My clutch installation thread 2007 GTI FSI

So, my clutch started slipping right after I went stage 2 APR.

I was getting slip right around peak torque (2500RPM-3000RPM). I was relatively easy on it for about two months and it stayed basically the same for the duration. If Iwas at WOT in gears 4-6 it would do it.

It was not sensitive to outside temperature, as it would slip at 80 degrees down to right around 15. Same slip, same rpm range, etc.

The last few times I drove it, it was starting to slip over a seemingly larger range, before catching. It would slip to about 4000rpm. Also, this was much worse with 2-4 people in the car.

I decided to go with another stock clutch as I don't want to deal with the tractor transmission sounds of a single mass flywheel.

I got the clutch from DBC for under $300. It included the throw out bearing, friction disc, and the pressure plate. AFAIK that is the cheapest place around. The part number is on the box, in my pic. http://shop.dbctuning.com/06F141015C_p/06f141015c.htm

In addition, I had to buy a new axle bolt for the drivers side (one time use) and a couple of bottles of brake fluid (to bleed the clutch). I picked up a transmission jack from harborfreight for $80 as well. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

The install was done in my non-heated garage. I used a propane heater.

I will try to be as descriptive as I can with the install pics.

I just took it for a spin around the block and it drives just fine. I won't get to see if the slip has been remidied for a hundred miles or so. I am going to try to stay out of boost for the first little bit as to properly bed the clutch disc.

Tool list:

• Jack
• Jackstands (2)
• drive-on ramps
• lots of metric sockets (mostly 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, and 18mm)
• 12 point 24mm socket (for axle bolt)
• metric combination wrenches (mostly 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, and 18mm)
• triple square set (IIRC I only used the 10mm)
• torx screwdrivers
• motive brake bleeder (you can get away without this one)
• torque wrench (capable of torquing the wheel studs at least 89 foot pounds)
• long breaker bar (1/2" for hard to get off bolts)
• maybe more, I can't remember...

Here's the clutch. it's a LUK. Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, and alignment tool all in the same box.

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There's a bit of anti-rust treatment on the pressure plate. Gotta remember to clean it off before installing.

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Harbor freight tranny jack and my trusty propane heater.

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Here's a random shot of the car. A pic of the new axle bolts (I got two just in case I had to remove the passenger side axle) I didn't. They're the 12 point ones and the stock ones were 6 point, with a washer. And a reminder shot that the downpipe is going to need to be loostened. This is so the engine can move around freely.

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Pulling the drivers side wheel and the front underside engine cover.

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Drivers side intercooler pipe removed, and the throttle body pipe is being removed. All of it was in the way of the transmission.

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Yank out that starter. Two bolts (kinda like studs with a fixed nut) These also partially attach the tranny to the motor.

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Twist the starter out of the way and you have access to the shift linkages. You don't have to completely unwire the starter.

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Pop the retainers off the shifter linkages. Make sure you don't lose them, they could fly across the garage if you're not careful.

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Disconnect the shifter linkage bracket from the tranny (2 bolts and one nut, IIRC)

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You're going to need to support the engine, since the 2 tranny mounts (drivers side and pendulum) will have to be removed. There's a nice round spot. I put a rag between the jack and oil pan, as I didn't want to mar it too badly. Then there's the driveshaft to transmission output connection. There are a total of six triple-square bolts on each one. You might want to loosten these with someone pressing the brakes for you, soi the whole driveshaft doesn't start spinning on you.

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When I pulled the line off the throw out bearing, I used the new one to plug it. Then I twisted it out of the way so I could work.

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Remove the drivers side inner fender cover. This is two parts. Then a shot of the tranny jack getting in place.

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Not a lot of pics of the agony of wrestling the tranny off the engine. But here are a few pics of the inside of the clutch side of the tranny. Notice the loctite. This is for the reinstallation. I like to use it on most of the bolts inside the transmission (pressure plate to flywheel, throw out bearing to transmission, etc, etc.

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Cleaning the anti-rust off the pressure plate. Inspecting the flywheel for cracks or irregularities. I didn't find any real issues here. No signs of temperature problems. No scoring. No gouges or deep scratches. Also, check the flywheel for excessive play. it should rotate about 1-2cm clockwise to counterclockwise. Too much more and you're looking at replacing it.

