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DIY: 2.0T FSI Timing Belt Replacement for GTI/A3/Jetta

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Yeah the coolant line that runs from the back of the engine to the front presses up against the cover. There have been a few on this site that have complained about rubbing noises, but I don't think it's worth taking everything off.

There's actually two different belt covers. One has a single piece cover and the other has a 2 piece cover. If you have a North American GTI, or any BPY engine code, you'll have the single piece cover. Removing it will necessitate the removal of the engine mount and engine bracket. Unless the sound is absolutely irritating, I'd probably wait until I was doing the timing belt job to solve the problem.

I can almost assure you that I have a two piece timing belt cover on my MY2006 North American BPY. There is a definite junction between the two pieces just below the coolant line, and there is no inspection window.
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
OP,

Not trying to create an argument, but I don't understand (maybe I can't visualize it well enough) how you can tell where the timing is by rotating the motor twice. Let me try to explain. Let's use this image:

So, the big gear (circle) on the left is the cam shaft gear. And the small gear (circle) on the right is the crank shaft gear.

Assume the dot the arrow is pointing to is the mark you made on the timing belt. If you were to rotate the circle on the right 720 degrees, you would rotate the circle on the left less than 720 degrees. Therefore, if you turn the motor twice (crank shaft gear 720 degrees) the cam shaft gear is going to rotate less than 720 degrees. So, you won't get the timing marks to line up right again.

IMO, use a thorough marking system on the old belt while still on the motor, and then transfer the marks very carefully, then install the new belt lined up with the marks on the gears the first time.

Again, OP, AWESOME DIY. Super stoked this resource is out there for all of us to reference. :bow:

It all has to do the with ability of the belt to "stretch". As mentioned in my timing tips, it is possible to have the crankshaft and cam gears both aligned on the markings, with the belt being one tooth off in either direction. This is just one of the hassles of having a belt, which due to it's construction and materials, does NOT have a definite circumference; it stretches.

As for marking the belt, doing so would only assure you that the correct number of teeth were on each side of the "loop" once situated on the gears. On a side note, I did eventually mark my belt after my second attempt at timing the engine. I could tell from the 2 first attempts that I was a tooth off in the same direction on each attempt. Once again, this was because the belt needed to be extremely tight on the right side with all available slack on the left. Anyways, although belt marking aids in applying the belt, it will give you NO indication on the crank being in-line with the cam. The only marking to time the crank is on the crank pulley, which is removed early in the procedure and not put back on until after the timing procedure is done. That's why it's extremely important to mark the crankshaft gear to the block immediately after removing pulley. Marking the belt may help applying the belt, but if you've bumped the cam gear at anytime while the belt is removed you have a crank that is no longer in unison with the cam.

So to summarize, marking the belt is not necessary, but it may be helpful.:smile:

BTW, the only reason for rotating the crank 720 is because it rotates the cam 360, bring the only factory markings back in line to compare with your drawn markings.

I can almost assure you that I have a two piece timing belt cover on my MY2006 North American BPY. There is a definite junction between the two pieces just below the coolant line, and there is no inspection window.

Yeah the 2 piece cover does not have an inspection window because you just unscrew the 2 bolts near the top of the cover and take it off.
 

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Yeah the 2 piece cover does not have an inspection window because you just unscrew the 2 bolts near the top of the cover and take it off.

So can you confirm that the coolant line has to be moved to pull the upper cover? When pulling the coolant line, will it be necessary to burp the system after reassembling.
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
So can you confirm that the coolant line has to be moved to pull the upper cover? When pulling the coolant line, will it be necessary to burp the system after reassembling.

I can't "confirm" as I don't have that part version on my car. My guess is it is NOT necessary. If you do have to end up doing it, just remove the one hose clamp then pull the hose off the metal tube ...not a big deal.

Not trying to be rude, but if simply removing a hose clamp and disconnecting a hose to see if it's an issue is such a big deal, you might want to leave the car work to someone else.
 

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Not trying to be rude, but if simply removing a hose clamp and disconnecting a hose to see if it's an issue is such a big deal, you might want to leave the car work to someone else.

I've split cases on several bikes, rebuilt outboards, did the springs/shocks on my MKV and so on. I am not a master-tech by a long shot, but I'm a noob for asking if the fucking coolant system needs to be burped after introducing air into the turbo-bound coolant line? :iono:

Lol.
 

Lsmaclea

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Allston MA
It all has to do the with ability of the belt to "stretch". As mentioned in my timing tips, it is possible to have the crankshaft and cam gears both aligned on the markings, with the belt being one tooth off in either direction. This is just one of the hassles of having a belt, which due to it's construction and materials, does NOT have a definite circumference; it stretches.


