Appreciate the tip. I'd have to go out and buy a 27mm socket. And I would still need to remove the stuck bolt to move the support bracket to the "new" turbo. But removing the CV axle and dropping the turbo would give me more room to work on the stuck bolt. I'll keep trying to remove the bolt in situ, but if I can't get it within the next day or two, I'll try removing the CV axle.Sorry to hear that, did you found a way to get the bolt out? You can remove the CV axle without stepping on the brakes, you just need to jam a screw driver in the vents of the brake disc to prevent the axle from turning. You could also put the car in gear, it's just much faster being two.
Before running out to buy that 27mm socket, I decided to try your suggestions. Neither jamming a screwdriver in the brake disc vents (even a very long one) nor putting the car in "D" arrests the CV axle. It looks to be a two-person job for sure with one person standing on the brakes. It's also looking more and more like cutting the bracket is my only option.Sorry to hear that, did you found a way to get the bolt out? You can remove the CV axle without stepping on the brakes, you just need to jam a screw driver in the vents of the brake disc to prevent the axle from turning. You could also put the car in gear, it's just much faster being two.
Sorry for the delay in responding. We were on holiday here in the states. Neither D nor P arrests the CV axle on a DSG. However, sticking a screwdriver in the brake rotor vent right at the caliper does work.The idea is to jam the screw driver in the brake caliper so that it prevents the disc from turning, never did it myself but as I have to replace the CV boot that's what I found. As for the gear, D will not work but P should prevent the wheel from turning (but I would get a second advice if it's OK to do it with an auto, on a manual it's fine at least). Note that without an impact you should crack the axle bolt with the wheel on the ground (remove the center cap)
Thanks. I would be in more of a mood to celebrate if my car made it more than 2 miles before dying. Would a vacuum leak prevent a car from starting? That's where I am right now. I need to be able to start the car. Getting it back to top performance is something I can work on over time. I know my MAP and TB are still fouled from the blown turbo, but these wouldn't prevent a car from starting.Congrats for the installation of the turbo! I would investigate system too lean first, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere. Did you check the fuel trims (LTFT) to see how bad it is? Are the misfires on a specific cylinder or all of them? The good thing is that apparently you took care of the oil consumption issue. If you find a vacuum leak, repair it and delete all the DTCs then (which will reset fuels trims also).
It's as I described in post #22. It's the same sound as you get when you do a compression test with the plugs removed. It's as if there is no spark at all. At this point I feel like it has to be the CPS. There's nothing else that controls spark. Plus it died on a hill. In the cold. AND my tach was jumping around like crazy on first startup. All these are classic bad CPS symptoms.Is this car running now or is it turning over like if the plugs are removed and spinning fast than usual not firing up.
Thanks. I did not know that. I have a backup N80. I'll throw it on if the new CPS doesn't fix it.Yes a vacuum leak can prevent the car from starting, happened to me when my N80 was stuck open, it took several tries to start the car. Not sure about the turbo revision but it will not prevent the car to start for sure.