FS: New Aquamist HSF4 Water/Meth System

[Mk6Autobahn]

This kit has an option to hook up a level switch it looks like. Not sure if I want to use the wiper bottle or a separate one in the trunk. I don’t really need the trunk space anymore.

View attachment 194719

Yeah I was debating that as too, but I think I'm going for trunk mount. I'm just not super enthusiastic about ripping apart my hatch liner to mount anything but it looks inevitable.

Yes, I mean a nozzle into each intake runner. You can (and IMO should) modify the OEM manifold. The aftermarket manifolds seem to cause everyone a lot of problems and aren't necessary unless you're running a big turbo.

The Aquamist kit is a bit of PITA to install. It requires you to splice into the ECU wire harness for the install. Make sure you do a lot of research before starting the install!

Very interesting point about the aftermarket manifolds. Each tuner I've talked to said if possible, definitely go direct port injection through the oem manifold instead of the TB spacer, seems to respond a lot better that way. Also, I'd much rather take off the manifold than wrestle with those impossible-to-reinstall hoses on the TB.

 

[Grabbit]

Very interesting point about the aftermarket manifolds. Each tuner I've talked to said if possible, definitely go direct port injection through the oem manifold instead of the TB spacer, seems to respond a lot better that way.

How are people doing direct port setups on the OE manifold? Isnt one of the benefits from the TB install method that the ECU can read the lower IATs? I'm not familiar with these setups so any link or info is appreciated.

 

[Mk6Autobahn]

How are people doing direct port setups on the OE manifold? Isnt one of the benefits from the TB install method that the ECU can read the lower IATs? I'm not familiar with these setups so any link or info is appreciated.

It would be like this Link

The owner told me he takes brand new plastic manifolds and drills them, says it takes about 30mins. Then you attach the fittings/nozzles/hoses and you’re good to go.

The TB spacer will probably yield slightly lower IATs, but DPI is more efficient and will be far better for fueling/power.

Edit: One of the last things I was told is that single/dual nozzle setups with TB plates/spacers usually don’t distribute equally into the manifold. The DPI goes straight to the combustion chambers practically.

 

[Thumper]

It would be like this Link

The owner told me he takes brand new plastic manifolds and drills them, says it takes about 30mins. Then you attach the fittings/nozzles/hoses and you’re good to go.

The TB spacer will probably yield slightly lower IATs, but DPI is more efficient and will be far better for fueling/power.

Edit: One of the last things I was told is that single/dual nozzle setups with TB plates/spacers usually don’t distribute equally into the manifold. The DPI goes straight to the combustion chambers practically.

IIRC some people run both to get both benefits, but you have to be careful with nozzle sizing as you are obviously adding lots of mixture to the stream. I thought the BEST thing to do is a single nozzle in the turbo outlet right before the intercooler, and then run DPI. And of cours,e nothing fights carbon build up like DPI lol

 

[CowTownRacer]

How are people doing direct port setups on the OE manifold? Isnt one of the benefits from the TB install method that the ECU can read the lower IATs? I'm not familiar with these setups so any link or info is appreciated.

Most people run a dual nozzle setup. They will run 1 large injector pre-TB. This is to lower IATs. it usually is placed somewhere between the intercooler outlet and the lower part of the boost pipe. This gives the W/M enought time to atomize, which is what you want to lower IATs. Then you place either a nozzle in the TB plate or directly in the runners. These are generally for supplementing fuel (i.e., increasing octane) not for lowering IATs.

It would be like this Link

The owner told me he takes brand new plastic manifolds and drills them, says it takes about 30mins. Then you attach the fittings/nozzles/hoses and you’re good to go.

The TB spacer will probably yield slightly lower IATs, but DPI is more efficient and will be far better for fueling/power.

Edit: One of the last things I was told is that single/dual nozzle setups with TB plates/spacers usually don’t distribute equally into the manifold. The DPI goes straight to the combustion chambers practically.

There's a lot of info about it on the WMI info thread. It's a must read if you haven't already, but it is 200 pages or more. But basically, this is what it looks like on the OEM manifold with the HSF4 kit. This thread has the nicest implementation of the mod that I have seen. You'll notice he JB welded the adapters to the manifold runners, sanded them down, and repainted the manifold. Looks money. However, some folks say you shouldn't cut the plastic tab that runs down the middle of the runner because it provides support, and for those folks, I've seen them tap the runners slightly off center so there's no modification to that support piece. This setup isn't 100% ideal for spray dispersion, but it's still miles ahead of the throttle body plate (an actual ideal setup would probably have 2 smaller jets in the runners, one on top and one underneath).

 

[CowTownRacer]

IIRC some people run both to get both benefits, but you have to be careful with nozzle sizing as you are obviously adding lots of mixture to the stream. I thought the BEST thing to do is a single nozzle in the turbo outlet right before the intercooler, and then run DPI. And of cours,e nothing fights carbon build up like DPI lol

Careful here. Basically no one runs a nozzle pre-IC on these cars (there's a few people who do it or have done it, but very few from my research). The reason they don't do it is because W/M can pool in the IC and then eat away at the IC. Instead, most people will run a nozzle between the IC outlet and the TB to lower IATs and then run a nozzle or nozzles (if doing DPI) after the TB for octane.

