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DIY: 2.0T FSI Timing Belt Replacement for GTI/A3/Jetta

bowerhour4334

Ready to race!
Location
SoCal
Car(s)
MKV GTI
These clips for the charge air plumbing are very annoying. I currently am having issues with the connection from the charge air pipe and the hose that connects to the IC. Popped off while I was driving and had to lay on boiling asphalt to fix it. It seems like its in there solid now and won't pull out, but when I start to build boost it seems like there's a very small leak somewhere.
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
OP here - just got done doing the second timing belt on my own car this weekend. Car has 170,000 miles. First TB was done at 82,000 miles. There were two things I did this time that I hadn't done the first. First, I converted from the one-piece TB cover to the two-piece cover. Secondly, a installed a new thermostat and housing. I did not replace the front camshaft seal or the front crankshaft seal, as neither were leaking oil. I replaced almost every squeeze-type hose clamp I removed with a screw-type hose clamp. Some comments...

Two-piece TB Cover - I have some comparison pics I'll add to the first post later. The newer style 2 piece cover makes the job much easier IMO. Removing the engine bracket is one of the complaints I hear most from people that have done the job, and having the newer style TB cover makes it loads easier.

Thermostat and T-stat Housing - What a royal PITA! It took me longer to change the thermostat than the entire timing belt job. While I recommend changing the water pump every time you do a TB, changing a thermostat is not made any easier by doing it during the timing belt replacement. They are completely separate jobs that do not overlap. Also, thermostats typically have a longer life-span than timing belts so they need to be done less frequently. For that reason, only replace a thermostat when/if it fails, or if you were already doing some job that involved removing the intake manifold, such as cleaning your intake valves. Conveniently, my thermostat went out (partially stuck open) about 4,000 miles ago and I was already planning to clean my valves after doing the timing belt so it worked out nice. After removing the manifold, you must disconnect all the coolant hoses from the plastic thermostat housing, then remove two bolts that connect the housing to the engine block. For headache-free access to the two bolts, I removed the alternator. Since it's a good idea to clean your intake valves every 60,000 to 80,000 miles, I'd probably just do the thermostat every other cleaning. The code my car threw for the failed thermostat was P2181.

Camshaft Seal & Crankshaft Seal - While some timing belt kits come with a camshaft seal, I would not replace this unless you can visibly see some wet or shiny oil coming from that area. I just did my second TB and both of these seals are holding up just fine. I always have the seals ready, but will not use them. You will never get a seal as tight as from the factory, so do not replace unless necessary. Regarding these seals... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Also completely unrelated, I replaced my fuel hard lines on the manifold to allow a banjo bolt to bamboo fitting conversion for my HPFP. Also did a HPFP stud conversion and replaced the N80 purge valve. Did my second valve cleaning at 170,000 miles. First cleaning was done at 60,000. The valves were much much cleaner compared to when I did the first cleaning, even though I drove more miles before this cleaning - thanks to the exhaust-routed PCV. And there was absolutely no oil that poured out of my intercooler piping, as is always the case when I do valve cleanings on other cars. Tomorrow I'm doing the timing chain and tensioner job for the first time.

-Zach
 

bowerhour4334

Ready to race!
Location
SoCal
Car(s)
MKV GTI
After just doing it this weekend a few things I wish i had done differently is mainly hoisting the engine up and more towards the front of the car. I feel like i wouldve been able to get the motor mount out a lot easier. Also make sure to check and double check your charge air piping. I had a hose pop off twice because I had failed to secure it properly. Also BE CAREFUL WITH THE DRIVE PULLEY BOLTS. I had to drill one out. Not fun and it takes a lot of extra time.
 

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Tomorrow I'm doing the timing chain and tensioner job for the first time.

Thanks for this thread, I used it a couple months ago with success.

I too will be looking into a new chain and tensioner in the near future, as I've had the cold start rattle since new, and it seems to be happening more frequently lately as I near 100k miles. Do you have the cam locking tool and #10 polydrive?
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for this thread, I used it a couple months ago with success.

I too will be looking into a new chain and tensioner in the near future, as I've had the cold start rattle since new, and it seems to be happening more frequently lately as I near 100k miles. Do you have the cam locking tool and #10 polydrive?
Yeah I have the tools available. It's one of the sets from the Vortex "rental" program. Basically everyone is buying it for $100 shipped, then sell it when you're done so we're only paying for shipping. PM me if you want them. I'll include the pin used to lock the your current tensioner in it's compressed position while you remove the chain. And always replace the main cam adjuster bolt with a new one.

