Klasse question

[bcze1]

Nooooooooo! Don't let SG dry completely, that's what makes it impossible to buff. One panel at a time, apply and then wipe off & buff.

If done this way, not need for a PC as it comes right off.

[jizzim]

I didn't have a problem buffing off SG by hand last night. I layered it on very very thin. Speaking of... I need to run back to the garage.

[jizzim]

Well here's the end result.

[dpham00]

Originally Posted by bcze1

Nooooooooo! Don't let SG dry completely, that's what makes it impossible to buff. One panel at a time, apply and then wipe off & buff.

If done this way, not need for a PC as it comes right off.

easy way to remember - WOWO - wipe on -wipe off.

[LBKEN41]

^HAHA...Wax on, wax off...thanks Mr. Miyagi....J/K I Dan.

[LI_HXC_VR6]

I love the Klasse products.

One thing though, w/ the SG it says to leave on overnight before removing That's the way I've done it the past few yrs and never had any difficulty removing it. The last 2 times I used a PC but even by hand it wasn't ever an issue. This was on my old mk3 Jetta which was black and my new GTI which is white... I miss the way the black shines, but I love the way the white always looks clean (which is why I chose white this time) so it's a trade-off

[HipToss]

Originally Posted by jizzim

Well here's the end result.

Looks VERY good!

[boaz]

LOVE KLASSSE!!!!!!!!!

[bcze1]

Originally Posted by boaz

LOVE KLASSSE!!!!!!!!!

[thez19]

Ok, so ill be ordering the Klasse All in one and the SG in a week or so with some other shit from autogeeks. What is the best order in which to use these? Wash, wax, polish, then sealant? I know u only really need to do the allinone polish and the sealant like every 5-6 months. Otherwise every other week id be waxing, usually every week id just wash n spray detail. Also, what wax is best for not messing with the sealant or polish? Im lookin at Stoners speed bead or mothers reflections, maybe something from Wolfgang. Not sure, I usually just use Turtle ICE with good results, its a little time consuming to apply then buff off completely but it shins nicely. But id definately wanna stay synthetic, I hate carnuabas or pastes.

P.S. What dyou all use as applicators for the Klasse polish and sealants?? Just a reg foam pad, or microfibers? Ive read that the thicker foam pads are great for applying, then the Cobra lint-less microfibers are good for buffing out the haze. Like I saw these http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-foam-hand-applicators.html

[bcze1]

With your first Klasse application, do the following:

Wash
Clay bar
Wash again
Polish (if needed)
Klasse AIO
Klasse SG, (2-3 coats will make it even more durable but you should wait 24 hours between layers so it can properly cure)
Wax (not because you need to, Klasse offers more protection than any wax, but a good carnuba like P21S brings out more depth in the finish)

Foam or MF applicators are fine for Klasse, wet them slightly before using. And realize a little Klasse goes a LONG way. I typically use about 1oz of each AIO/SG per application. You want it thin. Use a quality MF cloth to buff it off, and its helpful if the cloth is slighly damp, but not wet.

DO NOT put wax down before Klasse, it won't adhere to the finish.

Natural, filler-free, carnuba wax like P21S or Pinnacle Sovereign is some of the best you can get. But if you prefer, synthetic waxes are fine on Klasse, it won't harm anything. But synthetic waxes are typically full of unnecessary fillers, and really just aren't needed since you're not using the wax for protection. Its just a topper.

Oh and throw away the ICE, that stuff is greasy crap. And probably does your clearcoat more harm than good. Its like using ArmorAll on your paint.

[LI_HXC_VR6]

^^ nice write up but why would you polish before using the AIO? I was under the impression, since it says so on the package, that the AIO is a polish I'll be doing mine up in the next couple of weeks and I'll definitely be using your wax tip to deepen the shine

[bcze1]

AIO is exactly that, all in one, including cleaner, polish, and sealant. But its not abrasive, so if you have holograms, swirl marks, or scratches it won't touch them. Basically if your paint needs real correction, AIO isn't up to the job, and you need to step up to something that has real cut to it prior to AIO.