I have only replaced one timing belt myself before (00' AVH 2.0 Golf) so my technical background is limited, but I still am not sure I agree with you ZachL. I have a thought I'll try to explain below:

If the timing belt on the motor is off by even just one tooth, the timing is way out of whack.

Therefore, there is an exact number of teeth that MUST be on each side of the pulley system. That number is the same for the old, and replacement belt.

Therefore, if someone marks the old belt to the pulleys well, and transfers the marks to the new belt properly, doesn't rotate the pulleys at all, and then installs the new belt such that the marks line up perfectly to the pulleys, I don't see any way for the timing to be off. You've ensured that the same number of belt teeth are between the marks you made. Therefore, the timing must be right.

IMHO, this is the best way to change the belt. Using the marks appropriately, you can assure yourself that the old belt is in exactly the same (and also correct) positioning as the old belt. This guarantees proper timing.

BTW, the only reason for rotating the crank 720 is because it rotates the cam 360, bring the only factory markings back in line to compare with your drawn markings.

This makes sense to me now. Clever way of double checking. I guess you could bolt the pulley back on just to check. Just use two bolts, and don't torque'em too tight. But I'd have to agree with you, mark the pulley to the block for ease and accuracy.
 

BahimMKV

New member
Location
Dallas, Tx
Zach L This is a very helpful post, you have saved me quite some money on repair costs. I was wondering on how to change the camshaft seal since you did not mention it.
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
I have only replaced one timing belt myself before (00' AVH 2.0 Golf) so my technical background is limited, but I still am not sure I agree with you ZachL. I have a thought I'll try to explain below:

If the timing belt on the motor is off by even just one tooth, the timing is way out of whack.

Therefore, there is an exact number of teeth that MUST be on each side of the pulley system. That number is the same for the old, and replacement belt.

Therefore, if someone marks the old belt to the pulleys well, and transfers the marks to the new belt properly, doesn't rotate the pulleys at all, and then installs the new belt such that the marks line up perfectly to the pulleys, I don't see any way for the timing to be off. You've ensured that the same number of belt teeth are between the marks you made. Therefore, the timing must be right.

IMHO, this is the best way to change the belt. Using the marks appropriately, you can assure yourself that the old belt is in exactly the same (and also correct) positioning as the old belt. This guarantees proper timing.



This makes sense to me now. Clever way of double checking. I guess you could bolt the pulley back on just to check. Just use two bolts, and don't torque'em too tight. But I'd have to agree with you, mark the pulley to the block for ease and accuracy.

I see marking the gears as a non-optional must do. Yes, marking the belt is an additional step that would be helpful.

Whether you mark the belt before installation or just rotate the crank 720, finding out if your timing is off by a tooth is not the hard part. The hard part is physically putting the belt on the correct tooth. Refer back to me talking about slightly spinning the crank back counter-clockwise just a tad. BTW, even if marking the belt, I'd still go through the step of rotating the crank 720 as a fool-proof cautionary measure to make sure everything is timed.
 

Lsmaclea

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Allston MA
ZachL, I completely agree that marking the crank pulley to the block, and rotating the newly installed belt 720 degrees is a must. Using that approach, as well as a careful, methodical, belt to pulley marking system, you can "measure twice, cut once." Putting the new belt on such that the marks line up is a pain, and takes some elbow grease. But I'd be happy to struggle a bit to put the new belt on, if I knew the new belt was going back on with the right timing, the first time.

For anyone who wants to read a good explanation about marking the belts to the pulleys, have a look at:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...!-Pics-Inside!

This DIY is for a 2.0 8V motor, but the concept is the same, and the author gives a great explanation of the belt marking approach.
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
Thank you for this great DIY, Zach!
I'm a stealership hater and you saved me serious $. :)

Haha ...that's why I did it. Good to hear! :thumbsup:
 

stick

New member
Location
London
Anybody else have feedback on doing this job? This DIY is great, but it's always nice to have more inputs.


Hi all! Yes, I have some feedback on this job as I've just done one on a 2.0 turbo fsi. I found this thread when I was having trouble getting the engine mounting bracket out past the cambelt cover and inner wing. The op said it just comes out but the one I was working on didn't, and there was no way it would have without removing the battery and battery tray and then loosening off (but not removing) the three (18 mm) bolts on the engine mount which is below the battery. Once this is done the engine moves over just enough to get the mount on the cambelt side out, it's still a bit of a squeeze though.
I'm a mechanic and was trained by VW in the eighties and have done thousands of cam belts on most makes of car (some Alfa Romeos can be a bit 'challenging' :wink:)
I thought the op was very well done and anyone following it as a guide shouldn't go wrong. IMO the most important advice is turning the crank 2 revolutions after the new belts been fitted then checking the marks and the belt tension.
 
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