strubby
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Daytona Beach
- Car(s)
- 07 GTI DSG
Well, I searched all over for specific write ups for interior disassembly for installing a mono amp and subwoofer with the factory stereo using a LOC, and could not find a good one. So, I'll try my best to do a write up.
This particular setup invloves running a 4ga power wire from the battery in the engine bay, getting a speaker signal for a LOC from the driver's side rear speaker, using the rear (hatch) 12v outlet for the remote wire, using a seatbelt mount/bolt for the ground, installing a remote control in the center console for the amp, and also running an auxiliary (1/8" male audio) cable from the glove box to the center console.
Before you start, make a check list to be sure you have all the things needed:
Tools
-A set of Torx bits (both sockets and screwdriver bits if possible)
-A set of 12 point Triple Square bits, or at least a 10mm (set of 4 $13 from Advanced)
-Flat pry tool, like the plastic trim removal kit from the auto parts store
-Misc sockets, ratchets, flat blade screwdriver, razor knife, linesman pliars, wire strippers, misc. sandpaper, electrical tape and soldering gun if available
Equipment
-An amp install kit (power wire, ground wire, RCAs, Remote wire, Speaker wire, connectors)
-LOC (line output converter). I used a PAC 2-ch.
-RCA Y-Adapter (if using a mono amp)
-Amp/Subwoofer(s)/Box of choice
The interior pieces that were removed for the process (can be done without some of this, but it made for an easy/clean install this way) were: Rear seats, rear driver's side speaker panel (3 Door), driver's side door floor trim panel, hood release panel, foot rest plate, passenger seat, 12v outlet panel (passenger's side), and the hatch mat/carpet and both foam storage trays.
*Always disconnect power/ground from the battery when working on electronics.
First, I started with the back seat and used the rear seat removal thread as a guide. It went well and was pretty easy. This allows you to remove the rear speaker panel, have great maneuverability and run wires cleanly.
Next, you remove the driver's side floor trim panel. Start at the front (near the hood release panel) and pull up. It has clips and pops loose. Work your way back to the rear speaker panel. Pull in towards the center of the car to pop it loose from the rear speaker panel, then pull it towards the front of the car and remove it.
The hood realse panel is next. Behind the lever there is a cap covering a flat headed screw. Remove it. Next, you have to pop the c-clip loose behind the handle, so you can slide it off. Use a flat blade screwdriver, while you pull the lever, to pop the c-clip loose and the lever will slide off. You can now remove the panel.
With the hood release panel removed, you will see a Torx screw holding the foot rest panel down. Remove the screw and slide the foot rest panel up and out. It has 'hooks' on the back of it.
Now, look above that area and you'll see a piece of foam, remove it. Now you can see a rubber grommet (DSG), this is where you'll run you power wire through to the battery. Remove the battery cover and front panel from the battery in the engine bay. Use a wire coat hangar or stiff hanging wire to fish the wire through (easiest if the remove the grommet first). If you poke to the left, you will get to the left of the battery and far enough so you can grab ahold of it in the engine bay. Use the razor knife to slot the grommet and run the power wire through it. Make a loop at the end (inside the car) of the wire. Run the power wire through, loop it around and tape it all together. Pull the wire from the engine bay until you have plenty of power wire to work with. If you remove the the battery top and front covers, you will have plenty of room to run your wire to the positive terminal.
In order to finish running your power wire, along with speaker signal wires for the LOC, the rear speaker panel needs to be removed. Start with the pillar panel, use a pry tool or flat head screwdriver to remove the AIRBAG cover carefully and expose a Torx screw. Remove the screw, then work from the door jamb side, top to bottom. Slide it down in the seat belt, out of the way. Next, remove the plastic cap at the back of the speaker panel to expose another Torx screw. Pull from the bottom and work the panel off, it's held on by clips at this point. Look behind the panel and un-clip the tweeter connection. Now you can completely remove the panel.
Now you can pull the insulation in the floor back towards the center of the car to run the power wire to the back of the car. If you're running any other wires to the front, such as RCA's. now would be a good time. Replace the insulation and move on to the ground wire and speaker signal.
Next, I ran my ground wire to the furthest driver's side seat belt mounting bolt. Use the 10mm Triple Square bit and remove the bolt. Scuff the floor up with sand paper to expose bare metal for a good ground. My connector wasn't big enough to fit the mounting bolt through, so I sniped it in the center and spread it enough to work. Bolt the seatbelt plate back down over the ground connection and run the wire back with the power wire.
Next is the speaker signal. Disconnect the speaker connector and strip about an inch of both wires. I tied into them with speaker wire and ran it to the back with the power and ground. Red w/ white is positive, Brown w/ white is negative. Since I'm using a mono amp, I only need one speaker signal. Soldering is best, and make sure you wrap everything up well with electrical tape.
