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noName LED license light fixtures

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
Background
After about 80k miles - 2-1/2 years, my 42 draft design LED License plate light bulbs failed,
by morphing to low power strobes,
i.e. They started constantly flashing. :eyebulge:
While the 42dd festoon bulbs lasted almost 10 times longer
than the superbrightleds.com bulbs and the Blesk
error canceling bulbs that I tried,
I am looking for a lifetime solution.

Decided to replace the fixtures with LED specific designs.
First I tried to offer Pyspeed the same amount of money the eBay knockoffs were selling for - No go.
On 9/10/10 1:27 PM said:
eBay sent this message to <redacted> (<redacted>).
Your registered name is included to show this message originated from eBay.

Offer declined. Sorry, your offer has been declined

Dear <redacted>,
Your offer has been declined on the following eBay item:
LED License Plate Light Volkswagen VW MK4 MK5 Golf Gti
Your offer price: US $35.00
Seller terms: --
Buy It Now price: US $48.95

Details for item number: 230449731548
End date: Sep-10-10 20:54:36 PDT
Quantity: 16 available
Seller: pyspeed_com

The lights
So then I bought a pair of LED fixtures for the practically the same amount Pyspeed refused
from theJumbodepot, an Asian eBay seller with a similar product. (actually $34.90 shipped)

theJumbodepot ships via standard mail from Hong Kong – very slow, allow five-six weeks :yikes:
Taking into consideration the time zone differences, theJumbodepot’s email communication was exceptional.
Every email inquiry I made of them always received an automatic reply as soon as I sent it,
followed by a personal, lucid reply, always within one business day.


These are the only markings on the packaging on the LED fixtures from theJumboDepot.


This is what came in the LED fixture kit from theJumboDepot.


No instructions included.
I am guessing the extra two pieces that connect to the harness
are paralleled extra load to satisfy lamp out sensor.
I ignored the extra pieces and installed just the fixtures.







The original fixtures were caked with grit when I removed them.

oe license light fixture, removed, backside view


same oe fixture after cleaning


I was concerned about the exposed connections in the harness supplied with the LED fixtures.
So I grabbed some silicone adhesive and sealed up the harnesses for the new lights.
Cut off the harness part I did not need while I was at it.



Be sure to test polarity in the car before sealing this connection


They do work fine.



They are plug and play. The fixtures are sensitive to polarity, they only work one way,
but the supplied harness’s connecter to the fixture is not polarized,
so you can reverse it there if need be.
Test them before locking them into the bumper.

No bulb out warnings, they light up and stay lit as expected.
I did some testing, both fixtures are needed to satisfy the circuit sensor.
Unplug one fixture and the remaining light is not enough draw,
so the circuit will fault and go dead.

They are Very, very bright. Too bright for my taste.



So I decided to dim them down. Thought about tint spray.
Decided to try Lamin-X protective film to reduce the output - easier to remove if it did not work out.
Bought a 4” x 8” uncut/bulk film in Charcoal (30%)

My film order from LaminX arrived in two working days via USPS!


Cut with scissors, follow instructions on package to apply.



When I was installing and testing them I grabbed a couple of comparison pictures,
one regular fixture on the left, one with tint film added on the right.

This was shot before installing them in the bumper with the lights dangling from the harness


Comparison one regular and one tinted installed


note the difference in the light levels at the body colored indents at the sides of the plate

Comparison one regular and one tinted installed


Now let’s see how long these last. I am pleased with the result so far.
Here are both fixtures with a single layer of charcoal (30%) tint film.

Finished – two the JumboDepot LED license lights, both with Lamin-X charcoal (30%) tint film


Been running them about a month now - so far so good. :wink:
 

WestCoastDub

Ready to race!
I'm using 42DD LED's with a 30ohm power resistor to cancel the error code that I bought almost a year ago based on your experience with them and they're still going strong for me. I'm interested in seeing how your new choice performs in the long run. Although imo 80k with one pair of bulbs is already pretty damn impressive!
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
How can they work without the resistors they should be throwing a code and not lighting up?
The 36 individual LEDs total in the two fixtures draw enough current to satisfy the sensor.
That is also why they are sooo bright.
With LEDs it seems you need a lot of them to draw enough current
and as a result they will be very bright.
One fixture (18 individual LEDs) was not enough.

Less LEDs will have a more appropriate light level,
but will fall below the computers minimum current draw threshold,
therefore requiring resistors to increase the load to keep the computer's sensor happy.
Not the case with these :wink:

The biggest drawback to adding a resistor is often the resistor alone will keep the sensor happy,
effectively disabling the low current sensing, so even failed lights will not trigger a lamp out.
Solutions like these that don't require a resistor maintain the lamp fail detection.
 

4Motioner

4Motion, baby!
Location
Finland
Car(s)
2007 Golf V
I was looking at these as well but was put off by the brightness. Are you sure they're not just equipped with built in resistors? I don't think 18 tiny LEDs like that equal 5W or drawn power.

Also, in the 3C/B6 Passat it's possible to code out the bulb monitoring for individual lights, including the license plate lights. My Mk.V doesn't throw a code or show anything on the dash if a license plate bulb is out so I think it's possible in our cars as well to just code out the monitoring for license plate lights with VCDS
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
I was looking at these as well but was put off by the brightness. Are you sure they're not just equipped with built in resistors?
Absolutely positive.
The kit provided external resistors with the kit because there are no internal resistors to increase load.
I did not use the supplied external resistor.

