Gvazquez
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- North Carolina
Where are you finding light rotors for 370mm? I cant seem to find any with my ttrs brakes. The only option I have is stock and girodisc which cost 1k
7
Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)
- Thread starter GTIfan99
- Start date
alper
Ready to race!
- Location
- cloudy but not too cold
Haven't looked for 370mm options specifically, what I meant was that I could go as high as 370 as there are more options above 345mm that are at least not heavier than OEM 340mm rotors but they are also bigger.
I can quickly think of the REVO-Alcon BBK that offers 355mm fully floating rotors that are just 7kg, 362mm rotors from Vagbremtechnic in the UK at 8.3kg as well as other options in-between from the likes of MTEC and Compbrake. Once I finalized my rotor options I would adapt the plate accordingly.
Now that I think about it, there's no reason why my idea wouldn't work, essentially every BBK for the MQB includes the necessary adapters for the bigger rotor it comes with, so there must be space for the caliper to move towards the outside of the wheel.
They make those already. They're the RS3 calipers that work with 370mm rotors. They use the same pads.
alper
Ready to race!
- Location
- cloudy but not too cold
I know, but for some reason I find these around 40-50% more expensive than the Macan ones, even though they are both 4-pot Brembos of similar if not identical piston area (as they are a factory option on the MQB Leon Cupra (Golf clone in Europe) they can't differ too much/at all in total piston area?)
Plus it's not sure I want 370. I can accept 355 and 362 as well, then i will dimension the plate according to the rotors I end up with.
Essentially that's what all BBK do so should work right? I need to get the wheels out and confirm, just wondering if people with this setup have thought about this already.
vwlotech
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Lexington, KY
Great post, I tore the first boot I tried to remove on my brand new set, failure is how we learn. I went ahead and ordered the high temp kit, the calipers are out getting powder coated. everything is starting to come together.Alright... generally I followed the RacingBrake instructions (https://racingbrake.com/caliper-rebuild-instructions/), but here's the story anyway.
Here's where we started:
IMG_20200721_205034 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
This was my first attempt at putting some padding in the middle of the caliper for when you "eject" the pistons via compressed air. I'll say it was the first attempt... it was mostly the only attempt on the first caliper. If you've never done it before, the trick is that you want to loosen all the pistons simultaneously, because as soon as 1 is out, the pressure no longer helps. I didn't realize this at first, and the foam kneeling pad wasn't thick enough, so the first time I hit it with compressed air, one of the pistons popped out immediately, so I ended up having to get out the other 3 by hand.
IMG_20200721_205132 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
Oops...
IMG_20200721_211029 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
So... prying them out by hand... no fun, but doable.
IMG_20200721_220825 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
Here's the effects of 3 "short" track events on the dust boots. I say short, because these are SCCA Track Night in America events, so (3) 20 min sessions each... so total of ~3 hours of track time, 2 hours at Atlanta Motorsports Park, and 1 hour at Road Atlanta.
IMG_20200721_211041 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
So on the 2nd caliper, I went and found a couple of old strap pieces of 2x4. These were pretty well sized to block the pistons from coming all the way out with some use of several layers of cardboard. That worked much better. Of note, you will get brake fluid EVERYWHERE. It's a mess. Some of the dust boots got damaged more while I was removing them... the above picture is more representative of typical damage done via heat. The seals all seemed fine, fwiw. Everything pulled out:
IMG_20200721_220756 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
The RacingBrake dust boots say all over their website, and their installation website that the boots CANNOT touch any brake fluid, or the seals will self destruct, so I did a thorough cleaning of the calipers, pistons, and my work surface as they are damn expensive for some little pieces of silicone. Cleaned and wiped everything down with BrakeKleen, and then left everything to dry overnight just to make sure. I reinstalled my LCA's (just added the SuperPro caster bushings, and Proflex adjustable camber front bushings), and then called it a night. Next night, got back out after dinner and added the new caliper seals. After that, added a layer of Permatex Ultimate Brake Caliper grease behind the seals, per RacingBrake's instructions. RacingBrake also makes clear to not get any grease on the dust boots (fragile things, eh?), so changed gloves to avoid any issue, and started adding the boots to the pistons. No issues here, just took my time, and they slipped on with some mild encouragement.
IMG_20200722_201337 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
They actually all slid in with minimal effort. I was pleasantly surprised, but nothing binded and the boots fit great.
IMG_20200722_201746 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
Last thing.... earlier in the thread, I and at least one other person mentioned getting what appears to be 'leakage' at the bleeder valves. After reinstalling and bleeding everything with the help of my son on the brake pedal, I went back through and blotted the interior of the bleeder valves, and you actually get a surprising amount of fluid, so I believe this was the main cause of the "leaking".
IMG_20200722_220956 by Jesse Naughton, on Flickr
Anyway, went out and drove around to test both the brakes and the aforementioned suspension upgrades and make sure everything worked. No issues so far, but between wet roads and crazy alignment post tear down, I didn't do anything remotely silly. I was hoping to get lucky with an alignment today, but the shop I use was booked up until Tuesday, so I'm missing Road Atlanta tomorrow (Friday).
vwlotech
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Lexington, KY
Has anyone fitted an OEM set of the 19" Cadiz wheels over these? off topic question, but could you run the OEM front R calipers as a rear BBK with different rotors? flame away..lol
No one is going to flame you, but I doubt anyone can give you that answer, because no one has done it.
It's likely not necessary either. TCR cars use non-PP rears.
Aside from lighter 310mm rotors (if you're a PP/R car) and adjusting pad compounds to taste, there really isn't much reasonable you can do to the rear brakes on these cars that is going to increase performance like a front BBK. There is the Neuspeed 350mm rotor kit that you might want to check out, otherwise I wouldn't add weight there in search of performance.
https://neuspeed.com/collections/vo...d-2-piece-rear-brake-rotor-kit-350mm-991049br
https://neuspeed.com/collections/vo...d-2-piece-rear-brake-rotor-kit-350mm-991049br
vwlotech
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Lexington, KY
yeah, I was just curios. I've seen a few rear brake upgrade options out there and was thinking, now that I have the spare calipers... it would be mostly for bling and fear of sitting on them forever. Maybe something to look at down the road.
I cleaned up my PP fronts and sold them. I don't even think they'd look right on the rear and would really mess up bias.
Just sell them.
Charlotte.:R
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte
- Car(s)
- '18 Golf R 6MT
Yeah, I sold mine too. Although I think the Macan Brembo option has impacted the value of the PP setup on the second hand market.
I think there's still a market for PP. I sold mine on a local vw facebook group and included helping the new piece owner install them.
Escape Hatch
Autocross Champion
- Location
- USA
- Car(s)
- Mk7 GTI
They are Brembo after all...
jtsherri
New member
- Location
- Metro Detroit, MI
- Car(s)
- 2018 VW Golf R
Can anyone confirm they were able to get the following to work with OBDEleven? I was able to tweak the other two settings, but this one doesn’t seem to give me the necessary access:
“03 abs module Brake booster security code 25001. Factory setting 4, most use 2, I like 3. Edit, finally set this to 2. Feels much better.”
Any help is appreciated!
“03 abs module Brake booster security code 25001. Factory setting 4, most use 2, I like 3. Edit, finally set this to 2. Feels much better.”
Any help is appreciated!