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- Location
- Minneapolis
In the quest to track down some issues I've been having with the GLI, I decided to ditch the oem DV / BOV / BPV, and the results (and the PRICE) prove it was well worth it!
I know BSH sells a recirc kit for what seems like a lot of cash. Not sure on the exact price, but it looks decent. I did this project for UNDER $50, start to finish. The main component that is different on my setup from theirs is the Forge DV/BOV. I had one of these on my evo, and it wrecked the driveability with horrible part-throttle fluttering. Regardless, I had a stock BOV out of my 2G DSM that I wanted to put to good use for at least plumbing this kit. These can be had for free, or $10 or whatever, very cheap. This is the same as the stock BOV on an Evo VIII, originally I planned on putting in a stronger valve out of an evo IX (or VIII MR), but this one seems to hold 20psi just fine so it'll stay for now. Another (GOOD) option would be a 710N audi/vw valve, these can be had for around $35.
Now, on to the project!
First off, order a block-off plug from ATP Turbo, $22:
Stock DV is CRAP, leak-prone, dumb design, blah blah blah. Thank you ATP!
Quick pic of what we're plugging up here. DV recirculates directly back into intake, great place for a massive boost leak!
Now, plumbing the new DV. VW gave us an ideal way to plumb a DV with the noise pipe. At the end of the noise pipe closest to the windshield, remove the short (about 4" long) piece from the end of the noise pipe. Hang onto this for later.
Now, just to the right of the throttle body, on the other end of the noise pipe, there's another charge pipe that goes down to the 'cold-side' IC pipe. Remove that as well.
Now, take the 4" pipe from above and slap it on the oulet of the DV/BOV. Find another piece of hose and some hose clamps that fits over the end of the DV and fits over the opening on the IC pipe below it. Use hose clamps to tighten everything down good and tight, and do a boost leak test to be sure it seals and does NOT leak.
The end result should look like this:
If you have a boost gauge, tap another T off the line and run it to the DV / BOV. I was installing a Boost gauge at the same time, so I did just that:
(see DIY boost gauge install thread for more info on this spot)
SO, at this point, you can drive your car. You will be venting to atmosphere and truely enjoying a BOV and NOT a DV.
What's that? You are smart and know that any air vented out this way will screw up how your car runs at some points, since that is air that has already been metered by your MAF, your ECU is expecting it to be there, and then you get momentary rich conditions, possibly causing your car to run like crap.
So what do we do? Recirculate that air back into your intake pipe, somewhere AFTER the MAF. This car has a neuspeed intake on it, so all we're gonna do is cut a hole in it, weld in a pipe, and connect the dots.
Several auto parts stores like O'reiley stock short pieces of pipe for exhaust parts and such. Find a short appropriate-sized one and cut it to fit your hole (or more likely, find a pipe and then cut the hole to fit it )
Next step, weld pipe into intake. Find a friend with a welder and have them do the dirty work. Whats that? Your intake is aluminum and the pipe you got is steel? Buddy only has a MIG and not a TIG? Well then plan B! JB Quik Weld!
Yes, a tad ghetto, but guess what, once it cures you can sand it down and paint it, just like I plan to. This will give it a nice oem finish, and be strong enough for years and years of abuse
Now, slap the intake back in its home, and find an elbow hose to go from the end of the noise pipe back into the intake like so:
Tighten up all your connections, and you're ready to go!
Spend some time on it, and you'll get a nice, clean OEM look and will out perform the OEM POS DV.
I have EPL stage1 chip on this car, and we did before/after logs. N75 duty cycle went way down, which means the turbo is not working nearly as hard to pump out air, which leads to lower intake temps, which increases power AND longevity.
Questions? Please post! Comments about this being a ghetto mod? I'll laugh as this car outperforms yours with the stock DV, or your expensive kit This is a DIY thread
I know BSH sells a recirc kit for what seems like a lot of cash. Not sure on the exact price, but it looks decent. I did this project for UNDER $50, start to finish. The main component that is different on my setup from theirs is the Forge DV/BOV. I had one of these on my evo, and it wrecked the driveability with horrible part-throttle fluttering. Regardless, I had a stock BOV out of my 2G DSM that I wanted to put to good use for at least plumbing this kit. These can be had for free, or $10 or whatever, very cheap. This is the same as the stock BOV on an Evo VIII, originally I planned on putting in a stronger valve out of an evo IX (or VIII MR), but this one seems to hold 20psi just fine so it'll stay for now. Another (GOOD) option would be a 710N audi/vw valve, these can be had for around $35.
Now, on to the project!
First off, order a block-off plug from ATP Turbo, $22:
Stock DV is CRAP, leak-prone, dumb design, blah blah blah. Thank you ATP!
Quick pic of what we're plugging up here. DV recirculates directly back into intake, great place for a massive boost leak!
Now, plumbing the new DV. VW gave us an ideal way to plumb a DV with the noise pipe. At the end of the noise pipe closest to the windshield, remove the short (about 4" long) piece from the end of the noise pipe. Hang onto this for later.
Now, just to the right of the throttle body, on the other end of the noise pipe, there's another charge pipe that goes down to the 'cold-side' IC pipe. Remove that as well.
Now, take the 4" pipe from above and slap it on the oulet of the DV/BOV. Find another piece of hose and some hose clamps that fits over the end of the DV and fits over the opening on the IC pipe below it. Use hose clamps to tighten everything down good and tight, and do a boost leak test to be sure it seals and does NOT leak.
The end result should look like this:
If you have a boost gauge, tap another T off the line and run it to the DV / BOV. I was installing a Boost gauge at the same time, so I did just that:
(see DIY boost gauge install thread for more info on this spot)
SO, at this point, you can drive your car. You will be venting to atmosphere and truely enjoying a BOV and NOT a DV.
What's that? You are smart and know that any air vented out this way will screw up how your car runs at some points, since that is air that has already been metered by your MAF, your ECU is expecting it to be there, and then you get momentary rich conditions, possibly causing your car to run like crap.
So what do we do? Recirculate that air back into your intake pipe, somewhere AFTER the MAF. This car has a neuspeed intake on it, so all we're gonna do is cut a hole in it, weld in a pipe, and connect the dots.
Several auto parts stores like O'reiley stock short pieces of pipe for exhaust parts and such. Find a short appropriate-sized one and cut it to fit your hole (or more likely, find a pipe and then cut the hole to fit it
)
Next step, weld pipe into intake. Find a friend with a welder and have them do the dirty work. Whats that? Your intake is aluminum and the pipe you got is steel? Buddy only has a MIG and not a TIG? Well then plan B! JB Quik Weld!
Yes, a tad ghetto, but guess what, once it cures you can sand it down and paint it, just like I plan to. This will give it a nice oem finish, and be strong enough for years and years of abuse
Now, slap the intake back in its home, and find an elbow hose to go from the end of the noise pipe back into the intake like so:
Tighten up all your connections, and you're ready to go!
Spend some time on it, and you'll get a nice, clean OEM look and will out perform the OEM POS DV.
I have EPL stage1 chip on this car, and we did before/after logs. N75 duty cycle went way down, which means the turbo is not working nearly as hard to pump out air, which leads to lower intake temps, which increases power AND longevity.
Questions? Please post! Comments about this being a ghetto mod? I'll laugh as this car outperforms yours with the stock DV, or your expensive kit
This is a DIY thread 
