How To Paint Your Lowers at Home The Correct Way

[08AhdowbanGTI]

So i posted pictures of my painted lowers in another section on this site and a lot of people wanted a full DIY so here it is from un-install to install!

MATERIALS:

300 Gritt Sandpaper X 4 pieces
600 Gritt Sandpaper X 4 Pieces
4 Cans of Duplicolor color code LB9A X 4
4 Cans of Duplicolor Clear Coat
3 Cans of Rustoleoum Sandable Primer (Light Grey)
1 Can of Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter
1 Roll of Tape
1 Roll of painters paper


1.) Remove all of your trim. Dont take the easy way out and just tape them off. It will come out bad , you will have tape lines, just take them off.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4006.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4008.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4009.jpg

REMOVAL INSTRUCTION
Front Lip
a.) Start By Removing the hex screw attaching your fender well liner to the front bumper.
b.) Working your way around the under side of the front lip remove the hex screws that retain the lower lip to the underside of the bumper. (should be 6 or 7 total)

Note: While under your front bumper note how the lip fits over the rest of the plastic underside of the front bumper, this will be key when reinstalling.

c.) After working all the way around the bumper and removing the opposite side fender well screw you are ready to remove the lip.

d.) Grasp the lip inside of the fender well and pull towards you. You will need to pull relatively hard to remove the lip. (Wear gloves , i cut my hand up pretty bad with this next part) Using your had to keep the bumper seperate from the lip, work your way around the bumper pulling out on the lip as you go.
NOTE: the Center of the lip is a real BIOTCH to get off!

e.) Smile because you got the front lip off !

Side Skirts
a.) Remove the hex screws located in the front fender well (1) under the side skirt (3) NOTE : How they are attached to the circular openings in the side skirt, and finally the rear fender well (1)

b.) Starting in the rear fender well slowly pull the side skirt towards you and up. Key is UP as there is an additional attachment on the inside of the skirt that WILL break if you pull out only. Work the 3M tape loose from the upper portion of the side skirt.

c.) Pull up and out on the side skirt and it should fall off the car for you.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4006.jpg

Rear Valence
NOTE: Alot yourself at least 45 minutes to 1 hour to uninstall this piece. I was able to leave the wheels on the vehicle for this portion but you may find it much easier to remove the wheels.

Great Removal Instructions Here!

http://www.namotorsports.net/docs/riegermkvgtirearapron.pdf

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4008.jpg


2.) Now that you have your parts removed its time to decide how you want the finish to turn out like. If you want it smooth you will want to follow every step in this DIY, if you dont mind the textured look skip all of the sanding and move to the cleaning... Your choice.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4009.jpg

Smooth
Some members have said that they smoothed the surface out by using filler primer. This technique will work however i do not recommend doing that as it will only allow more opportunity to crack!



TO MAKE THIS FASTER I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BUYING AN ORBITAL SANDER!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4013.jpg

a.) Starting with 180 Gritt Sand the bumps off of your pieces.
-Change your paper about halfway through each piece.

b.) Use 600 Grit to smooth the surface out even more.

When you are done the surface should feel smooth to the touch .

3.) CLEAN YOUR PIECES !! I used the following method.
a.) -Hot water
- Dishwashing soap ( to cut the grease)
-RINSE

b.) Clean Rag , Denatured alchohol, lots of elbow grease.

NOTE: be sure to let these pieces dry out all the way. Nothing will ruin your paint worse than a bead of water sneaking across your paint!



4.) Ready to start the painting process?

BEfore you start this section Practice with the extra can of paint on a piece of cardboard. Us a fanning motion and twist your rist away from the surface you are painting in a "flicking" motion. Each coat should overlap 50% of the last pass. This technique will provide a smooth coverage with no lines.

-
Keep your hand a steady distance away from the surface and move at a steady pace.

-Do not stop spraying until you complete your pass. Wait to shake the can after you have passed over the surface.

-If your can starts to spit inthe middle of a pass stop, shake the can, and "check" spray it on your test piece. If it still spits its time for a new can.

-Heavier does not mean hold the can closer it refers to moving the can slower across the surface.


a.) Spray each of your pieces with 2 coats of adhesion promoter. First coat light, second coat should be heavy enough you can see the plastic get slightly wet.

