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3D Printer & C.A.D. Thread

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Thats looking pretty good!

Depending on neat you want that seam to look you could join the using some quick-set epoxy (the kind that drys within 5 minutes) or you can use something like a soldering iron and just run that over the seam to melt and smooth the seam. That second option wouldn't create as strong of a hold but it will look neater.

I would be curious to see how those hold up to the wind at high speeds. I assume you had to print at 100% infill?
 

yakboyslim

Go Kart Champion
Very little infill right now (like 20%), but 3-4 walls with a 0.6 mm nozzle. The only thing I'm worried about flexing or breaking is that middle seam, but I'm hoping I can come up with something for that.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Very little infill right now (like 20%), but 3-4 walls with a 0.6 mm nozzle. The only thing I'm worried about flexing or breaking is that middle seam, but I'm hoping I can come up with something for that.
I'm sorry to sound like a broken record BUT.....

applying a composite over the project (doesn't have to be CF, fiberglass might work just as well) will solve the issue by joining the middle seam, smoothing out any seams/layer lines, and adding some strength to the piece overall.

The one thing I don't personally know is how fiberglass epoxy reacts with 3D printing plastics. I only mention that because when I'm working my CF epoxy I use plastic cups to mix the epoxy in, the one time I used a plastic cup to mix fiberglass epoxy it actually melted the cup. I did however have an issue with thermal runaway in that batch, though I've had exothermic issues before with my CF epoxy and it's never melted a cup.

Edit:

I should mention I'm in the middle of my own somewhat similar project which is why I think this will work. I'm currently printing the RS3 style brake air ducts that are floating around on thingiverse. I had to break up the duct itself into two pieces however I used glue to hold the two together, and then I will be covering the whole thing in scrape CF I've got to smooth out the layer lines and give the entire piece more strength.

20240315_221921_resized.jpg
 

yakboyslim

Go Kart Champion
I think CF skinning would be the best thing I could do surface finish wise, but I just don't know when I'm going to have time to learn a completely new skill. Based on past experience with fiberglass (decade ago) and wrapping things I can safely say it is not something I am naturally good at. Plus getting all the materials and making room for them in my messy garage, while I'm about to move in a few months. All that personal whining to say, totally agree - I'm just too lazy to do it.

Plus I actually don't mind a little bit of the "clearly self made" look. It's a track car, and I'm building my own aero it doesn't really bother me if people can tell.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Did my first oil change over the weekend. I used a flat screwdriver for the drain plug, but I guess there is a special tool. So I had my 10 y.o. print this for me. Next time I'll be prepared!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628671
Something to mention for the group. I noticed that printing this in PETG at 20% infill with tree supports uses about the same amount of filament and takes about as long as my calibration cubes, so I figured I would use these as calibration cubes and then just hand them out to VW bros randomly.

This past weekend I was doing my oil change and brought two of these with me, inserted one and it snapped instantly. Second did the same.

Moral of the story, don't print these at 20%. I'll be printing another one at 100%, that one should hold up, I guess we'll see in another 5,000 miles.
 

yakboyslim

Go Kart Champion
That reminds me, I had a small amount of PETG left on a roll, but not enough that I would trust starting something, so I printed a couple beds worth of pedal spacers. If anyone is interested message me. Just pay shipping (envelope, should cost nothing).

Plan to take them with me to any event I know VW folks will be at too.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
13 GTI & 98 Prelude
Something to mention for the group. I noticed that printing this in PETG at 20% infill with tree supports uses about the same amount of filament and takes about as long as my calibration cubes, so I figured I would use these as calibration cubes and then just hand them out to VW bros randomly.

This past weekend I was doing my oil change and brought two of these with me, inserted one and it snapped instantly. Second did the same.

Moral of the story, don't print these at 20%. I'll be printing another one at 100%, that one should hold up, I guess we'll see in another 5,000 miles.
I’d do 100% and 4 or 5 walls also.
 

yakboyslim

Go Kart Champion
Got two FDM printers (unheated bed, ender clones), a Orange 30 SLA printer, a laser engraver, a 3180 CNC mill and 12 kg of filament.

All for $60. Giant FB marketplace deal.

The Anycubic Mega Zero works fine but needs a new heater cables. I plan to keep it as a second machine for PLA/TPU.

The Xvico X3 needs a new Z axis shaft. I'm gonna give that to a friend who was interested in starting (once I get some good prints out of it)

I'll try the other machines as I go.

1000002800.jpg
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
13 GTI & 98 Prelude
Nice score!!
 
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