You could attach the signal wires of the LOC now and hide it behind the rear speaker panel, running your RCA's to the back, but I wanted my LOC in the back by the amp in case I needed to make an adjustment...
This particular setup invloves running a 4ga power wire from the battery in the engine bay, getting a speaker signal for a LOC from the driver's side rear speaker, using the rear (hatch) 12v outlet for the remote wire, using a seatbelt mount/bolt for the ground, installing a remote control in the center console for the amp, and also running an auxiliary (1/8" male audio) cable from the glove box to the center console.
Before you start, make a check list to be sure you have all the things needed:
Tools
-A set of Torx bits (both sockets and screwdriver bits if possible)
-A set of 12 point Triple Square bits, or at least a 10mm (set of 4 $13 from Advanced)
-Flat pry tool, like the plastic trim removal kit from the auto parts store
-Misc sockets, ratchets, flat blade screwdriver, razor knife, linesman pliars, wire strippers, misc. sandpaper, electrical tape and soldering gun if available
Equipment
-An amp install kit (power wire, ground wire, RCAs, Remote wire, Speaker wire, connectors)
-LOC (line output converter). I used a PAC 2-ch.
-RCA Y-Adapter (if using a mono amp)
-Amp/Subwoofer(s)/Box of choice
The interior pieces that were removed for the process (can be done without some of this, but it made for an easy/clean install this way) were: Rear seats, rear driver's side speaker panel (3 Door), driver's side door floor trim panel, hood release panel, foot rest plate, passenger seat, 12v outlet panel (passenger's side), and the hatch mat/carpet and both foam storage trays.
*Always disconnect power/ground from the battery when working on electronics.
First, I started with the back seat and used the rear seat removal thread as a guide. It went well and was pretty easy. This allows you to remove the rear speaker panel, have great maneuverability and run wires cleanly.
Next, you remove the driver's side floor trim panel. Start at the front (near the hood release panel) and pull up. It has clips and pops loose. Work your way back to the rear speaker panel. Pull in towards the center of the car to pop it loose from the rear speaker panel, then pull it towards the front of the car and remove it.
The hood realse panel is next. Behind the lever there is a cap covering a flat headed screw. Remove it. Next, you have to pop the c-clip loose behind the handle, so you can slide it off. Use a flat blade screwdriver, while you pull the lever, to pop the c-clip loose and the lever will slide off. You can now remove the panel.
With the hood release panel removed, you will see a Torx screw holding the foot rest panel down. Remove the screw and slide the foot rest panel up and out. It has 'hooks' on the back of it.
Now, look above that area and you'll see a piece of foam, remove it. Now you can see a rubber grommet (DSG), this is where you'll run you power wire through to the battery. Remove the battery cover and front panel from the battery in the engine bay. Use a wire coat hangar or stiff hanging wire to fish the wire through (easiest if the remove the grommet first). If you poke to the left, you will get to the left of the battery and far enough so you can grab ahold of it in the engine bay. Use the razor knife to slot the grommet and run the power wire through it. Make a loop at the end (inside the car) of the wire. Run the power wire through, loop it around and tape it all together. Pull the wire from the engine bay until you have plenty of power wire to work with. If you remove the the battery top and front covers, you will have plenty of room to run your wire to the positive terminal.
In order to finish running your power wire, along with speaker signal wires for the LOC, the rear speaker panel needs to be removed. Start with the pillar panel, use a pry tool or flat head screwdriver to remove the AIRBAG cover carefully and expose a Torx screw. Remove the screw, then work from the door jamb side, top to bottom. Slide it down in the seat belt, out of the way. Next, remove the plastic cap at the back of the speaker panel to expose another Torx screw. Pull from the bottom and work the panel off, it's held on by clips at this point. Look behind the panel and un-clip the tweeter connection. Now you can completely remove the panel.
Now you can pull the insulation in the floor back towards the center of the car to run the power wire to the back of the car. If you're running any other wires to the front, such as RCA's. now would be a good time. Replace the insulation and move on to the ground wire and speaker signal.
Next, I ran my ground wire to the furthest driver's side seat belt mounting bolt. Use the 10mm Triple Square bit and remove the bolt. Scuff the floor up with sand paper to expose bare metal for a good ground. My connector wasn't big enough to fit the mounting bolt through, so I sniped it in the center and spread it enough to work. Bolt the seatbelt plate back down over the ground connection and run the wire back with the power wire.
Next is the speaker signal. Disconnect the speaker connector and strip about an inch of both wires. I tied into them with speaker wire and ran it to the back with the power and ground. Red w/ white is positive, Brown w/ white is negative. Since I'm using a mono amp, I only need one speaker signal. Soldering is best, and make sure you wrap everything up well with electrical tape.
You could attach the signal wires of the LOC now and hide it behind the rear speaker panel, running your RCA's to the back, but I wanted my LOC in the back by the amp in case I needed to make an adjustment...