WAIT 5 Minutes and get your primer ready!

b.) I used 3 coats of primer 15 min flash time in between, hand sanding in between each coat with 600 gritt.

5.) After You allow the primer to dry completely (should only be around 15 minutes after your last coat.

Clean your pieces again with denatured alcohol and then with a lint free rag wipe them off.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4014.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4016.jpg
Repeat the adhesion promoter step.

6.) I used 4 coats of color on each piece with 10 minute flash times in between. Start light on these coats. Your first coat should look like spots placed closely together all over the surface.

Your second coat should connect these dots and provide a light coverage over the entire piece.

Repeat for the third step.

Fourth coat should be laid down fairly heavy, be careful not to put any runs in your paint at this point.

ALLOW TO DRY FOR 2 -24hrs (mine dried over night)

7.) CLEAR COAT

Follow the same procedure for the first 3 coats of clear as you did in the color.

Your fourth coat should be significantly heavier than all of the others you have done.

Allow 20 minute flash times in between coats of clear.

YOUR DONE!!!!!

Let the pieces sit for several hours before re-installing as you have to press very hard on them to snap them back into place.

When reinstalling the side skirts remember to re attach the top section with a strip of 3M tape.


This picture looks as thought the colors are off however notice how well it matches in the sun as opposed to the shade. Variations due to camera and shade make it appear this way however it DOES MATCH PERFECTLY!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG_4017.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/IMG00079.jpg


MORE PICTURES TO FOLLOW

[HipToss]

You rock bro!!!

Edit: You did not wet sand the clear?

You also state this: "Some members have said that they smoothed the surface out by using filler primer. This technique will work however i do not recommend doing that as it will only allow more opportunity to crack!"

You have seen this happen before? From what I have read, this is the reason why filler primer was made???

-HT

[Raven6t9]

Nice, wish this would work for black though, I'd have to get the paint match cant from the dealer. How long have you had it on and how does it hold up to chipping? Do you have any updated shots of the front lip?

[Meat]

Awesome write up. Looks good too.

[Raven6t9]

This does look very good however, if you are worried about it matching perfectly, you can get rattle cans of your paint from the dealer, but it will always be a little 'off' since you have to take into account that youre matching paint that has been on your body and has slightly faded, and that you are painting plastic and the body is painted metal. But this is about as close as you will ever get, and no one will notice but you.
Great job Ahdowban!:thumbup:

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Nice, wish this would work for black though, I'd have to get the paint match cant from the dealer. How long have you had it on and how does it hold up to chipping? Do you have any updated shots of the front lip?

This was on an 08 with 5000 miles on it. IT has only been on for about 2 weeks however when i was reinstalling the lips i had to literally kick the center of the front lip to get it back on correctly and nothing chipped! Strong!

It will definately work on black just go to

https://www.duplicolor.com/duplicolor/step2.php

[pakubear]

how long did it take you from start to finish? great write up by the way

[MKvUltra]

Nice work :w00t:

[08AhdowbanGTI]

This took about 9 hours over 2 days. Most of the time is spent on the drying phase and set up phase.

[Raven6t9]

This was on an 08 with 5000 miles on it. IT has only been on for about 2 weeks however when i was reinstalling the lips i had to literally kick the center of the front lip to get it back on correctly and nothing chipped! Strong!
Great, sounds strong.
Let us know how it looks after some good freeway miles, thats the real test.

[Raven6t9]

It will definately work on black
Im not too sure, have you seen the BMP paint? Its not just black, its way different, and putting just a black next to it will look WAY off. Anyone with a BMP will agree. But as long as you get the cans of paint from the dealer you shoul be fine.

Edit: How many cans did you use? Was all 4 cans needed?

[08AhdowbanGTI]

I went through all 4 cans completely, no more no less worked out perfect!

[Raven6t9]

I went through all 4 cans completely, no more no less worked out perfect!
Thanks!:thumbup:
I think Im going to see how much the dealer charges for four cans of BMP.

$3,000:eyebulge: lol j/k:wink:

[ReflexMkV]

Probably be a little over 100 dollars. You get cans of clearcoat too.