In addition to the cam locking plate and Polydrive bit, make sure you have a T30 Torx bit with a narrow 1/4" drive socket base - it has to be small enough to get the very bottom bolt of the cam chain housing. Alternatively you could use one with a bigger base as long as it had a long-reach shaft that was more than about 4 inches long. You'll also encounter T25 Torx and a couple M5 Triple Squares <----- pretty rare size but you can get they come in sets you can get on eBay. My original valve cover gasket cracked so it'd be a good idea to have one of those in addition to the chain housing gasket.

After you install the cam locking plate, there is still a bit of "slope", meaning the cams can still rotate just a tad in either direction. Therefore, once you remove the original chain, the intake cam will rotate forward, probably due to valve spring pressure from one of the cylinders. You'll want a second person there to rotate the intake cam into proper position while you apply the new chain. I used an open-ended wrench that fit snugly into the slot on the intake cam lobe, then stuck an extension through the closed end. It may sound complicated, but once you get in there you'll see it's not.



 
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Josh_R

New member
Location
Akron, Ohio
Car(s)
MKV GTI
Thanks for the detailed DIY. I'm new to VWs and it helped immensely.

I broke up the TB/ water pump change into two days to fit around my work schedule and it took about seven hours total. Everything went pretty smooth with the exception of the motor mount bracket being a bitch to remove. Everything looked good until I got about three miles down the road and it threw up a CEL :(
P0016. Looks like I must have been off by a hair on the timing. The car runs pretty much fine, but it doesn't seem to have any boost. Parked it until I can redo the belt. I didn't use your "cheat" because I cranked it twice and everything looked just about perfect, but obviously not.
 

blackvento36

New member
Location
Easton, Pa
The car runs pretty much fine, but it doesn't seem to have any boost. Parked it until I can redo the belt. I didn't use your "cheat" because I cranked it twice and everything looked just about perfect, but obviously not.

I know it's a couple months old, but I 'm guessing you snapped the one plastic hose barb off N75 valve. I did it myself while wrestling the engine mount bracket out. I repaired it with loctite (409 I think?), it's like super glue but seems to hold alot better.

Good write up but a couple things woulda saved me a bunch of time. Definately disconnect fuel lines and pull the box cover out. Theyre all quick disconnect and come out very easily. Also pulling the two torque mount bolts out of the transmission allows you to get the engine up another couple inches.

I also don't really understand all the marking everything. I've done many VW timing belts and I only ever put a dab of paint on marks that are already there from the factory to make them easier to see. There is a mark on the metal cover that sits in back of the crank pulley that lines up with a notch on back/top of the balancer/pulley, that is your crank mark. It's easy to miss if you don't know it's there. As long as that and the cam marks line up after two rotations it's "on time". If it's off a tooth ya slip the belt off the cam sprocket and swing it whitchever way it needs to go then rotate again,

I never mark the belt cuz I won't assume that the timing was correct to begin with. Most newer VWs will run decent off 1 tooth, the ECU will adjust somewhat and you may never notice. This car I bought new so I know nobody has ever played with the timing belt, but I still always put everything back to factory markings
 

White Beast

New member
Location
Sydney Australia
Daughter has just bought a MKV Golf Gti with the AXX engine and was ineed of a timing belt. Car done 92,500Km's.
As her dad and qualified mechanic I got roped into the replacement. So I did some googling and found this post and what a god send this was.
Wanted to say very helpful and even down to the 6 bolts in the balancer that were not easy to remove. 2 came out with an impact driver and the others it would not move just rounded off the heads. Drilled most the head off and then hammer and chisel to knock them round and voila them came loose (new ones already purchased thanks to this post.)
The engine mounting proved to be testing too just like you said but all was good. Replaced the timing belt, water pump and thermostat all in about 6 hours including the bolts in the balancer problem too
I just wanted to say thank you for posting this as it's awesome and where would we be today without google?
Have a great day everyone :smile:

I have attached an image of the balancer bolts.
 