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More flywheel shots. I cleaned it with a clean paint brush first, to get all the loose dust off, then I used a toothbrush and some degreaser to get it spotless. Compressed air got the nooks and crannies. Make sure to wear a respirator if you do that. IIRC, there's no asbestos in there, but breathing that dust can't be good for you.

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And the reinstall of the pressure plate with the clutch disc in there. Notice the alignment tool in there to keep it straight while you tighten the 12 point 10mm bolts to the flywheel. Then I wasn't in the mood or position to take any more pics of the agony of wrestling the tranny back on the engine. The last pic shows the culprit. That passenger side tranny output cup (rusty thing in the center of the pic) is a real bitch to get past the flywheel teeth. It wants to catch whenever you try to slip the engine and tranny together. That was like a half hour to an hour, just to get that thing off and back on. IMHO the very worst part of the whole installation.

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Torque Specs:

Wheel studs to wheel hub: 120 Nm (89 ft/lbs)

Drive axle to wheel hub hex head bolt: Use new bolt
200 Nm (147.5 ft/lbs) plus an additional 1/2 turn 180*

Drive axle to wheel hub 12-point bolt: Use new bolt
70 Nm (51.6 ft/lbs) plus an additional 1/4 turn 90*

Drive axle to flange shaft/transmission Multi-point socket head bolt: Use new bolts
70 Nm (51.6 ft/lbs) Pre-tighten to 10 Nm (7.4 ft/lbs) in diagonal sequence

(more to be added)

nkresho said:

Bed time. I will work on the pic descriptions later...

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An amazing DIY with a ton of pics! I'm sure when your free you can do a nice write up. :thumbsup:

Not too shabby, and you saved install costs. I think you made right decision, the more I think about it the more dumb it seems to take out DMF. I've been driving about 2 months now too babying slipping clutch, gotta do the same job you just did soon. I was quoted $400 to R&R mine locally, which isn't terrible, but doesn't seem job is too bad with that tranny jack.

bostonaudi said:

Not too shabby, and you saved install costs. I think you made right decision, the more I think about it the more dumb it seems to take out DMF. I've been driving about 2 months now too babying slipping clutch, gotta do the same job you just did soon. I was quoted $400 to R&R mine locally, which isn't terrible, but doesn't seem job is too bad with that tranny jack.

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I agree this thread has made that job an easier DIY. I'm glad he did this, thats on my next to do list after a K04 upgrade.

Nice. It doesn't look like too bad of a job. The last transaxle I dropped by myself was out of an MR2 Turbo in a one car garage... that was pretty hard.

Sub'ed. I may need this someday. Nice job.

i hope you set the preload on the pressure plate

Damn I hope I never have to do this.

Im a diy guy but damn im paying someone for this.

Dan GSR said:

i hope you set the preload on the pressure plate

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Not sure exactly how this might be done? Isn't the throw out bearing self adjusting (spring loaded internally)?

If I am getting this right, the preload is the amount of pressure the TOB exerts on the pressure plate when it is not under pressure and releasing the clutch, right?

Please elaborate as I am very interested now:

What might be a downside to neglecting to complete this task?

How would one adjust the preload on our cars?

nkresho said:

So, my clutch started slipping right after I went stage 2 APR.

I was getting slip right around peak torque (2500RPM-3000RPM). I was relatively easy on it for about two months and it stayed basically the same for the duration. If Iwas at WOT in gears 4-6 it would do it.

It was not sensitive to outside temperature, as it would slip at 80 degrees down to right around 15. Same slip, same rpm range, etc.

The last few times I drove it, it was starting to slip over a seemingly larger range, before catching. It would slip to about 4000rpm. Also, this was much worse with 2-4 people in the car.

I decided to go with another stock clutch as I don't want to deal with the tractor transmission sounds of a single mass flywheel.

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1) I think if you use all that torque it will only be a matter of time before it starts to slip again. If you wanted to keep the DMF, you would have been better off with an an aftermarket clutch that works with the stock flywheel but can hold more torque.
2) I can see some slight marks on the flywheel friction surface. I hope it's not too bad, like finger nail deep gouging. I had a friend who replaced a slipping clutch and forgot to resurface/replace the stock flywheel. His new clutch only lasted a week. He ended up redoing the clutch and learning his lesson the hard way.

If I went through this trouble I think I would drop the cash on an aftermarket clutch flyhweel.

subd