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Removing the steering column lock assembly in an MKV Rabbit

Rabbit_Voyou

An attractive cake
Location
Vero Beach, Fl
Lord help me, I am going to get this done.

That being said, maybe one of you could be of service too.

I'm trying to remove the steering column lock assembly, I have made it as far as removing the steering wheel, removing the electronics under the steering column, but now I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the turn signal and wiper levers.

I've followed the instructions here, and even though it isn't the exact same vehicle as mine, its worked perfectly until this:

"To remove the lock cylinder you may have to remove the clockspring and turn signals. It should be obvious how to remove them now that the trim is off. There are a few tiny torx screws and plastic hooks."

There is nothing obvious about this part. I can't figure out how to get beyond this point.

Has anyone done this? Is it possible someone has done a DIY?

Thanks in advance.
 
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To remove the lock cyl you dont need to remove all that. Theres a pin to release the cylinder with the key in. Its tricky.

To continue how youre going, theres the control module under the stalks, remove the t8 in front, disconnect all the connectors, pull down on the module. Dont break it, it costs 350. The stalks just plug into that module, then they unclip from the back.
 

Rabbit_Voyou

An attractive cake
Location
Vero Beach, Fl
To remove the lock cyl you dont need to remove all that. Theres a pin to release the cylinder with the key in. Its tricky.

To continue how youre going, theres the control module under the stalks, remove the t8 in front, disconnect all the connectors, pull down on the module. Dont break it, it costs 350. The stalks just plug into that module, then they unclip from the back.


I've already replace the ignition lock cylinder, the problem I ran into is after putting it in, the steering column would not unlock, and the key wouldn't even turn as far as the on position.

So, now I'm looking at pulling the steering column lock assembly -- the metal assembly between the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch.

Looking at pictures of the stalks give me a pretty good idea of how they come off, but it's not as clear when you're looking at it.

Thank you for the info. Any additional from anyone is greatly appreciated.
 
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tur

New member
Location
Bucharest, Romania
Car(s)
VW Golf MKV
Please, tell me how did you remove the two bolts (they look something like torx screw with large head and tiny hole for the torx key that have been filled with some plastic stuff).
I am facing the same issue as you with the steering wheel and key, so I decided to take out the lock assembly.
 

iowarabbit

cornfed.
Location
IOWA
Car(s)
07K '09 Audi TT
Please, tell me how did you remove the two bolts (they look something like torx screw with large head and tiny hole for the torx key that have been filled with some plastic stuff).
I am facing the same issue as you with the steering wheel and key, so I decided to take out the lock assembly.
Common practice is to cut a deep enough notch with a file, saw, or rotary tool to allow you to remove with a flathead screwdriver. Same method as ecu removal, just harder to get to get at with the plastic in the way.
 

fastwire

Ready to race!
Location
chile
thread revival.

I need to do this on the next days as my key fob will hardly turn to on position.

Question: how to reinstall the airbag clockspring? it just slides out when removing but is supossed to not spin or dis-align itself when out? thanks in advance.

edit: lol.. doing the homework just realized that is the most basic part of the job. Anyway if anybody knows or have a tip for this and the overall procedure is welcome. I already know how to remove the trimming, stalks, steering wheel, control module, cylinder lock, and tumber for key.
 
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fastwire

Ready to race!
Location
chile
Boom!

 

hopefulsoul

New member
Location
160k north of 0
A few questions

I literally have to tackle this project myself as well this month :)

1) Can you please tell me (show with pics if you have em?) how you removed the wiper and turn signal controls?

I assume they come out in one piece but i didnt want to unscrew the wrong thing and blow it into a million, or break another clip/tang (god TANG tang on the steering control module on my 2007 rabbit...the clip in the front was impossible to get to...pressed the one in the back by hand and ended up breaking the front heh)

2) were you able to remove the lock cylinder with the housing still mounted around the steering column ?

