24mm vs 26mm H&R RSB

[uberdot]

Any real functional difference for a “spirited” daily driver with occasional backroad & autoX weekend fun?

 

[jimlloyd40]

No

 

[uberdot]

Thanks for helping me make a decision to part with my money faster

 

[jimlloyd40]

I got a 24mm RSB and it made a huge difference. Had terrible understeer and now it's near neutral.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

If you plan to ever get a larger front sway bar go with the 26 rear.

if going from a 20mm stock to 24 mm makes a HUGE difference, I’m confused on the logic that 24 to 26 would not function differently lol.

as long as you are staying with a hollow 24 vs a hollow 26 opposed to say a solid 24 to a hollow 26, you will still see big difference in the characteristics when pushing the car hard.

 

[uberdot]

Sounds good. Ordered a 24mm H&R. Moog end links or re-use stock?

 

[swcrow]

Sounds good. Ordered a 24mm H&R. Moog end links or re-use stock?

Depends on mileage. I swapped mine out at 20k....no need to replace, but I get logic of "while under there...."

 

[Supercrumpet]

Sounds good. Ordered a 24mm H&R. Moog end links or re-use stock?

Seconding @swcrow, I replaced mine at around 8K since it's minimal extra effort and you may as well upgrade from the plastic OEM ones.

 

[Visceral]

I installed the 24mm H&R RSB with moog endlinks... couldn't be happier. Yep, its stiffer out back and you can feel it but nothing I would call objectionable. I painted the moog endlinks with some crinkle paint before the install as they are bare metal and wanted to keep things looking good down-below.

 

[uberdot]

I painted the moog endlinks with some crinkle paint before the install as they are bare metal and wanted to keep things looking good down-below.

Ah yes the Brazilian GTI undercarriage treatment

 

[uberdot]

For anyone looking for said end links who stumbles upon this thread, I found them super cheap:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/moog,K750809,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

 

[Tim2K20GTI]

I'm looking at getting a rear sway bar and see that the ST Suspension 25mm is about $100 cheaper than a comparable Neuspeed and H&R. It also has a 2 yr warranty as opposed to the 1 yr on the Neuspeed although the H&R comes with a lifetime warranty. Any reason to not save the $100?

 

[bentin]

Did someone find the 24mm much cheaper than the normal $270 or so for the 26mm? I'm just inclined to go with the 26mm, but I like oversteer, so even the 27mm Neuspeed is tempting. For some reason I've got a weird oversteer issue with my dumb split of Michelin A/S 3+ in front and A/S 4 in back. The 4's are new and hopefully just greasy, but it's a new issue and I'm not sure that I want to make it even worse by moving from stock to a 26mm without confirming that's all that I've got going on. My rattle canned Moogs from Rock Auto are just waiting for my indecisiveness to finally buy something.

 

[NopeR]

Get the biggest you can afford along with Moog endlinks.

 

[glitronic]

I have the Neuspeed Race 27mm hollow rear bar and think that's the best option out there for racing purposes. It's hollow, so lighter than a solid bar. It includes some nice support brackets to strengthen the C clamp/bushing attachment points. It has the tabs on the bar to prevent lateral movement, which is important to prevent the bar from moving left or right and colliding with your springs (definitely an issue with ECS endlinks). From the pictures, it doesn't appear that the H&R bar has those lateral movement limiting tabs. You can always add pipe clamp collars, though.

I wouldn't replace endlinks unless they are really old and are clunking. I've had too many problems with aftermarket endlinks, including Moog (a set on a daily driver Forester went bad within 10K of driving).
Rockauto is great for aftermarket OEM-grade parts like Moog and Mevotech endlinks:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...d,3308953,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

If you want to save some $ and don't need max oversteer for autox, etc, I'd go for the cheaper 25mm Suspension Techniques bar and reuse stock endlinks.

Make sure you have the proper triple-square bits to remove stock endlinks from the rear bar, and/or cutting implements if they strip (been there).