R32 Brake Pads fitted.

New Hawk Ceramic Low Dust.
Front HB538Z.760 D111
Rear HB544Z.628 D1108
Cost Approx $360-$380 from most vendors here in Oz and OS landed.

Fitted front and rears today, not too hard a job. Rears needed a special tool to rotate piston clockwise under pressure so I had to make one or the wheels would still be off it :help:

Installs were something like this.. may not be 100% complete but the gist is there

Fronts were straight forward:

1.Remove wheel (and all the jacking bits etc that go 1st)
2.Undo large flat spring tab.
3.Remove dust covers off rear of slides.
4.Remove 7mm allen bolts
5.Lever caliper body so piston retact slightly allowing old pads to clear edge lip.
6.Slide off pad carrier and remove pads (undo wear indicator if working on left side)
7.Using a G clamp or piston tool retract piston into body a few mm's.
If you have topped up brake fluid before doing this job you may want to suck some fluid out of the reservoir.
8.Smear anti rattle grease on to rear of pads and clip the new pads back into the carrier and piston.
9.Mount carrier back over disk and locate with the 2 x 7mm cap screws.
10.Tighten caps screws and replace covers.
11.Replace large flat spring tab. I held middle and popped each end in with a screw driver and then tapped middle into its slot. Use eye protection as it can spring off.
12.Repace wear indicator plug. I had to graft my old plug onto the new pad as it came with male instead of female socket:frown: I opened rubber boot and soldered the wires and heat shrunk them then rolled boot back over)
Press brake pedal gently a few times until pads seat and peddle comes back up.
Repeat on the other side.

Plug etc
1st pic is the original pad plug. 2nd pic is the one on the new pads. Just swapped the old in...

great thread / pics mate!

many km on the OE pads? or just changing to get rid of dust?

i'm running the HP Plus, bit noisey sometimes, but heaps of bite.

Rears now.
1.Remove rear wheel as before.
2.Undo 13mm caliper bolts whilst holding sliding pin with 15mm open end spanner. Remove bolts.
3.Wiggle off pad carrier and piston assy.
4.Unclip handbrake cable ball from its socket and slide plastic ferrule back thru the mount to allow easier access to assy.
5.Using"Special tool" retract piston back into the holder until it suts about 12mm away from face.
Note: Piston needs to turn clockwise whilst holding pressure to its face.
Slip in new pads. Remove one old and replace one new at a time. Put antisquuel on rear as before.
6.Slide pad carrier back over disk.
7.Replace 2 mounting bolts ensuring to hold slide with 15mm open end.
8.Re attach handbrake cable.
9.Pump brake pedal gently to seat pad and bring peddle back up.
Replace wheel etc.

Bazzle

Ha HA jumped in a quick there Ian, didnt get to post rears

Dust is the main reason. It is starting to bite into the clear on the wheels after 15,000ks :frown:

Have driven approx 60 kilometerss on new pads. They will take a week to bed in to match the disks. Initial feel is OK. Lost the initial Bite of the OE Pagids but pull up very well. They will improve with time.

Lets see how the dust etc goes too:thumbsup:

Bazzle

Nice piston retraction tool - I like! :thumbsup:

Looks good bazzle, i wouldnt mind having less dust as well but may wait for the current pads to wear out.. but it is annoying if the brake dust gets caked on with the rain some weeks..

Just another question - do these chew up your discs faster, and do they take a while to heat up and still close to OEM for the streets?

Cheers

Gloves and mask? never wear them, and never had even when I should have in the old days when the shoes in drums where asbestos we would even use shop air to blow all the dust away.......

Dont know if they chew up disks faster, not really an issue I dont believe anyway.
After a day of driving they feel pretty much the same as the standard ones in around town driving.
You get used to new stuff pretty quick

Bazzle

I have a question....

I just ordered the same pads from a vendor and was sent the following:

Front: HB 515Z.760 D915
Rear: HB 544Z.628 D1108

was I sent the correct pads?

Thanks

This is something i want to do too, cheers for the feedback Bazzle. I take it you didn't think it was worth replacing the rotors too with slotted ones, or will you wait for those to wear out?

dtvburns said:

Gloves and mask? never wear them, and never had even when I should have in the old days when the shoes in drums where asbestos we would even use shop air to blow all the dust away.......

Click to expand...

Are you serious??? What a completely stupid thing to say. Mesothelioma may take 30 years to develop but it's something you wouldn't wish upon your worst enemy. Perhaps if you're a surgeon you'd advise not wearing masks, eye protection & gloves either.....

G-rig said:

This is something i want to do too, cheers for the feedback Bazzle. I take it you didn't think it was worth replacing the rotors too with slotted ones, or will you wait for those to wear out?

Click to expand...

Next time. Ive had good success with slotted rotors in the past.
Not req ATM:wink:

Bazzle

saleen146 said:

I have a question....

I just ordered the same pads from a vendor and was sent the following:

Front: HB 515Z.760 D915
Rear: HB 544Z.628 D1108

was I sent the correct pads?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Not sure . Seen a few diff numbers in my searching. Try a local Hawk site for a catalogue number?

Bazzle

Let us know how you go with the dust and disc wear Baz. However less dust usually means they'll chew up your discs quicker, and i'm going to wait till my pads need replacing.