NEW VERSION PLUG
Directions will be the same as the old version for removing the OEM noise pipe.
Install of the new billet plug:
Simply push the plug into the hole where the noise pipe was, push it in until it stops, secure the plug with the 4 set screws using an allen wrench, tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.
These new plugs are all "Stealth Plugs" so you can re-install your noise pipe over the billet plug for the "Stealth" or "OEM" look, if desired, and your dealer will never know its there.
Here's a pic of it installed with the noise pipe removed:
OLD VERSION PLUG
I figured there'd be a DIY on this already but I guess no ones done it yet. Heres the correct way of installing the noise pipe delete plug.
Its very easy and only requires a few tools.
Benifits: Adds noticable throttle responce,
Quiets down the ride from the inside of the car (less engine noise)
Cleans up the look of the engine compartment.
The engine cover doesnt need to be off to do this mod, but it definately helps a lot when taking off the first hose from the actual throttle body pipe.
Heres the motor before we start.
I started at the firewall. Start by squeezing the hose clamp and slipping it out of the way.
Next, theres a torx or star head screw up front that needs to be removed, unscrew this, an allen will also work for this (dont remember what size)
Theres also a hex head bolt that needs to be removed up front on the radiator support, remove this.
Now, down by the throttle body pipe there is another hose clamp that needs to be squeezed off. This is where the noise pipe starts. Its easier to squeeze this one and slip it downward instead of upward.
Now find where that same hose connects to the next hose with a slip in clamp. Undo this by pulling up on the metal bar/tab while pulling the hoses appart. Either a screwdriver or pliers would work to pull up on the little bar/Tab.
Now that section of hose can come out. A lot of people leave this hose in and just plug the end of it with a 1.5" plug and this is not the correct way to do this mod, if you plug this hose you will not get the same results, the rubber hose will still flex under pressure causing lost boost pressure and a 1.5" plug may pop out due to fitment problems. Several people have told me about their experiences with their problems of pluging the hose here.
Now undo the connection at the firewall, again by lifting up in the metal tab and slipping the hose out, being careful no to damage the MAF sensor wires. A good way to get the MAF sensor wires out of the way is to pull the wire away from where its clipped onto the noise pipe, pull appart the hose where it was connected with a hose clamp and slip it underneath the noise pipe.
Then continue to undo the connection at the firewall and lift the entire noise pipe out. You may have to twist it out to get it out of the engine compartment, but it will come out rather easily.
Now the noise pipe has been deleted, time to plug the hole.
I used a plug that I modified to fit perfectly into the hole. (I also have these for sale)
Simply push the plug into the hole at the throttle body. Make sure it sits evenly
Then twist the wing nut until the plug is firmly in the hole, (my plugs are about 2 and a half full twists, and then tighten the added nut down to the wing nut to lock the two into place)
NOTE: For the new billet style plugs, you will have four set screws for your plug. Tighten these down as equally as possible for the best fit, and do not overtighten! These set screws have knurled ends on them to grip the ineer walls of the noise pipe bung, so all four set screws should be firmly tightened, but not overtightened.
Thats it, youre done. Make sure the plug is tight enough and youre done. Best way to test is to try to pull it out by pulling up on the plug. Here is a picture of the removed noise pipe.
And the engine compartment without the noise pipe, much cleaner looking.
Its always a good idea to take your car around the block and test everything right after your done and then double check your work. I have installed this same plug on 06 07 and 08 GTI's, as well as GTI's running on stock boost pressure as well as stageII boost pressure with spikes as hight as 25psi and the plug has held great for thousands of miles without even needing to be re-adjusted or re-tightened.
NEXT
After the Noise Pipe Delete Mod, you'll probably want to do this Firewall Hole Delete Mod, to get rid of the hole in the firewall, this DIY shows you the cleanest, and easiest way to do so, and uses all OEM parts.:thumbsup:
Directions will be the same as the old version for removing the OEM noise pipe.
Install of the new billet plug:
Simply push the plug into the hole where the noise pipe was, push it in until it stops, secure the plug with the 4 set screws using an allen wrench, tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.
These new plugs are all "Stealth Plugs" so you can re-install your noise pipe over the billet plug for the "Stealth" or "OEM" look, if desired, and your dealer will never know its there.
Here's a pic of it installed with the noise pipe removed:
OLD VERSION PLUG
I figured there'd be a DIY on this already but I guess no ones done it yet. Heres the correct way of installing the noise pipe delete plug.
Its very easy and only requires a few tools.
Benifits: Adds noticable throttle responce,
Quiets down the ride from the inside of the car (less engine noise)
Cleans up the look of the engine compartment.
The engine cover doesnt need to be off to do this mod, but it definately helps a lot when taking off the first hose from the actual throttle body pipe.
Heres the motor before we start.
I started at the firewall. Start by squeezing the hose clamp and slipping it out of the way.
Next, theres a torx or star head screw up front that needs to be removed, unscrew this, an allen will also work for this (dont remember what size)
Theres also a hex head bolt that needs to be removed up front on the radiator support, remove this.
Now, down by the throttle body pipe there is another hose clamp that needs to be squeezed off. This is where the noise pipe starts. Its easier to squeeze this one and slip it downward instead of upward.
Now find where that same hose connects to the next hose with a slip in clamp. Undo this by pulling up on the metal bar/tab while pulling the hoses appart. Either a screwdriver or pliers would work to pull up on the little bar/Tab.
Now that section of hose can come out. A lot of people leave this hose in and just plug the end of it with a 1.5" plug and this is not the correct way to do this mod, if you plug this hose you will not get the same results, the rubber hose will still flex under pressure causing lost boost pressure and a 1.5" plug may pop out due to fitment problems. Several people have told me about their experiences with their problems of pluging the hose here.
Now undo the connection at the firewall, again by lifting up in the metal tab and slipping the hose out, being careful no to damage the MAF sensor wires. A good way to get the MAF sensor wires out of the way is to pull the wire away from where its clipped onto the noise pipe, pull appart the hose where it was connected with a hose clamp and slip it underneath the noise pipe.
Then continue to undo the connection at the firewall and lift the entire noise pipe out. You may have to twist it out to get it out of the engine compartment, but it will come out rather easily.
Now the noise pipe has been deleted, time to plug the hole.
I used a plug that I modified to fit perfectly into the hole. (I also have these for sale)
Simply push the plug into the hole at the throttle body. Make sure it sits evenly
Then twist the wing nut until the plug is firmly in the hole, (my plugs are about 2 and a half full twists, and then tighten the added nut down to the wing nut to lock the two into place)
NOTE: For the new billet style plugs, you will have four set screws for your plug. Tighten these down as equally as possible for the best fit, and do not overtighten! These set screws have knurled ends on them to grip the ineer walls of the noise pipe bung, so all four set screws should be firmly tightened, but not overtightened.
Thats it, youre done. Make sure the plug is tight enough and youre done. Best way to test is to try to pull it out by pulling up on the plug. Here is a picture of the removed noise pipe.
And the engine compartment without the noise pipe, much cleaner looking.
Its always a good idea to take your car around the block and test everything right after your done and then double check your work. I have installed this same plug on 06 07 and 08 GTI's, as well as GTI's running on stock boost pressure as well as stageII boost pressure with spikes as hight as 25psi and the plug has held great for thousands of miles without even needing to be re-adjusted or re-tightened.
NEXT
After the Noise Pipe Delete Mod, you'll probably want to do this Firewall Hole Delete Mod, to get rid of the hole in the firewall, this DIY shows you the cleanest, and easiest way to do so, and uses all OEM parts.:thumbsup:
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