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Want to order a j 1 or jb4. Which is for me?
- Thread starter Baltimore_mk7
- Start date
sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
If I was not such a cheapskate, I would get the JB4 with the Bluetooth connection. Being able to change to a stock map easily would be nice if you wanted to burn 87 octane or Premium at the click of a button. Also makes fiddling with the settings so much easier. I have severely limited what I can do by going with the JB1.
The car puts out so much torque low in the rpm range that punching it below 3K while it is fighting the gear reduction puts max stress on the clutch. That’s when you get slippage. It’s also where the power train has it’s amazing diesel like torque surge. My main goal was to try to get more oomph at the top. While the small turbo is great for low lag, it runs out of boost as the rpm gets higher. Why I would upgrade the turbo if I wanted to seriously increase performance.
The car puts out so much torque low in the rpm range that punching it below 3K while it is fighting the gear reduction puts max stress on the clutch. That’s when you get slippage. It’s also where the power train has it’s amazing diesel like torque surge. My main goal was to try to get more oomph at the top. While the small turbo is great for low lag, it runs out of boost as the rpm gets higher. Why I would upgrade the turbo if I wanted to seriously increase performance.
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I know all that but lugging is well below any of that. The clutch also doesn't slip in your situation unless already worn. It is a weak clutch so that wear comes early with more power unless you drive not to use it so I get it but it's driving that wears it, not the JB4. Just like the test Alltrack wore it's clutch before the more powerful GTI in car and driver tests. Traction and mass have an influence but some Alltrack owners will get 100k out of the same clutch due to driving style.
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sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
Just look at the dyno plots on this engine. Max torque comes on at a very low rpm. Max resistance from the car accelerating is when the engine is in the lower rpm relative to the gear speed, less mechanical advantage, higher drag. Its exactly when you will exceed the clutch design parameters. Nothing to do with wear, a brand new clutch will slip if it can’t hold the torque. Clutch slip always is at the low-mid rpm range in this scenario.
I could easily toast my 4K clutch if I turned the boost up. It’s only designed to handle so much torque. Why you see various stages of clutch kits out there.
I could easily toast my 4K clutch if I turned the boost up. It’s only designed to handle so much torque. Why you see various stages of clutch kits out there.
You could easily toast your clutch as is. No slip is no wear. High gear load shows the problem. It's not what creates it since it holds perfectly when the clutch is good. Enjoy your JB1. 
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/clutch-slipping-with-stock-tune.350389/
"43k on mine with 3k at stage 1. All is still well. Every once in a while I'll floor it at low revs in 5th to test for slip. Still none. I drive quite spirited at times but try very hard to properly Rev match and never blast off the line."
"No clutch should ever slip if you put your foot down in any gear. If it does, there's something going on. Either the pressure plate, the disc, the flywheel surface, or something else is causing issues. The "test" is really there to show you if you're getting close to needing a new clutch in an otherwise healthy system. If your clutch slips in normal situations, it's too far gone, and the car is no longer road worthy. "
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/clutch-slipping-with-stock-tune.350389/
"43k on mine with 3k at stage 1. All is still well. Every once in a while I'll floor it at low revs in 5th to test for slip. Still none. I drive quite spirited at times but try very hard to properly Rev match and never blast off the line."
"No clutch should ever slip if you put your foot down in any gear. If it does, there's something going on. Either the pressure plate, the disc, the flywheel surface, or something else is causing issues. The "test" is really there to show you if you're getting close to needing a new clutch in an otherwise healthy system. If your clutch slips in normal situations, it's too far gone, and the car is no longer road worthy. "
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sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
Just quiz George from BMS if you don’t believe me.
The issue is real, it's the mechanism that's at issue. Clutch is weak, more power shows that if you use it when shifting and accelerates the issue. Clutch doesn't slip at low RPM and high gear until it's worn away from other situations. Once you experience slip you can milk it along for a while but it's time for a swap. George is only protecting you from yourself. If you used your right foot within the same parameters his clutch tune allows at lower rpm, you'd get the exact same wear and no in gear slip until it's about time to replace anyway.
George will also tell you that the JB4 is smoother which you dismissed. I am not saying that you did anything wrong and am genuinely happy for you. I just don't understand rationalizing the JB1 as better for anyone outside of price and simplicity which is, of course, always valid.
George will also tell you that the JB4 is smoother which you dismissed. I am not saying that you did anything wrong and am genuinely happy for you. I just don't understand rationalizing the JB1 as better for anyone outside of price and simplicity which is, of course, always valid.
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sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
I was not rationalizing the JB1 outside of price and simplicity. The car runs OEM smooth at the boost levels I have. I would run the JB4 with the same boost profile.
The discussion on what makes a clutch slip or not has nothing to do with the source of increased power. Clutches are designed to take a certain amount of torque, if you exceed that limit it slips. Even brand new. When you buy that new clutch you will see they are rated for different power level, or stages. If your replacement clutch is not rated for the power your engine puts out, it will slip when new. I can’t make that more simple.
The discussion on what makes a clutch slip or not has nothing to do with the source of increased power. Clutches are designed to take a certain amount of torque, if you exceed that limit it slips. Even brand new. When you buy that new clutch you will see they are rated for different power level, or stages. If your replacement clutch is not rated for the power your engine puts out, it will slip when new. I can’t make that more simple.
You should read about the JB4 on map 6. https://n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50428
sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
You who? I am on Map 6
sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
On this and VWvortex. You need to keep looking at the classifieds