Stranded in Daytona
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
- Car(s)
- 06 2 door TR GTI
The best way is to just go and buy what's called "The Magic Eraser" they sell it at auto shops... just rub the black plastic and it comes off.
V
A Professional's Guide to Detailing
- Thread starter Stranded in Daytona
- Start date
BoostedThrills
showshinedetail.com
- Location
- Framingham, Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- G35
Turtle Wax ICE Paste does wonders on the exterior black plastics, even if there's white residue from other waxes on it...that's solely what I use this product for.
I noticed a few older comments about the process after claying .....
Never put your LSP (last step product) on directly after drying a clayed surface.
Always wash it after clay as clay leaves behind oils that will reduce the effectiveness of any sealant/wax you apply.
Also, with clay, especially on dark colours you will often get light marring - almost impossible to avoid
I tend to do use Menzerna 106FF on a finishing pad on my Random orbital to remove the marks, followed by a wash and then dry.
I then apply my product of choice for the LSP (usually Optimum Opti Seal and Optimum Car Wax, because they are easy and last). Superior to Megs type products
For drying, buy a quality Waffle Weave Drying Towel - microfibre technology and designed for drying. Far better than towelling. I use Aquatouch branded WWDT's
Never put your LSP (last step product) on directly after drying a clayed surface.
Always wash it after clay as clay leaves behind oils that will reduce the effectiveness of any sealant/wax you apply.
Also, with clay, especially on dark colours you will often get light marring - almost impossible to avoid
I tend to do use Menzerna 106FF on a finishing pad on my Random orbital to remove the marks, followed by a wash and then dry.
I then apply my product of choice for the LSP (usually Optimum Opti Seal and Optimum Car Wax, because they are easy and last). Superior to Megs type products
For drying, buy a quality Waffle Weave Drying Towel - microfibre technology and designed for drying. Far better than towelling. I use Aquatouch branded WWDT's
billyblooshoes
Ready to race!
- Location
- Doylestown, PA
what, no three step polish?
(joking)
(joking)
carchrism5
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- CT
- Car(s)
- GTI
wow, way to bring it back, but im glad u did, cuz i havent seen this before, why isnt this a sticky?
LeesburgMKV
gold n' black
- Location
- VA
- Car(s)
- 2008 VW GTI
sticky
toproy
Ricer hunter
- Location
- Richardson TX
- Car(s)
- 2009 VW GTI
Ive read all this thread which is very informative by the way.
I have been using Meguiars in all my cars for many years. I also use Zymol once a year.
Anyway, something that has not been mentioned and seems common sense but I am sure it wont hurt to mention it.
Remove any jewerly, rings, watches. Do not wear clothes with metal features like Levis with metal buttons or baggie pants with any metal part like zippers etc.
No buckles.
If possible, use something like a pajama or an overall. Make sure your clothes are as clean as the towels you are using to detail. Your body will invariably get in contact with the car and if you have dirt or any feature in your clothing that could scratch it... you will!
Also, always start with a clean garage. When the humidity of your car increases due to the wash, if you have any saw dust, or dust in the garage, this will become airborne and stick to your wax, towels, and paint and then you will rub it in when you wax or clean.
I have been using Meguiars in all my cars for many years. I also use Zymol once a year.
Anyway, something that has not been mentioned and seems common sense but I am sure it wont hurt to mention it.
Remove any jewerly, rings, watches. Do not wear clothes with metal features like Levis with metal buttons or baggie pants with any metal part like zippers etc.
No buckles.
If possible, use something like a pajama or an overall. Make sure your clothes are as clean as the towels you are using to detail. Your body will invariably get in contact with the car and if you have dirt or any feature in your clothing that could scratch it... you will!
Also, always start with a clean garage. When the humidity of your car increases due to the wash, if you have any saw dust, or dust in the garage, this will become airborne and stick to your wax, towels, and paint and then you will rub it in when you wax or clean.
Volkswagging
Don't Hate, Inseminate
- Location
- Orange County
I'd like to know this as well.
g60_corrado_91
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- IL
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
As far as stains go or just normal cleaning? I just use Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer for the seats and everything else inside. But I haven't really had to deal with stains either. At work we'd probably use some of that Orange 88 diluted with water and a towel.
saucer
Leadfoot
- Location
- Asheville NC
- Car(s)
- 08 GTI
Anyone have any tips for getting wax off of the unpainted textured valence? Will a clay bar pull it off?
I've tried scrubbing with a toothbrush, but the wax just keeps coming back white...
I've tried scrubbing with a toothbrush, but the wax just keeps coming back white...
g60_corrado_91
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- IL
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
I've heard an eraser works, but I've never tried it for myself so I can't say for sure.
I used simple green with a toothbrush. You can try some 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water mixture. Follow with a good dressing and you should be fine.
This is a good beginners detailing post, but it certainly has some important spots left out. Not sure if this was noted previously, but you shouldn't use windex on tinted windows. If you like permanently hazy windows be my guest. Use something ammonia free, I use Eagle 1 20/20 glass cleaner.
Properly, and professionally, (or at least at a pro-sumer level) detailing your vehicle should involve a little more paint preparation than wash, clay bar, and wax. Swirl marks and light scratches, especially apparent on colors such as Black Magic, should be treated prior to waxing with a polish.
Naturally, all this information cannot be captured in a post like this in an organized manner. I would suggest taking this basic info into consideration, and visiting detailing oriented websites/forums if you wish to learn more. I was suprised to learn how many things, in the many years of detailing I've served, that I could improve with simple changes in my detailing process.
This is a good beginners detailing post, but it certainly has some important spots left out. Not sure if this was noted previously, but you shouldn't use windex on tinted windows. If you like permanently hazy windows be my guest. Use something ammonia free, I use Eagle 1 20/20 glass cleaner.
Properly, and professionally, (or at least at a pro-sumer level) detailing your vehicle should involve a little more paint preparation than wash, clay bar, and wax. Swirl marks and light scratches, especially apparent on colors such as Black Magic, should be treated prior to waxing with a polish.
Naturally, all this information cannot be captured in a post like this in an organized manner. I would suggest taking this basic info into consideration, and visiting detailing oriented websites/forums if you wish to learn more. I was suprised to learn how many things, in the many years of detailing I've served, that I could improve with simple changes in my detailing process.
FliGi7
Ready to race!
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
Creamy peanut butter. Not joking. Rub it on/in, let it sit for about 5 and wipe it off.
FliGi7
Ready to race!
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
There are actually a lot of things I disagree with in the OP of this thread. Instead of referencing them all, I'll just point to a DIY I wrote up a while back and you can take what you will from it (or not).
http://forums.jettamkv.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1795
http://forums.jettamkv.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1795