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Anyone successfully modify their own R32 or TT-RS LPFP for FWD use?

I'm curious because my LPFP is on it's way out. I need to buy a new one soon.

The R32 pump is about $50 cheaper than the current GTI pump. Unsure on the TT-RS pump.

I'm aware that there's a hose to remove and a port to seal.

Anyone other than USP do this at home with good results?
 

Juggern@ut

Yezus Krys
Location
Clarksville, TN
Car(s)
GTi MKV
There was a thread on this but I can't find it now.

On 1stvwparts.com the TTR-S pump was about $200 if you care to check them out.


IG: @YezusKrys
 
yeah there is the big USP pump thread but i think one guy vaguely may have said that he modified a pump his own self.
 
yeah, bunnspeed ran into some issues, but those were largely rust and no-tools related
 

Juggern@ut

Yezus Krys
Location
Clarksville, TN
Car(s)
GTi MKV
I bought a USP a few weeks ago. I was gonna just do the mod since it'd be less than half the price but meh.








IG: @YezusKrys
 
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Screw it. Just dropped $220 on the Rev. DB pump from 1stvwparts.
 
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Bunnspeed

Salad Tosser
Location
MA
Car(s)
2008 GTI four door
Screw it. Just dropped $220 on the Rev. DB pump from 1stvwparts.

You'll probably be happier that way. My R32 pump cost like $180 plus I needed an additional plug, so say $190ish altogether, so it wasn't significantly cheaper. The rev DB should be more than enough to cover you up to and including an F23T upgrade. Plus you won't have to worry about custom tuning to get it to flow right (I'm not sure that the R32 is completely plug n play with regards to OTS tunes).

I'd check the condition of your lock ring and replace it if it isn't flawless (it's like a $5 part), and get ahold of the specialty tool and a fresh gasket before attempting the pump swap. If your lock ring is rusty like mine was, it'll be a total bitchwhore to install, and you'll leak like an incontinent old lady if your gasket is dry and flattened like mine was.

To answer your original question though, my R32 pump only required a factory fuel line plug for the crossover tube but didn't require any additional mechanical modification to install it in place of the original lpfp.
 
The lock ring was a-ok when i installed this pump last june. Surprising given the amount of mag-chlor they dump on the roads out here.

I bought a new gasket to go with it, because i've been throwing a 'small evap leak' code for a couple months and i already ruled out the gas cap.

I almost bought the N80 valve, hoses, and hose clamps too. But I'm also trying to rebuild a 1984 jetta coupe diesel, and i might need to bore out the block and get bigger pistons.

The proper tool - would love to use it but i don't need it.
 
Just installed my Rev. DB and ran the basic settings.

adaptation value is -200something instead of near +1000.

Old pump assembly does look as though the pump itself can be extracted and replaced. Could be interesting. The sock on the pickup tube is way filthy tho.

fwiw my new rev. DB LPFP is Continental branded. This means that the VEMO and Meyle pumps sold by ECS are not remotely the same thing, though there is a chance that they are within spec. I have to advise against buying VDO branded pumps from non-dealer sources because the one i bought (and returned) had all the numbers scraped off of the top, and the box it came in had a part number that corresponded to a pump for a 1.4L engine that uses a 4-bar regulator in the fuel fulter. So perhaps incapable of the 6.6 bars a GTI needs.
 
huh, that's cheaper than the Rev. DB too.
 
Location
Pikeville, KY
Car(s)
Subaru
Great, do i need to replace the controller with the TTRS one ... ?

no. it plugs right in, but to take advantage of it, yes. you throw an r32 pump in with the stock controller, it will say the pump is working at 60-80% (pretty much past 70% means the pump is bad), but its actually okay to use. :thumbsup:
 
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