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DIY: Tips for Intake Valve Carbon Cleaning and Intake Manifold Removal

Neopork

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Rochester, MN
Hi guys and gals,

I know there are many DIY's on intake removal and carbon cleaning on GTIs, but I felt there were a few items that were not properly addressed and a couple issues that I ran into that hopefully others can avoid. I made a "top tips" .pdf that goes through all of these. This is more of a supplement to the other existing resources than a reiteration.

Here's what the .pdf covers:

  1. Materials needed for intake manifold removal and install:
  2. Materials needed for carbon clean-out:
  3. Torque Specifications
  4. Battery & Fuel pump
  5. Oil filter
  6. M10 triple square and the bolt from hell
  7. Covering the injector holes
  8. Cleaning the valves
  9. Turning the crank bolt
  10. Teflon injector seals, removal and installation (without the special VW tools)
  11. Cleaning the manifold seal on the block

Hope this is helpful for any other DIY'ers.

One tip I forgot - even though it may seem obvious, cover your open oil filter port with a plastic bag so you don't get engine dirt and carbon crap in there.
 

Attachments

  • Neopork' carbon cleaning tips.pdf
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Last edited:

PapaBonk

New member
If that doesn't work post back.
Tried it on my notebook without logging in..... As Borat would say: Great Success!!!! Must be issue with Tapatalk app on my phone..... thanks for your help

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
 

Neopork

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Rochester, MN
Tried it on my notebook without logging in..... As Borat would say: Great Success!!!! Must be issue with Tapatalk app on my phone..... thanks for your help

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

Sorry P-Bonk,
I was just about to send it but I see that you were able to get to it another way. Hope it helps! Let me know if you have any follow up questions. Pretty straightforward, just takes a long time.
 

Stevewilson1983

New member
Location
Guelph, ON
I just finished cleaning mine, about 110,000km (68k miles). Mine were bad, but not terrible. No problems yet, but I plan to sell my tdi in the spring, so this is the only winter I'll own my gti and not be driving it.

I was wondering what you guys thought about cutting the head off the "satan bolt" (manifold support bracket to block), but still installing the remaining piece of "threaded rod". I found I had to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold (which was a huge pain in the ass and means I have to buy another gasket) to be able to access that bolt (at least with my limited triple square bit set), but I was thinking if it were just a piece of threaded rod, it would still support the intake manifold from twisting downwards (which I assume is the only reason for that &^%$ bracket). It seems to be about the same angle as the two (lower, outer) manifold-to-head studs, so removing the manifold in the future would skip removing the throttle body, possibly (but I'm not sure) be able to skip dipstick tube removal, and still have all the benefits of that support bracket.

I know some people throw that bracket away completely, but this seems to be the best of both worlds.

*Edit* I should add, this is the bpy engine
 
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Stevewilson1983

New member
Location
Guelph, ON
I actually have another question. So I finished putting my car (fsi) back together after cleaning my valves. When I took the manifold off, all the blue seals between the fuel injectors and the fuel rail stayed in the fuel rail (all injectors stayed in the head). Since all of them did this, I assumed it was how it was supposed to be. Well I got it back together, and there's fuel leaking everywhere. So I'm guessing that I should have taken them out of the fuel rail and put them on the injectors.. Just looking to confirm that this is correct and if there's any specific procedure I have to follow regarding installing them.. None of the .pdfs I've seen cover this.

Thanks
 
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