 

[GIACUser]

I have run a number of water meth systems on several forced induction cars from Vortech supercharged built LS1, Audi 2.7t and my current GTI which I have owned since 2008. Since then car has undergone continual build up in power. At the K04 level I ran a 2 nozzle Snow system ( 2 x 225ml jets) spraying 50/50 distilled water and VP M1 (100% meth). One nozzle just past the bend in the intercooler exit hose and one in a TB spacer. This was enough to allow the running of a 100oct tune with 91oct fuel in gas tank. Ran that daily for several years with great results. Ran about 340whp which is good for an FSI motor. I can tell you from personal experience you can get great results from a simple setup if you just take a little bit of time to log and dial it in. Mine ran zero timing retard and pulled hard to redline.

My new setup is much more aggressive (480whp) and I now run an Aquamist System ( 5 nozzles ) with 4 direct into HPA intake manifold and one just off the intercooler. This time I am running 100 methanol. Car makes about 370ish on 91 and 480whp when we turn on the meth and run the more aggressive tune.

I run tanks and pump in back and vent the tanks to the outside which I recommend if you are going to put tank in the interior of car. Methanol is quite toxic, is highly volatile and has no odor.

 

[CowTownRacer]

I have run a number of water meth systems on several forced induction cars from Vortech supercharged built LS1, Audi 2.7t and my current GTI which I have owned since 2008. Since then car has undergone continual build up in power. At the K04 level I ran a 2 nozzle Snow system ( 2 x 225ml jets) spraying 50/50 distilled water and VP M1 (100% meth). One nozzle just past the bend in the intercooler exit hose and one in a TB spacer. This was enough to allow the running of a 100oct tune with 91oct fuel in gas tank. Ran that daily for several years with great results. Ran about 340whp which is good for an FSI motor. I can tell you from personal experience you can get great results from a simple setup if you just take a little bit of time to log and dial it in. Mine ran zero timing retard and pulled hard to redline.

My new setup is much more aggressive (480whp) and I now run an Aquamist System ( 5 nozzles ) with 4 direct into HPA intake manifold and one just off the intercooler. This time I am running 100 methanol. Car makes about 370ish on 91 and 480whp when we turn on the meth and run the more aggressive tune.

I run tanks and pump in back and vent the tanks to the outside which I recommend if you are going to put tank in the interior of car. Methanol is quite toxic, is highly volatile and has no odor.

Great response! This is the man to listen to. Very few folks have as much experience with w/m on this platform!

 

[Mk6Autobahn]

I have run a number of water meth systems on several forced induction cars from Vortech supercharged built LS1, Audi 2.7t and my current GTI which I have owned since 2008. Since then car has undergone continual build up in power. At the K04 level I ran a 2 nozzle Snow system ( 2 x 225ml jets) spraying 50/50 distilled water and VP M1 (100% meth). One nozzle just past the bend in the intercooler exit hose and one in a TB spacer. This was enough to allow the running of a 100oct tune with 91oct fuel in gas tank. Ran that daily for several years with great results. Ran about 340whp which is good for an FSI motor. I can tell you from personal experience you can get great results from a simple setup if you just take a little bit of time to log and dial it in. Mine ran zero timing retard and pulled hard to redline.

My new setup is much more aggressive (480whp) and I now run an Aquamist System ( 5 nozzles ) with 4 direct into HPA intake manifold and one just off the intercooler. This time I am running 100 methanol. Car makes about 370ish on 91 and 480whp when we turn on the meth and run the more aggressive tune.

I run tanks and pump in back and vent the tanks to the outside which I recommend if you are going to put tank in the interior of car. Methanol is quite toxic, is highly volatile and has no odor.

What’s your vent-to-exterior setup?

 

[brat_burner]

We need to make a separate thread here boys lol

 

[CowTownRacer]

What’s your vent-to-exterior setup?

With the aquamist system, most people use the vent cap that aquamist sells and then run the vent line out of the car.

 

[Mk6Autobahn]

With the aquamist system, most people use the vent cap that aquamist sells and then run the vent line out of the car.

Yeah I was trying to see where he runs it out tho. Like, did he just straight up pop a hole in the hatch sheet metal and call it a day?

 

[GolNat]

We need to make a separate thread here boys lol

FS thread turned into a supplemental WMI thread, me like.

Maybe a mod can change the title or merge it with another.

 

[GIACUser]

What’s your vent-to-exterior setup?

I have the 10L setup from Aquamist and it vents out the side and I run tube through a hole drilled to the outside in spare tire area. Just put a small filter on the end of it. If a tank doesn't have a vent you can just drill and tap the fill cap and run a tube from there.

 

[GIACUser]

Yeah I was trying to see where he runs it out tho. Like, did he just straight up pop a hole in the hatch sheet metal and call it a day?

Yes, as mentioned hole drilled, rubber grommet inserted and tube run to the outside. No other path to the outside in that part of the cabin.