Neopork
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Rochester, MN
Hi folks,
I have a really drastic negative camber on the right rear of my 09 GTI.
If first noticed it while driving across the country last year to relocate and we were towing a trailer that was probably 600 to 750 lbs. In retrospect, I am wondering if the eccentric camber bolt was not tight enough and the added weight of the trailer for that long made it slip to its max negative setting.
Anyway, I took it in for an alignment (finally...) and they said they cannot do the adjustment because the camber adjustment bolt is seized and recommended replacing the ENTIRE CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY, which would take this from a sub-$100 repair to a several hundred dollar repair. It was my understanding that the main concern was the bolt, and if they torched it, they would melt the bushing on the upper control arm.
Perhaps I misunderstood what they meant, but after looking at the diagrams, it really looks like I could cut out the seized camber bolt and replace the eccentric bolt, washer, and nut and be good to go with factory camber adjustment. Is there any reason to replace the upper control arm in this case? Is the control arm bushing threaded, or is it just a straight tube and is secured by tightening the bolt on the other side?
Second page, numbers 10, 9, 12.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/golfgoodies/rear axle.pdf
Thanks!
Neo
I have a really drastic negative camber on the right rear of my 09 GTI.
If first noticed it while driving across the country last year to relocate and we were towing a trailer that was probably 600 to 750 lbs. In retrospect, I am wondering if the eccentric camber bolt was not tight enough and the added weight of the trailer for that long made it slip to its max negative setting.
Anyway, I took it in for an alignment (finally...) and they said they cannot do the adjustment because the camber adjustment bolt is seized and recommended replacing the ENTIRE CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY, which would take this from a sub-$100 repair to a several hundred dollar repair. It was my understanding that the main concern was the bolt, and if they torched it, they would melt the bushing on the upper control arm.
Perhaps I misunderstood what they meant, but after looking at the diagrams, it really looks like I could cut out the seized camber bolt and replace the eccentric bolt, washer, and nut and be good to go with factory camber adjustment. Is there any reason to replace the upper control arm in this case? Is the control arm bushing threaded, or is it just a straight tube and is secured by tightening the bolt on the other side?
Second page, numbers 10, 9, 12.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/golfgoodies/rear axle.pdf
Thanks!
Neo