[Raven6t9]

Someone should sticky this so I can find it when Im ready. Maybe we can use some adhesion promoter so we know the sticky will stay there. :lol:

[Redstripe]

please sticky this!!! or add it to the DIY or something!

Great write up!

[Raven6t9]

OMG Reflex, your sig is HORRIBLE!!! lol! HE'S STILL SINGING EVEN THOUGH THE WINDOW IS CLOSED AND GONE!!! YOU SUCK!!!!:wink:
Anyone thinking about clicking his sig, DONT!!!!!
The worst part, is thats the 2nd time that can appeared on my computer today!

STILL SINGING!!!!:mad:

[ruffellprefley]

now all i've got to do is find a clean garage...

[Meat]

this is a good place to get OEM paint colors: http://www.paintscratch.com/

[ReflexMkV]

OMG Reflex, your sig is HORRIBLE!!! lol! HE'S STILL SINGING EVEN THOUGH THE WINDOW IS CLOSED AND GONE!!! YOU SUCK!!!!:wink:
Anyone thinking about clicking his sig, DONT!!!!!
The worst part, is thats the 2nd time that can appeared on my computer today!

STILL SINGING!!!!:mad:

Blame it on Stranded in Daytona and Meat it's their fault. LOL I said Don't click it! :biggrin:

[Rcbowman]

Another place to get color matched paint.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

[-wiretap-]

this is a good place to get OEM paint colors: http://www.paintscratch.com/

Best place to order from IMO. They get color matching perfect, have excellent customer support if something is screwed up, and they ship fast. I had a yellow mitsu lancer that I ordered paint for from there, and it matched perfect. Their paint kits come with great instruction as well for people that don't know how to paint. I never really did automotive paint prior to that, and everything turned out near perfect.
Reference pic of my paintjob (grill and eyelids):
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/wiretap25/My%20Cars/Lancer/DSCN0675.jpg

[jabtsi]

Nice :bow:

[Raven6t9]

Did a little research on the two links above. For a single spray can of BMP shipped to my house in Ca.:
http://www.paintscratch.com/: $33.90
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/: $27.75

[LBKEN41]

Sweet write up. I hope to be doing this soon.

[Raven6t9]

I love the title of the thread, lol. . . . .Well you start by a good thorough cleaning of your lowers. . . .lol

[nikitynick]

anyone know the price from the dealer on the OEM rattle cans?

[omegach]

great write-up, gonna have to bookmark this for when i give it a shot

[Uberryan]

last i checked dealer price was $20

[Raven6t9]

anyone know the price from the dealer on the OEM rattle cans?
last i checked dealer price was $20
Damn, beat me to it. Yeah thats what I heard too. Not bad actually, figure $100 plus tax for a good paint match paint job. Not bad at all.
:thumbup:

[VDubVirus]

OP ~ can you PDF this? would be awesome to have for download. I live near you, wanna help me?

[Raven6t9]

I love near you, wanna help me?
Ha ha! I cought it before you changed it!!! :wink:

[VDubVirus]

bastard.


EDIT: This post is # 13337 SUPER LEEET

[Raven6t9]

I had to, because Im jealous of your 13k+ posts!:eyebulge: :dnftt: :wink:

[VDubVirus]

lol. Jealousy is an ugly thing.


I will say. I have learned a lot in my 13k+ posts.

[Raven6t9]

Lol, good. I would hope so. I was actually just thinking about that when I saw that, I was thinking, 'wow, I wonder how much info could be learned in 13,333 posts?'

[08AhdowbanGTI]

OP ~ can you PDF this? would be awesome to have for download.

I can work on a PDF with more pictures over the weekend so that everyone can download this. I think a sticky might solve this a little better than a PDF however.


I live near you, wanna help me?


Sure when were you thinking about doing this?

[VDubVirus]

June. when i get home from Iraq.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

nice . That explains the 13K posts.... let me know when your back.

[GTI2007]

Very nice write-up

[Uberryan]

now did you use an orbital sander on your's or do you just recommend it?

[08AhdowbanGTI]

After doing the first side skirt by hand and taking 2 hours to do it, i switched to the orbital and i got the rest of the pieces done in under 1.5 hrs. HIGHLY RECOMMEND using the sander.

