Recent content by Pudding

Not a bad shout re: cam chain and/or VVT wear. Mine's on 161K and starts on the button after replacing the chain, VVT sprocket and chain cover. With the original sprocket, I would intermittently get 5-10 seconds of clattering after a sluggish start, which I can only assume was oil draining out...

Eagle F1 SuperSport

In the UK we use LUK Audi 8P S3 flywheels which seem to hold up longer than GTI ones.

You have 2 noises there. 1) Fuel line rattle. Very common. The short injector pulses at idle causes the plastic fuel lines to vibrate on the chassis rail. Drop the under body plastic liner on the passenger side and wrap the lines in foam pipe lagging. More revs = bigger injector pulses which...

Chemicals dumped in through the intake do nothing. The carbon is baked on, hard. You can soak the ports and valves in 'Carbon off' overnight and still be there with picks and drill brushes for hours, I've done it. Walnut blasting is 10-15 seconds per port once the intake is off, and nowhere...

Just wondering if anyone has faced bump steer problems after lowering their MK5, and what solutions they've come up with. There is the TT knuckle option (50mm ball joint drop) but too many other things are required from the TT to do it properly (steering rack, tie rods and control arms/BJs)...

So that's all you need to do to the chain cover. Drill it out to 33mm! If I knew that in advance...... The only thing I didn't like about the roller conversion was the extra noise over a follower. The EA113 is noisy enough without aftermarket parts adding to them. I also didn't like having to...

That's like asking if it's a bad idea to give up smoking after doing it for 30 years. Yes, change it asap, it's waaaaaaay over schedule. I'm surprised the mechatronics haven't packed up.

The missing tooth is the 'synchronisation gap' sir. The ECU uses that gap as a zero point (or 0 degrees) and then counts the teeth from there to figure out crank angle, if that makes sense? It looks like some struck that part of the tone wheel? But that is hidden under a windage tray...

Yeah that's one way around the problem. It adds quite a bit of time in labour and expensive cam girdle sealant though! The trick is to use a genuine VW polydrive bit, a long breaker bar and an assistant to push hard on the breaker bar whilst you crack it free. For such a tiny bolt, it has a...

Well that is one negative of such a hard material, it's not as ductile as steel. The HPFP piston dances around something chronic at higher rpm. I can see those resonances shattering ceramics quite easily. I agree with a previous poster, if it's not broken, don't fix it. Certainly with a...

Replace everything that lives behind the cambelt covers - 1 x belt, 1 x tensioner pulley, 2 x idler pullies, 2 x bolts, 1 x nut, 1 x water pump. VW sell the belt parts as a kit, and the pump is separate. Visual inspection of a belt is no indication of condition. Rubber deteriorates with age...

You have my sympathy because it's an easy job and the parts are cheap. 4 hours book time. $1500 is extortion. If you're in for that kind of money because you can't do the job yourself, I would be tempted to give the business to the other guy and get the chain and tensioner done as well.

Yeah rpm would be useful, as would throttle position, so that we can see how quickly the turbo responds to the target. Boost targets will change depending on conditions. The ECU will only deliver the full beans if it's 100% happy with all the sensor feedback, which includes the stock map as...

Was that a typo? $1500 for a cambelt and water pump refresh o_O I don't know about the rest of the world but in the UK, dealers charge £549 ($700) for that job, which includes stretch bolts, G13 coolant, 2 year warranty and wash/vac. Yes the other guy you spoke to is correct about the...