Autotech hpfp failure with pics

[ROH ECHT]

I wish I had just gone with APR. I need new tires soon (and wheels to accompany them) and I don't wanna dish out $1000 on another pump

I would try IE's product and rebuild it yourself. I believe it is $450usd...I only let APR rebuild mine because they wouldn't let me do it for le$$. I personally would restrict myself where the tires and wheels are concerned and get the pump proper by running a lower rated tire for a couple of years and skip the wheels for now.

What are you looking at for a tire-wheel package?

 

[ROH ECHT]

My experience with Autotech:
Autotech is going to question whether or not you replaced the A-version intake cam before installing the hpfp...or at least confirmed that you do have a B-version cam...then prove it. Then, if that doesn't apply, they will find something else to use to deny helping you out with a replacement upgrade. Trust me...no one has gotten anywhere with Autotech with regards to warranty or guarantee if it even exists.

All one can do is:
Start with a new internal kit from another maker like IE or have APR rebuild yours if it is in good nick. Still going to run you $500+. Otherwise, you can just get a new oem hpfp and de-tune it until you can make your move on it again.

 

[gbkoen01]

I have IE pump, built it myself. Just took the pump apart again today. inspected the internals and everything looks fine, I even lubed it up with a dab of oil. Added fuel injector cleaner to a new tank of 93. Pulls a little smoother and I can go wot in some gears like 3rd and 4th however in 5th and 6th whenever i push it to the floor it'll cut and boost will flutter between 20 and like 3 psi. I think its a fuel filter problem, gonna change that asap.

probably vmr with toyo proxies. I have rattle canned gold denvers with all season Yokohama currently :smile:

 

[ROH ECHT]

whenever i push it to the floor it'll cut and boost will flutter between 20 and like 3 psi. I think its a fuel filter problem, gonna change that asap.

Do you feel the power drop when boost drops on your gauge? If you do, and there are no codes, it is more likely going to be a coil going bad if the spark plugs are fine. Purchase 4 new coils and begin sapping them out...only, do one at a time followed by doing a pull until it is eliminated. When you have replaced the one that made it better...you can replace the new ones with the old coils to find out if you needed those or if it was just the last one that fixed it that was required at this time. You'll have spare coils, but you will likely be in need of them at some time in the future. They do affect performance when going out without giving a code and mostly when running it hard is when that which you described happens.

If you do not feel anything...it is more likely to be your gauge or N75, etc..

 

[gti2slow]

I wish I had just gone with APR.

I bought a pump from APR and had a APR dealer install it and still had issues.

Never going to be a APR customer again at this point.

 

[ROH ECHT]

Personal experience is a strong determining factor. Each company has their failures and successes. I never wanted any APR products, but at the time of my Autotech HPFP upgrade and shortly thereafter failure...the choices were APR, Autotech, and KMD and two of these were having many failures and the other was APR :frown:

I would try IE's if my APR should fail or get destroyed :thumbsup:

 

[gbkoen01]

check engine reads fuel pressure regulator to performance. Huge loss of power. I changed coil pack and plugs a few months ago. I bought new fuel filter, plugs (changed plugs no difference), and I ordered a forge wastegate. And motor/trans mounts just because.

 

[gbkoen01]

I think it has to be the wastegate as one of my friends with a mk4 had a similar issue. Weird that I get a check engine light for fuel and it's really more of a boost problem. Well actuator problem. And yes it has to be actuator cause I'm up to date on all my other boost components (dv and pcv etc). Come to think of it I did get a code a few weeks ago for under boost but I cleared it and it never came back. But I'm pretty sure I found the source of my problem. I'll have her fast again in a week or so

 

[clockwise33]

After much searching of this and other forums I found one example of a IE HPFP failure. I also noticed he was operating at 150 bar which could have had something to do with his issue.

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191936

I'm going to go ahead and install mine within about a week so I will be another IE HPFP data point going forward.

 

[Finder]

I installed the Autotech kit in my existing pump and ran it for 50,000km when I decided to buy a brand new OEM pump and transfer the Autotech internals into this one. I've put another 35,000km on it since then.
Maybe they had some issues with the early models but mine is still going strong.

 

[af09808]

I run a apr one not the rebuild one but the one were u can buy the whole new unit and have not had a problem with it at all.

 

[Dumbhorsepoweradiction]

Brand New hpfp ! Autotech upgrade install by myself ! 12K miles later still running same cf ! Starts showing some wear tho!:thumbsup:

 

[gbkoen01]

Just thought I would update you all: tried fixing everything other than the fuel pump with no luck. Took the car to my tuner at apr to run pressure tests (also to get some body work done but that's beside the point). He had an apr pump in the shop and went ahead and swapped it with mine and it idled at 10 bar higher than the IE. problem solved. Long story short, buy the apr pump or rebuild a brand new one, it'll save you time and money in the long run. My IE internals only lasted for about 3 or 4 months.

 

[gti2slow]

Did you contact IE at all?

 

[gbkoen01]

I'm going to when I get the car back, still getting some paint correction done and fenders rolled