Car won't start, no dash service lights come on!

Dude my buddys 06 gli did the same thing we tried everything and he towed it to the dealership. On friday hope they can find the problem. This literally sounds the same as his problem....

No offense op, but how experienced are you with these cars? This can be a nightmare, but not to a well trained tech.

You say you traced wires, you didnt open the whole ecm harness did you? You need wiring diagrams, more importantly you need a bentley. Clear your faults and repost what faults are actually there without the random fuses pulled.

IIRC theres a break in one power to ecm thats common, like 10-18inches from the ecm. I dont remember pin number tho.

I'm not offended, I'm not well trained in electrical issues, I have always been somewhat of a quick learner and I'm usually up to anything auto related. I don't have a Bentley the one I did have was stolen with My car last year along with my Rosstech hex-can cable!

I traced wires by using my digital volt meter, i didn't trace all of them or I would still be at it. There is a fist full of them and honestly I didn't have the patience to check every single wire. I found a few ecu pinout diagrams for our cars but obviously not all are applicable in my case, 2008.5 Tsi motor with an MED17.1 ecu. And J.staffi told me today through email my ecu has never been cracked and has always been flash able via obd2 port.

I did find what I believe is the main power wire goin to the ecu. I can't clear most of those codes without my ecu being turned (on) the can bus system won't allow it without communication with the ecu, I found that surprising and disappointing because I did want the random non related faults cleared as we'll.

The fuses I found to not work are these,


And this one



Everything else works, and from what I have seen on some fuse diagrams is some of the pictures fuses don't receive power until tha car actually starts.

I did remove the ecu, so that I could check wiring on the plugs but it looks good I mean like new, good. Since I bought my car I keep it out if the rain most if the time and I detail/clean my car via detail spray and extra thick microfiber cloths 99.9% of the time. My car has only gotten wet 6 times since I've owned it.

So far I haven't seen anything wrong with my wires fuses or any relays. I don't think it's the ecu but since it's out and a new battery didn't help, I might as well ship it to Unitronics to rule out a malfunctioning ecu.

Last year though I was given a vag commander v4.8 from my wife's cousin, he used to fix up VWs change the mileage and sell them in Mexico. He stopped selling VW because he is too sick to (wheel and deal). I used it to clear random faults and that's how I got my IMMO pin, when I got my pin last year I remember my dash flickering in and off and the ecu reset itself (I think). I tried to use it to code an extra set if keys but the same thing happened dash flicked off them in after a few minutes it came back on. After that I tried to sell It then I just dumped it in the trash, I figured the damn thing was going to fry my cars ecu or dash!

Now my dash started flickering like it did back then only difference is my car was running when this happened! Who knows maybe my ecu was fucked with back them and I'm now paying the price of not using a Ross tech cable back then!?

I have now owned two Ross cables, the hex can cable that was stolen, and then the micro can cable I have now.

It sounds like a weird intermittent harness issue. Maybe some electronics failing in the ECU, but you would really need to send it out to have it checked. Good luck, threads like this are scary. The dealer might be able to figure this out in minutes.

I must admit that electrical repair is not my strongest skill. If there is a harness issue then I may be SOL till I can tow my car to a shop. Which I may do soon if things workout, I won't have a tow truck do it because there cost is to hi, a Uhaul rental may be a much more wallet friendly means to transport my car to Autuning.

I am going to have ecu checked first, that way if it's good it can be ruled out and narrow down my remaining possibilities.

I need to thank every one here for helping me find a solution. Gti08mkv you have helped me out big time through pm here at forum. The forge intake is yours if you want it, I'll ship it to you free of charge! Thank you, and thanks to everyone else!!!
So that others know, the relays I replaced were under the dash of the car about 8 inches from the obd2 port. There is a relay bar there that house key fuses for the electrical system of the car. I think there hidden there to stop or limit any incidental damage to them. One is a direct and sole relay for the ecu!

Np man. [emoji106]

Intake is shipped, thank you sir!!!

Btw you have a pm with tracking info!