I do have my own external resistor spliced in the license light circuit from previous bulbs,
but when I installed that resistor I also installed a switch so I could add / remove it at will.
When the resistor is engaged, no bulbs at all will still not trigger a lamp out, sensor is completely spoofed.
I am sure I have that one disengaged, as I was able to get a bulb out with just one fixture.

I don't think 18 tiny LEDs like that equal 5W or drawn power.
They are not regular LEDs, they are high intensity LEDs which draw a bit more, so 36 of them do draw the needed minimum 5 watt load.
Both license light fixtures are on one circuit, the aggregate load is enough.

Also, in the 3C/B6 Passat it's possible to code out the bulb monitoring for individual lights, including the license plate lights. ...
Don't know about 3C/B6 Passat, my experience is only mk5.
With VAG-COM, you can not completely disable monitoring of any required exterior light on a mk5.
You can delay it by disabling cold diagnostics, but not completely disable it.

My Mk.V doesn't throw a code or show anything on the dash if a license plate bulb is out so I think it's possible in our cars as well to just code out the monitoring for license plate lights with VCDS
Stock Mk5, you have to have both stock license light bulbs fail to trigger a fault.
One stock 5W incandescent bulb on that circuit is still enough to keep the sensor happy, even if the other has failed.

Yes, on a Mk5, with VAG-COM you can disable cold diagnostics,
but that does not completely disable the circuit protection.

Cold diagnostics is a test of five quick low power bursts of current that occurs each time the key is first turned on.
This allows faults to be found on startup, before you actually turn them on.

As soon as you turn on the lights, active diagnostics is always in effect.
You can not disable active monitoring on any governmental required exterior light on a Mk5.
i.e. you can completely disable fogs, but no other exterior lights.
 

ChouDawg

Null
Location
San Diego, CA
Car(s)
2014 Subaru WRX
How do you disable cold diagnostics? My parking lots strobe a bit when I first start my car up. Also you wont get a bulb out on the dash but once the computer realizes you're pulling less then 5W your plate bulbs will go out. That was what I couldn't figure out when I first got my car. The bulbs kept going out but no dash indicator.

On a side note, what size resistors are you using in the plate to fool the computer? I am running LED city lights and hoping to not run any sidemarker lights since I have smoked ones but its throwing a code. Any tips for that?
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
How do you disable cold diagnostics?
With VAG-COM

You will find what you are looking for in the
Vehicle Electrical System Controller J519 (VAG-COM 09 - Cent. Elect.) — bytes 18 & 19

Byte 18


byte 19


My parking lots strobe a bit when I first start my car up.
Yup, that is cold diagnostics.


Also you wont get a bulb out on the dash but once the computer realizes you're pulling less then 5W your plate bulbs will go out. That was what I couldn't figure out when I first got my car. The bulbs kept going out but no dash indicator.
That is not normal. If the circuit shuts down, the bulb out light should be on
and the MFD should briefly identify the source of the error.

On a side note, what size resistors are you using in the plate to fool the computer? I am running LED city lights and hoping to not run any sidemarker lights since I have smoked ones but its throwing a code. Any tips for that?
I used a RL-2525 Marker Lamp Load Resistor from superbrightleds.com
Scroll to the bototm of this page -> Super Bright LEDs - Brake Light, Turn Light and Tail Light Bulbs
 

4Motioner

4Motion, baby!
Location
Finland
Car(s)
2007 Golf V
Ah, thanks for the clarification JetTurbo. Cold diagnostics is what I was talking about with the Passat coding. I wasn't aware that the car monitors both license plate lights as one. This explains why I didn't get an error light on the dash when one of my original 5W incandescent bulbs burned out.
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
failed

D@#n. Bulb out warning today. One of the fixtures flashes slowly for less than a minute then quits.
Other one still working ok for now. Got about 8,000 mi / 3 months out of them.

Pulled it, not as dirty as I would have expected, but I am guessing moisure got in there anyway.


Frustrating :yikes:
 

dubbin

All in, All out..
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Car(s)
09 GTI
ugh...i thought this was a fail safe deal here...i almost went and got a set after reading the first post, glad i read it all.
thanx for all the updates and info, your the mkv electrical guru for sure round here hahha
 

gtnub

Ready to race!
Location
Vancouver
So are you going to go back with the 42DD bulbs?
 

Stylist07

Banned
Location
Dallas
Car(s)
MKV R32 DBP #1238
Hey JetTurbo

I have been using the LEDs from Vleds for over 1yr so far and i have NEVER had any issues at all.

I use all of the LEDs that they sell and love them all.

Plus they are real cheap.........

I use these for the city and front parking light with NO resistors and they are BRIGHT!!!!.................http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/V-LEDS-6K-WHITE-4-M-SMT-p8187987-1-2.html

I use these for the licenses plate and vanity mirrors, i only use a resistors on the licenses plate placed inside the truck..............http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/HID-6K-WHITE-M-SMT-12-p6283693.html
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
UPDATE

So are you going to go back with the 42DD bulbs?
Nah, I had a total of four of these LED fixtures,
so I just stuck another one in when the first failed.
So, to this point, one has lasted me 32k miles / one year and is still working,
one failed in 8k miles / 3 months of use,
and a third one is still working ok at 24k miles / 9 months.
Still have one new one in reserve, hope the first failue was just a fluke :iono:
 
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