I hit a curb and the passenger side wheel started to make an odd humming/moaning noise around 40-60mph. It was intermittent and hard to pin point but since I recently hit the passenger side front wheel on a curb, I suspected that was the source of this noise.
After some research, I found out that my wheel bearing/hub was the most likely cause.
I jacked up the car and tried pulling the tire at the 12 & 6 o'clock positions but the tire did not move.
After removing the tire and the brake calipers, I could move my rotor in/out about 1/4 of an inch. After removing the wheel bearing/hub, I found it had the 1/4 play.
So, when I was rolling, I suspect it was intermittently hitting the brake pads causing this humming/moaning sound.
Nevertheless, if you suspect that your wheel bearing/hub may be bad, in addition to the 12 & 6 o'clock pull test, also try removing the brake calipers and see if the rotor can be moved in/out. It should have no play at all.
I picked up a replacement wheel bearing/hub assembly from DBC Performance for about $85 shipped. *Even though the picture shows an axle bolt, they do not include an axle bolt so order one. I believe they sell the 12 point head bolt.
http://www.dbcperformance.com/product_p/1t0498621kmm.htm
Ok, on to the DIY.
*I only did the passenger side so the driver side may be different but this should provide some guidance.
*Please make sure to use a torque wrench to secure all bolts.
You can get a new axle bolt from your dealer for about $10
N91040601 - this is the standard hex bolt.
WHT002795 - this is the 12 point bolt head
4 new triple square bolts for new wheel bearing/hub - about $15 after tax from the dealer
4D0505445
Required tools:
21mm Socket - for removing brake calipers
12mm triple square socket/bit - to remove 4 rear bolts on wheel bearing/hub
T30 socket/bit - to remove rotor from hub
27mm socket - to remove axle bolt
*** Some have a standard hex bolt and some have a 12 point bolt head. Make sure to check your specific vehicle. ***
3 inch extensions for ratchet
Rubber mallet - to pound out axle from wheel hub(not shown in picture)
Torque wrench with capable range from 35-150 ft lbs.
A breaker bar to remove a seized axle bolt - these usually only come in 3/4 socket size so a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer will be needed.
Removal:
** Remove wheel and remove center cap. This is required to have access to the axle bolt with the wheel fully installed. Install wheel back on car and lower to ground.
1. Loosen axle bolt and turn it 1/4 turn MAX.
2. Jack car up and remove the wheel.
*Make sure to use some jack stands to hold up the car. Jacks are not stands. **
3. Remove axle bolt
4. Using some sort of solid pole(I used one of my old ratchet wrench handles), pound on the axle inside the wheel hub - red area in picture. When it starts to move in, you will start to see the axle thread guides/teeth.
Pound it out enough that you can grasp the axle from the rear and pull on it to tilt it toward the front or rear. I couldn't completely remove it so I left it partially near the end of the wheel hub but it gave me enough remove to remove the 4 triple square bolts to remove the wheel bearing/hub.
5. Remove the 2 brake caliper mounts held on by 21mm bolts.
Once you get the two bolts off, secure the brake calipers so they aren't hanging by the brake line.
I used a bungee cord to hang it from my springs.
6. Remove the small rotor bolt using the T30 socket/bit that secures it to the wheel hub.
*If the rotor will not come off, pound it off after removing the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
7. Using the 12mm triple square socket, remove the 4 bolts on the rear of the wheel bearing/hub. I had to tilt the axle toward the rear to get the two front bolts off then tilt it toward the rear to remove the two front bolts.
Once the 4 bolts are remove, the wheel bearing/hub assembly will come out.
Install:
1. Install wheel bearing/hub assembly. Torque the 4 triple square bolts to 80 ft lbs.
2. Put some grease inside the wheel hub teeth to help the axle slide in easily in to the hub.
3. Slide the axle into the hub. It may take some wiggling but it should slide in nice and easy once the teeth guides are matched up.
4. Install the axle bolt and tighten it enough to secure the axle but do not fully tighten.
5. Mount the brake calipers. Torque to 140 ft lbs
6. Mount the rotor. Torque bolt to 35 ft lbs.
7. Tighten axle bolt to about 120 ft lbs.
8. Install wheel. Lower car.
9. Tighten axle bolt to 148 ft lbs.
After some research, I found out that my wheel bearing/hub was the most likely cause.
