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Could be, but best way to find out would be to have the car scanned with VCDS or by a shop with appropriate tools to pull codes from the car's computer.

It's all plastic where the front PCV valve mounts to the valve cover so if you overtightened something that could be part of your problem. The only way to know for sure where the leak is coming from would be to smoke test the system at a shop. Better to do that than throw parts at the car, but...

See here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16556/P0172/000370 This one may be your best bet: https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/p0172-system-runs-to-rich.173039/

Did the problem start after you installed the gauge? Check your tap, the line, and connection at the gauge itself. Your fittings need to be tight to the point that they can withstand 10-25 psi (high end if you're tuned). These cars usually peak at 10-12 psi stock, then slowly drop off after...

With the addition of your boost gauge, the only charged line entering the cabin is the line for the gauge itself. Check it for tears or holes as those will create a boost leak and could explain the condition you described.

Might be useful: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19143/P2711/010001

It doesn't sound good. DSG or manual? If DSG and you get a flashing PRNDS on the MFD between the gauges right after it means there's a problem. You'll either need to scan the car yourself or take it to a shop that can do that for you to determine what code(s) it's throwing.

Nice! That'll do it.

It could be. Bad/poor fuel can cause trims to ride one way or the other too. I believe +20 is the threshold for a lean condition on the LTFT. If you have a boost gauge, where does it sit at idle once the engine is warmed up and the AC / heat is off? The vacuum line that feeds the brake...

Do you have a boost gauge? It could be a vacuum leak, but better to log data off the car or see where you sit at idle with a boost gauge. If there are no leaks, the engine is at operating temp, and the AC / heat is off you should be somewhere around 19 - 21 in/Hg. The vacuum line feeding the...

Any kind of auto upholestery shop would do. Fortunately, my local dealer has a guy who does it for them. I got my foam backed fabric from the Headliner Doctor years ago, but looks like they may have an eBay and Amazon storefront... https://www.ebay.com/str/headlinerdoctor...

Stiffer mounts introduce more NVH (noise, vibrations, and harmonics) since the stock mounts shed a lot of that with them being as soft as they are. Depending on the mileage of your car you may be due for new mounts regardless of whether you've been tuned or not. I would start with a dog bone...

Take a look at this thread. There's a link to an Audizine thread that talks about the cam... https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/p0089-fix.166309/ Could be your fuel filter (should replace every 40k or so). Hopefully not the cam.

I'm at 143k miles with a K04 that's been on the car for 30k miles. Only issue I have is clutch wear and cosmetic stuff. Have fun.

I haven't been under the car for a while, but your photos look like the bottom side of the turbo. It looks like this thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175410484604?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Up0_7WCDQTi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The second...

Nice! Wipers are easy. Headlights not cheap! If you're not tuned/modified I would recommend checking your cam follower every 25-30k miles. They will wear out and if you punch a hole in it, that means the HPFP is riding the cam lobe without protection from the follower. If that gets worn too...

Is the knock in the front, back, left, or right side of the vehicle? Noise from the front subframe is pretty common on the MKV since there's extra wiggle room to make assembly easier. You can usually expect to hear this when transitioning between reverse and drive or vice versa. At least...

Off the cuff, my mind goes to: Diverter valve (DV) which is attached to bottom of the turbo. Wastegate control valve (N75) which is located near the neck of the turbo inlet where the intake connects. A possible fuel supply issue, but I would rule out the first two before diving into that...

A few questions... Do you have any tools to scan codes from the car? That could help point you in the right direction. When changing the fuel pump, did you check and/or replace the cam follower? Do you know if the diverter valve (closed loop blow off valve) has been checked or replaced since...

The master tech that replaced my DSG a few years ago dropped it out of the car without removing the engine or subframe. I'm sure it's tight, but doable.