[thez19]

Ok, so doesnt the Claying help pretty much to remove any shit from ur paint, marks, swirls, small scratches and all that?? And also, I agree with the oddness of using a polish before Klasse, spend all the moohlah on it, not gonna buy ANOTHER polish for before it

The ICE has come thru fairly well for me so far, I agree it does seem a bit greasy, well I dunno if thats the right term, I mean I usually do one quarter of my car at a time, and I probably use more then I need, but I apply it with a circle MF applicator, let it haze for bout 3-4 minutes, then remove the excess with one towel and buff it with another. One trick Ive still never really used is dampening my applicators and buffers. I always buff n polish with a DRY MF towel, which may also be why its kinda hard to remove and buff it out completely. The ICE alone takes me bout an hour atleast.

Im gonna be getting like a reg spray bottle to fill with water to dampen my applicators from now on, prob get that when I get the Klasse n shit. Yes I am gonna stick with synthetic wax, I used to paste wax my old accord and tiburon and no fuckin way im goin back to that shit, ya it looked pretty good after, but getting there was a HUGE PITA!

I currently have the ICE Clay bar liquid. Havent used it yet but ill be using that when I do my klasse prob in a week or so. I think its gonna work well, cuz its a mixed compound that u apply like a polish but it lifts all the fine shit n everything just like the piece o' clay does, without the hassel of using a clay. So I guess the idea is u wash, rinse, apply the clay while its still wet, then wash the clay off, and rinse again then dry? Or dyou have to clean the clay off before you wash again..

One thing I will say bout ICE wax n polish is its really nice for glossed wheels. Like my ASA Jh8's with the glossy black finish and the machined rim and center, this stuck goes on easy and wipes off easy and leaves a nice shine and protects from brake dust a bit. I know theres loads of shit like this on autogeeks too so I may look for somethin else, but who knows.

[LI_HXC_VR6]

Originally Posted by thez19

Ok, so doesnt the Claying help pretty much to remove any shit from ur paint, marks, swirls, small scratches and all that??

Claybar removes contaminants from the surface of the paint, it does not do anything about swirls and scratches.

[bcze1]

Originally Posted by thez19

Ok, so doesnt the Claying help pretty much to remove any shit from ur paint, marks, swirls, small scratches and all that?? And also, I agree with the oddness of using a polish before Klasse, spend all the moohlah on it, not gonna buy ANOTHER polish for before it

Originally Posted by LI_HXC_VR6

Claybar removes contaminants from the surface of the paint, it does not do anything about swirls and scratches.

Exactly, clay does NOTHING for paint damage like swirls & scratches.

And if your paint is in near new condition before using Klasse AIO, then there's no need to polish. But if your paint requires correction, you need to buy a proper polish to do it.

thez19, not trying to be an ass, but you don't get it. There is no single "magic" product that can polish out damage, bring out a lustrous shine, and protect. There just isn't. Even with polishes (I'm a fan of Sonus these days) there are varying degrees of cut, or abrasiveness. The most abrasive stuff will take care of deep scratches and other marks, but you then have to use the next lighter polish to restore the shine that the most abrasive polish marred. True paint correction must be done in stages. Take a look here for a good "how to" that explains the different levels of polish and then moving to protection (Klasse). http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ect-shine.html

Autopia.org is also a good forum for learning, though they're kinda tough on stupid questions. And don't even bring up ICE over there, the laughter will be heard for hours.

As far as synthetic versus Carnuba wax, its partly preference. But your comment about old paste wax is probably about the old Turtle wax from a can. That's not what I'm talking about. Good carnuba wax like P21S goes on as easily as the ICE crap your using, probably easier.

Also, I would NOT use the ICE clay bar stuff on top of ANYTHING. If it even works remotely like a clay bar should (though in reality it probably doesn't) it would harm the sealant. If you're going to get serious about your paint, throw the ICE away. Using it with Klasse would be like drinking bottle of Opus One Cabernet with a Big Mac.

If you like ICE, and your current routine, then don't waste your money on Klasse. But it really seems you need to open your mind up to proper detailing.

[thez19]

K im reading the shit that guy on autopia is saying and i just read him say to use DAWN dish detergent if ur paint is real dirty....I think im done takin advice from there

Listen, dont say I dont get it, I get it, im just asking for opinions on different types of wax, polish and sealing products. I know the proper lineup of how to keep a slick car, the only thing i may have needed to learn was that wax comes after polish n sealant rather then before. But thats really because I never used such an elaborate step process before. Im usually a wash, rinse, dry, wax kinda guy. I may use a detailer once in a while but im very detail oriented, i spend a lot of time going around the car after any kind of detailing looking for any swirls, marks, fibers or anything..