3) how did you drill out the shear bolts? i'm either missing something as far as clearance gains by not having removed the aforementioned items in number 1, or i simply need a smaller drill and bit combo to get in there...my drill with bit hits the top lip of the gauge cluster at just such an angle that i would shred more plastic than the bolt itself

4) Curious if you found you only needed to replace the lock cylinder itself or the housing? or perhaps open the housing and clean out any debris? I can't yet decipher if my issue is the cylinder or any part of the housings insides being mangled for the steering lock / starter motor protection. my key goes in and turns the first click...maybe 45 degrees at best but goes no further. what were your symptoms? (yeah i got lucky with the final click to start it up and get it home a few weeks ago, praying for one more click to get it to ACC/ON to try and remove the cylinder without drilling)

thank you!
 

fastwire

Ready to race!
Location
chile
hey man. I have an Audi A3, but its pretty much the same.
What I used for everything was youtube, its all there.
I can search the links for the videos from my laptop when I arrive home.


I literally have to tackle this project myself as well this month :)

1) Can you please tell me (show with pics if you have em?) how you removed the wiper and turn signal controls?

It easy but tricky: It has 2 clips, one on the rear by the lower side, its easily visible, the other more hidden by the inside side.


watch the end of this vid and the beggining of the next part of it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEZI0Iu-gM4

2) were you able to remove the lock cylinder with the housing still mounted around the steering column ?
yes, you need to trim lots of plastic, this plastic is vital, it hold the turn signal markers, so you need to cut precise to access the snap bolts. I used a lighter and the chisel.

3) how did you drill out the shear bolts?

you need to cut trough all that plastic, I will provide pic when arrive home.
no need to drill:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f01ul35Y-U&feature=youtu.be

I used exact method with succesful easyness. its easy, just use a chisel and hummer. use gloves.


4) Curious if you found you only needed to replace the lock cylinder itself or the housing? or perhaps open the housing and clean out any debris? I can't yet decipher if my issue is the cylinder or any part of the housings insides being mangled for the steering lock / starter motor protection. my key goes in and turns the first click...maybe 45 degrees at best but goes no further. what were your symptoms? (yeah i got lucky with the final click to start it up and get it home a few weeks ago, praying for one more click to get it to ACC/ON to try and remove the cylinder without drilling)

Its the assembly, whats is described in this video, you just have to remove the key lock with a wire trough the hole. If you can't turn it fully to the on position then you can't remove the lock cylinder, so to remove it, try this:
when you acces the steering lock, (after removing control module and springclock etc,) tap it with a hummer on the underside and the side where the key lock is, you tap it preferably with a soft head hummer, and then moving and whiggling the key it will fully turn.
If it still doesnt come out, remove the fob part and with the blade use pliers and move it.
Its better to replace with a new unit but here's the video to fix it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nykkay9TuIw



thank you!
 
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hopefulsoul

New member
Location
160k north of 0
I was able to get back to and complete this project. A word of caution when hammering the shear bolts through the slits you can (should) cut (See my photos)....the angle of the chisel / flathead is very important. if you are not just BARELY grazing the bolt head, and are instead more "on it" you will only dig into it and not turn it. it can be frustrating but you have to keep angling the screwdriver/chisel towards the apex of the turning point of the bolt.

anyway for those that may need it, here is the dremel bit i used to make the holes in the plastic. as fastwire indicates, be careful, you dont want to go much outside what you see here as you could cut into important plastic that holds the turn signal markers and windshield wiper components on.

Also, in the photo at the joining edge of the vertical and horizontal line (or top of vertical line when looking at right side) there is some THICKER plastic. to make room for the proper angle of my tool i had to make sure to remove that (in other words, go as far to the left / right as you see in the photo) you just kind of have to continuously press back and forth with the dremel bit shown and even angle it a bit so the tip of the bit hits the joining point of the thick plastic tab towards the top, to the other plastic.
 

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707Stang

I'm Hella From Nor*Cal
Location
Nor*Cal
I wish I had seen this thread when it was 1st posted...
 
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