Relays relays relays, if you think you have found them all think again! I originally found only 2, that we're good! The 2 I didn't find we're fuc&ed lol

Thanks for the intake went to a good home. On my buddys mk6 giac k04

Yea i sprayed the pipes with flameproof paint flat white. [emoji106]. Thanks again

Hi all, I have been experiencing the same issue as DLEE, only now it wont even start. The only lights that show up is just the mileage read out and the DRL light when I turn the key to the on position. I have done the following to try and remedy, replaced the Ignition switch, and replace two of the relays below the instrument panel behind that metal bar. The only relays that I could see to replace that fit the descriptions of what was replaced above were KL75 & KL15 or also labeled as B9 and B1, respectively. However, I still have the same issue, car wont start. Orginally I could wait 5 min and it would start, but now it wont. Ran a volt check last time the car was running and it was reading 13.9-14.2(when you reved it), which indicates that the alternator is working fine, when off, battery shows 12V.

Here are some pics of the relays i replaced. Any help would be awesome.. I hate electrical issues. Thanks

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/pictur...pictureid=6020
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/pictur...pictureid=6021

Well I had the same problem

I really wanna thank y'all for the help I had the same problem but with yalls help I figured it out super fast! Damn relays

Bumping an old thread for a similar problem

Vehicle is a 2007 Audi A3, 2.0T (BPY) with DSG trans, 180k miles. Electrically and mechanically identical to a GTI for all intents and purposes.
I am well-versed with electrical, but have not had to deal with a no-start condition quite like this before. To add to that, all of my tools are two hours away at work.

For several months the car would occasionally hesitate to start, acted like the battery was weak, taking two or three tries to crank. I currently have a cheapy Walmart battery, and it was only really happening if the car sat for more than a day, so I didn't think much of it. The day this no-start issue began, it did the same thing when I first started it in the morning. Drove 20 minutes before shutting it off, figured it had time to charge. Same hesitation when I started it back up five minutes later, drove another 10 minutes and parked. Tried to start it again after 5-10 minutes and it hesitated once, tried to start it again and it wouldn't even try to turn over. I've tried several times since and it still doesn't attempt to crank, nor do the dash lights dim like when the starter is drawing current. No check engine, immobilizer, or other fault lights coming on in the cluster.

I have pulled the starter and it does spin up when voltage is applied. When it was in the car I metered it and it does have constant 12v on the large 4 gauge power wire going to the starter, however I was not getting anything on the smaller trigger wire going to the solenoid while turning the key to start. I have tested every relay in the fuse box under the hood as well as under the dash to the left of the steering column, all are good (or at least they click when manually applying voltage and ground to 85 and 86.) I have 12v on the ignition wire going to the BCM with the key in at the run position, and have tried manually applying 12v to the starter wire going to the BCM while turning the key to the start position. I have also tried applying 12v to the smaller wire at the solenoid to see if the starter would turn.

Not sure if it's related, but about a month ago the key was very hard to turn from 'off' to 'run,' like to the point that I was afraid something was going to break. Once it did turn though it worked fine, and would occasionally happen but 90% of the time turned normally with no resistance. I chalked it up to unusually cold weather and figured I'd check it out when I had time. It is not doing that now, nor was it happening the day that the car began refusing to start.

My first thought before testing anything was that something gave out in the ignition switch/cylinder, but I spoke with a friend who is a tech at an Audi dealer and he said he has never seen an ignition switch go bad, and that when they stick like that some graphite will fix it. Based on the symptoms, he suspected the starter is bad or the engine is seized (this was prior to pulling the starter and testing it out of the car.) My thoughts are that if the engine were seized the starter would still try to turn and the lights would dim as it draws current, which is not happening. I suspect there is some electrical fault further up the chain, especially since the solenoid wire is not being energized when turning the key. I have not yet tried turning the engine by hand as I am lacking the correct tool here. On top of that, I took my meter back to work and forgot it, so I'm about to run out and go buy one.

dleej30- I'm not sure what ended up being the solution to your problem. Was it a fuse or relay for the ECU? Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks!

P.S. Further info- Battery is charged and I've also tried starting it with a jump pack connected. Tried two different keys as well. The cluster display indicates that it is in park, and I have moved the shifter out of park and back a few times. Won't start in neutral either, just though I didn't expect it to. The car is APR tuned and has been since it was under a year old, flashed through the OBD port. I don't have access to my Vag-com cable at this time either, unfortunately.

I have the exact same issue right now with a 2008 GTI. No lights on the dash other than the MFD and the DRL light. No crank and no start. I also had/have the same weak cranking issue leading up to this. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what you found out? Did you fix the issue? What was the solution? Any help would be great. Thanks!