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Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
Daughter has just bought a MKV Golf Gti with the AXX engine and was ineed of a timing belt. Car done 92,500Km's.
As her dad and qualified mechanic I got roped into the replacement. So I did some googling and found this post and what a god send this was.
Wanted to say very helpful and even down to the 6 bolts in the balancer that were not easy to remove. 2 came out with an impact driver and the others it would not move just rounded off the heads. Drilled most the head off and then hammer and chisel to knock them round and voila them came loose (new ones already purchased thanks to this post.)
The engine mounting proved to be testing too just like you said but all was good. Replaced the timing belt, water pump and thermostat all in about 6 hours including the bolts in the balancer problem too
I just wanted to say thank you for posting this as it's awesome and where would we be today without google?
Have a great day everyone :smile:
Glad it helped. I'm just a regular guy working in my garage too. I just ask that if you work on your car and don't find a DIY for what you're doing, make a DIY on this site! Thanks! :biggrin:

Yeah this is a good DIY. I used it the other day and everything was super easy.
Thanks! :smile:
 

White Beast

New member
Location
Sydney Australia
Glad it helped. I'm just a regular guy working in my garage too. I just ask that if you work on your car and don't find a DIY for what you're doing, make a DIY on this site! Thanks! :biggrin:

Thanks! :smile:

No worries will do as I'm sure there will be more items to sort in the future :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the write up, it went step by step perfectly. Just took some time, some cursing and a few beers with friends. I just bought the car with 125k miles on it. I don't know if it had ever been done before. Everything looked untouched. It did have the 2 piece cover though. Did these come stock with the 2 piece?
 

Zach L

VR junkie
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for the write up, it went step by step perfectly. Just took some time, some cursing and a few beers with friends. I just bought the car with 125k miles on it. I don't know if it had ever been done before. Everything looked untouched. It did have the 2 piece cover though. Did these come stock with the 2 piece?
Glad it helped, and good choice being safe rather than sorry later on.

They came stock with both cover versions. The 2 piece cover is the later version, and makes the job MUCH easier in my opinion. I believe the switch to the new cover version was sometime in late 2006 or early 2007. I swapped to the 2 piece cover when I did my second timing belt.



 
Last edited:

sh00k0nes pt. 2

Ready to race!
Location
DFDUBS
What is this exhaust routed pcv you speak of? And how do you do it?
OP here - just got done doing the second timing belt on my own car this weekend. Car has 170,000 miles. First TB was done at 82,000 miles. There were two things I did this time that I hadn't done the first. First, I converted from the one-piece TB cover to the two-piece cover. Secondly, a installed a new thermostat and housing. I did not replace the front camshaft seal or the front crankshaft seal, as neither were leaking oil. I replaced almost every squeeze-type hose clamp I removed with a screw-type hose clamp. Some comments...

Two-piece TB Cover - I have some comparison pics I'll add to the first post later. The newer style 2 piece cover makes the job much easier IMO. Removing the engine bracket is one of the complaints I hear most from people that have done the job, and having the newer style TB cover makes it loads easier.

Thermostat and T-stat Housing - What a royal PITA! It took me longer to change the thermostat than the entire timing belt job. While I recommend changing the water pump every time you do a TB, changing a thermostat is not made any easier by doing it during the timing belt replacement. They are completely separate jobs that do not overlap. Also, thermostats typically have a longer life-span than timing belts so they need to be done less frequently. For that reason, only replace a thermostat when/if it fails, or if you were already doing some job that involved removing the intake manifold, such as cleaning your intake valves. Conveniently, my thermostat went out (partially stuck open) about 4,000 miles ago and I was already planning to clean my valves after doing the timing belt so it worked out nice. After removing the manifold, you must disconnect all the coolant hoses from the plastic thermostat housing, then remove two bolts that connect the housing to the engine block. For headache-free access to the two bolts, I removed the alternator. Since it's a good idea to clean your intake valves every 60,000 to 80,000 miles, I'd probably just do the thermostat every other cleaning. The code my car threw for the failed thermostat was P2181.

Camshaft Seal & Crankshaft Seal - While some timing belt kits come with a camshaft seal, I would not replace this unless you can visibly see some wet or shiny oil coming from that area. I just did my second TB and both of these seals are holding up just fine. I always have the seals ready, but will not use them. You will never get a seal as tight as from the factory, so do not replace unless necessary. Regarding these seals... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Also completely unrelated, I replaced my fuel hard lines on the manifold to allow a banjo bolt to bamboo fitting conversion for my HPFP. Also did a HPFP stud conversion and replaced the N80 purge valve. Did my second valve cleaning at 170,000 miles. First cleaning was done at 60,000. The valves were much much cleaner compared to when I did the first cleaning, even though I drove more miles before this cleaning - thanks to the exhaust-routed PCV. And there was absolutely no oil that poured out of my intercooler piping, as is always the case when I do valve cleanings on other cars. Tomorrow I'm doing the timing chain and tensioner job for the first time.

-Zach
 
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