quite easily by just accelerating harshly in 3rd gear or demanding full throttle when around 50-60mph. I dont get any engine lights appear though nor are any fault codes logged.

Any recommendations on what to try next? Pump module?

Have you checked the cam follower lately? What mods are on your car?
 

thebatch

New member
Location
England
Have you checked the cam follower lately? What mods are on your car?

No i haven't checked the follower as yet but just found this excellent guide
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858

Im currently going through the 24pages but as yet it doesnt describe what i should be looking for in terms of damage to the follower that may causing the issue. Or is it best to replace with new?

The car is completely standard with 85,000 miles on the clock.

Really appreciate your help - only had the car a couple of months and would love to solve the issue rather than be forced to sell on.
 

EvilCookie

Ready to race!
Location
Miramar, FL
Hey guys,

Just got this done today and would like to give a big thanks to OP for posting the DIY.

Everything went well and would just like to give a few tips for anyone else looking into doing this job. First of all, parts.

I ordered my fuel pump from europaparts.com and got a VDO brand fuel pump for $160. The OEM pump is about $300. Other brands can be had for $180-200 but I did not recognize the brands or their history so I stuck with VDO. Part number is 1K0919051DB.

You also might want to get a gasket with the fuel pump, part number 1J0919133B.

Here are links for both.

http://www.europaparts.com/fuel-pump-1k0919051db.html

http://www.europaparts.com/fuel-pump-seal-1j0919133b.html

If you have difficulty with the D-Clips or retaining ring, just follow the tips already posted. My fuel pump was quite dirty with dirt and grit so I vacuumed the area before I took the pump out, as to not have the dirt fall into the fuel below. I could not get the new gasket to seal well with the fuel pump so I ended up just using the old gasket. When I compared them, the old gasket looked to be slightly smaller. It was still in great shape so I used it.

Hope the links help someone save some money.
 

jdantz

New member
Location
Greensboro, NC
Hi everyone,

Apologies if this bump is unwelcome, but I found this DIY through Google as I imagine a lot of others will and wanted to chime in. This job is quite easy and I completed it in around 30 minutes.

On the subject of the retaining ring, I did not actually have to pry up on anything. However, I was confused which part of the ring to hit with the screwdriver. I got it by using the inside part of the ring, rather than the outside.
 
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