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Aftermarket Amp - Ground Loop diagnosis?

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
Hi,

I just installed an aftermarket amp and it often outputs a 40-60Hz tone, typically when car is unlocked but ignition not on, or after car is locked, or when the audio test is run (such as when 5F is scanned during a VCDS scan). It happens often but not always, but when it's stuck transmitting the tone switching on some audio/music won't get it to stop. However if I start the car and turn on the radio and it hasn't gotten stuck humming, the output is clean (only transmits signal from music, tone is gone).

Details:

Amp: Alpine KTA-200m, +12v from spare fuse in fusebox, grounded to the pass side trunk ground stud (also tried grounding to rear seatbelt bolt, tone was exactly the same). Do I need to ground it to the same grounding point that the MIB uses? Most people running aftermarket amps just bolt it to the chassis near the amp, haven't seen anyone needing to do this.

Input: rear parcel shelf subwoofer (original sub is unplugged). I've tried measuring the amp signal in for the signs of the tone but haven't been able to see it there, maybe too weak for my voltmeter.

+12V Trigger: power wire going to rear camera module, seems to switch on with MIB.

Low-pass set to default 120Hz, gain to middle.

Any ideas? My only other piece of aftermarket wiring is an RS3 LPFP + controller which is grounded near the rear seats, any way that's causing a ground loop?
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
Sounds as if MMI does a speaker check on startup by measuring the resistance of each channel and if it doesn't measure the expected resistance it sends a continuous signal along the channel leads until something's hooked up. Maybe now that the amp is hooked up to that channel the MMI doesn't sense the original sub and continues pinging it, which the amp amplifies and produces a hum?
 

carbon_gecko

Go Kart Champion
Location
texas
Car(s)
2016 GOLf tsi 'S'
I have the same issue: amp ground loop, the three things people are telling me are:
1. Check your amp ground, it should be same size as your power, ensure it completely grounds to the chassis.
2. Check your vehicles battery ground, if it's failing, the amp ground might be creating a back draw.
3. Ensure you are not grounding out your amp to the chassis by isolating it using a rack of some sort.
 
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