I jacked up the car and tried pulling the tire at the 12 & 6 o'clock positions but the tire did not move.
After removing the tire and the brake calipers, I could move my rotor in/out about 1/4 of an inch. After removing the wheel bearing/hub, I found it had the 1/4 play.
So, when I was rolling, I suspect it was intermittently hitting the brake pads causing this humming/moaning sound.
Nevertheless, if you suspect that your wheel bearing/hub may be bad, in addition to the 12 & 6 o'clock pull test, also try removing the brake calipers and see if the rotor can be moved in/out. It should have no play at all.
I picked up a replacement wheel bearing/hub assembly from DBC Performance for about $85 shipped. *Even though the picture shows an axle bolt, they do not include an axle bolt so order one. I believe they sell the 12 point head bolt.
http://www.dbcperformance.com/product_p/1t0498621kmm.htm
Ok, on to the DIY.
*I only did the passenger side so the driver side may be different but this should provide some guidance.
*Please make sure to use a torque wrench to secure all bolts.
You can get a new axle bolt from your dealer for about $10
N91040601 - this is the standard hex bolt.
WHT002795 - this is the 12 point bolt head
4 new triple square bolts for new wheel bearing/hub - about $15 after tax from the dealer
4D0505445
Required tools:
21mm Socket - for removing brake calipers
12mm triple square socket/bit - to remove 4 rear bolts on wheel bearing/hub
T30 socket/bit - to remove rotor from hub
27mm socket - to remove axle bolt
*** Some have a standard hex bolt and some have a 12 point bolt head. Make sure to check your specific vehicle. ***
3 inch extensions for ratchet
Rubber mallet - to pound out axle from wheel hub(not shown in picture)
Torque wrench with capable range from 35-150 ft lbs.
A breaker bar to remove a seized axle bolt - these usually only come in 3/4 socket size so a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer will be needed.
Removal:
** Remove wheel and remove center cap. This is required to have access to the axle bolt with the wheel fully installed. Install wheel back on car and lower to ground.
1. Loosen axle bolt and turn it 1/4 turn MAX.
2. Jack car up and remove the wheel.
*Make sure to use some jack stands to hold up the car. Jacks are not stands. **
3. Remove axle bolt
4. Using some sort of solid pole(I used one of my old ratchet wrench handles), pound on the axle inside the wheel hub - red area in picture. When it starts to move in, you will start to see the axle thread guides/teeth.
Pound it out enough that you can grasp the axle from the rear and pull on it to tilt it toward the front or rear. I couldn't completely remove it so I left it partially near the end of the wheel hub but it gave me enough remove to remove the 4 triple square bolts to remove the wheel bearing/hub.
5. Remove the 2 brake caliper mounts held on by 21mm bolts.
Once you get the two bolts off, secure the brake calipers so they aren't hanging by the brake line.
I used a bungee cord to hang it from my springs.
6. Remove the small rotor bolt using the T30 socket/bit that secures it to the wheel hub.
*If the rotor will not come off, pound it off after removing the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
7. Using the 12mm triple square socket, remove the 4 bolts on the rear of the wheel bearing/hub. I had to tilt the axle toward the rear to get the two front bolts off then tilt it toward the rear to remove the two front bolts.
Once the 4 bolts are remove, the wheel bearing/hub assembly will come out.
Install:
1. Install wheel bearing/hub assembly. Torque the 4 triple square bolts to 80 ft lbs.
2. Put some grease inside the wheel hub teeth to help the axle slide in easily in to the hub.
3. Slide the axle into the hub. It may take some wiggling but it should slide in nice and easy once the teeth guides are matched up.
4. Install the axle bolt and tighten it enough to secure the axle but do not fully tighten.
5. Mount the brake calipers. Torque to 140 ft lbs
6. Mount the rotor. Torque bolt to 35 ft lbs.
7. Tighten axle bolt to about 120 ft lbs.
8. Install wheel. Lower car.
9. Tighten axle bolt to 148 ft lbs.
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