Edit:: The rest of that guys instruction is actually fairly on the ball, and I do like the look of some of those Sonus products like the towels and the carnuba sprays

[bcze1]

Originally Posted by thez19

K im reading the shit that guy on autopia is saying and i just read him say to use DAWN dish detergent if ur paint is real dirty....I think im done takin advice from there

Depending on your purpose, Dawn or other dishwashing detergent is fine. It removes a lot of stuff, including wax and most sealants. So its perfect to use before a full clay/polish/sealant detail. But not a good idea for your weekly washing.

Originally Posted by thez19

Listen, dont say I dont get it, I get it, im just asking for opinions on different types of wax, polish and sealing products.

I said that because you seem to expect AIO to be able to do everything. Not to be a jerk, just trying to explain that no matter how good or expensive a product is, you still need the right tools for a job.

The above is a good example. You seem a bit close minded to things. I don't know what the guy said about Dawn. But you're writing off a good, informative site because of your opinion of dish soap. When in fact dish soap is a great car cleaning product, when used properly.

[CV_Soccer]

Originally Posted by thez19

K im reading the shit that guy on autopia is saying and i just read him say to use DAWN dish detergent if ur paint is real dirty....I think im done takin advice from there

Don't use Dawn for anywhere but in your kitchen sink!!! Use a car wash made to do the job which won't harming your finish.

Klasse AIO is Wipe-on & Wipe-off but the SG is very particular, and you need to follow the instruction closely otherwise you will have a bit of work ahead of you but take a look at this as it may help.

Klasse Application Guide - http://www.autogeek.net/klasse-usa.html

1. Wash
2. Clay – removes bonded containments
3. Polish – VW paint is hard as nails so be prepared for some work.
4. Wash again
5. Klasse AIO
6. Klasse SG, two coats if you want a high gloss finish.

Here is My TR after AIO & 2 coats of SG

[thez19]

Ur typically supposed to clay over a wet surface right? I figure why not just wash, leave it wet and clay it, that way u dont need much lube at all with it. The rest of that setup sounds find, except I wouldnt wash after the polish. Id wash, rinse, clay, rinse, dry, polish, AIO, SG and wax. Also, is it really necessary to wait 24 hours after u apply a glaze before you wax? I mean, I dont have a garage of my own, I use my parents' garage, they live bout 10 minutes away, to do my detailing for now, lucky me they live so close, otherwise id be doin my detailing in the blazing sun
But can I just do all that, apply the glaze and maybe wait an hour and go right into a paste wax, or what? Also, more input as far as the nicest waxes would be appreciated. Specially those that will not fuck with the glaze at all, I really didnt wanna go back to paste again since I had issues with it before, but i really only used turtle before and now im starting to see ones like P21s n shit n I might go back. Anyone using a synthetic wax after the glaze?

[LI_HXC_VR6]

Originally Posted by CV_Soccer

Don't use Dawn for anywhere but in your kitchen sink!!! Use a car wash made to do the job which won't harming your finish.

Dawn/dishwashing soap is fine to use for certain purposes, such as washing before a detail. It will remove some old excess wax and oils on the surface better than regular car wash soap... but as stated already, you do not want to use it unless you plan on claying the car and washing again (with a regular car wash soap) before a polish/wax combo.

As far as your step by step, it's right on except I'd definitely wash the car again after using the claybar (before polishing), there's really no need to wash after the polish.

[CV_Soccer]

Originally Posted by thez19

Ur typically supposed to clay over a wet surface right? I figure why not just wash, leave it wet and clay it, that way u dont need much lube at all with it. The rest of that setup sounds find, except I wouldnt wash after the polish. Id wash, rinse, clay, rinse, dry, polish, AIO, SG and wax. Also, is it really necessary to wait 24 hours after u apply a glaze before you wax?

The wash after the polish would be to remove any product that may have been left behind after you buffed the car out, another option to a wash would be a wipe down with a 50% alcohol solution.

The 24 hour waiting period is to allow the Klasse SG to complete its bonding with the finish on your car. The longer you wait before applying your second coat the better the results but the ultimate judge is your eye and if your happy that is all that matters.