FYI i used a 5" orbital and found it rather difficult to get into the small curves of the bumper. If you can get one that is shaped like a clothing iron. Similar to the black and decker mouse but bigger.

[Uberryan]

hmm interesting, i'll have to look for one. Hopefully it won't cost me an arm and leg.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Would highly recommend this one...

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImage/315b3fda-0883-4628-84fa-2a6cbfa0481b_300.jpg

29.97 at HomeDepot.

I used this one....

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImage/ce22e86f-c4b4-4700-a78c-3c82a140587e_300.jpg

39.97

[gti=sexy]

Did a little research on the two links above. For a single spray can of BMP shipped to my house in Ca.:
http://www.paintscratch.com/: $33.90
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/: $27.75

just read thru the thread
dood, paintscratch.com's home base is in san leandro, only $24 or $25 a can from the shop and you only hafta wait 30ish minutes for them to mix it.


back to the original write up
if you want your clear coat to shine up you are going to have to sand it.
1000 grit wet sand
then 2000 grit wet sand or rubbing compound will do the same.

and another trick I learned thats worked quite well
when applying the clear coat do 1 thin coat, wait 20 mins, then do a really thick coat. thats all you need.

[nikitynick]

think ill pick up that corner orbital sander, is it only used to shave off the texture?

[Uberryan]

think ill pick up that corner orbital sander, is it only used to shave off the texture?

yup, you can use it for the texture, and then you can probabbly use it to sand the primer again.

OP would know better than I though.

[SevenW]

Bloody awesome post!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbup:

I'm going to be painting my plastic bits soon, got the paint got the stuff, just need the time now!

[Stranded in Daytona]

Blame it on Stranded in Daytona and Meat it's their fault. LOL I said Don't click it! :biggrin:

Hey Hey Hey! Don't you dare try to blame us! hahaha

[08AhdowbanGTI]

back to the original write up
if you want your clear coat to shine up you are going to have to sand it.
1000 grit wet sand
then 2000 grit wet sand or rubbing compound will do the same.

This is true , however for simplicity i thought i would leave out the wet sanding portion. You can complete this for a final step followed by a quick machine polish , however that just adds more cost to this DIY and can be done later. I have an orbital buffer but most people dont.

think ill pick up that corner orbital sander, is it only used to shave off the texture?

You can use this for any of the sanding you need to do in this DIY. I would however recommend HAND sanding in between coats of primer and any sanding you might need to do during the remainder of the painting process. (i.e. if you get a run , something in the pain, or clear) The electric sanders move at a very high speed and can "burn" through all of your paint. Also, when hand sanding you should move your hand in one direction the whole time you work on a piece. This provides a much more uniform finish.

[nikitynick]

do you by chance know if for all colors a white primer should be used? i have BMP going with OEM paint, but not positive on which primer to use, dont want the color coming out slightly darker/lighter

[saucer]

Great DIY - I'm getting closer and closer to making this happen.

[Uberryan]

do you by chance know if for all colors a white primer should be used? i have BMP going with OEM paint, but not positive on which primer to use, dont want the color coming out slightly darker/lighter

i would use a standard grey primer. Not white, or dark grey. That would seem to be whats under the car's paint at least. I could be wrong.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

do you by chance know if for all colors a white primer should be used? i have BMP going with OEM paint, but not positive on which primer to use, dont want the color coming out slightly darker/lighter

i would use a standard grey primer. Not white, or dark grey. That would seem to be whats under the car's paint at least. I could be wrong.

With BMP it wont matter that much at all. Your color is so dark that anything you use is going to be lighter than your intended result. Just use the medium gray NOT the dark so you can actually see what areas havent been covered with BMP yet. If you use to dark it can actually get kind of hard to see your coverage.

[Uberryan]

With BMP it wont matter that much at all. Your color is so dark that anything you use is going to be lighter than your intended result. Just use the medium gray NOT the dark so you can actually see what areas havent been covered with BMP yet. If you use to dark it can actually get kind of hard to see your coverage.

yup my thoughts exactly.

[The 100 octane kid]

At first i thought you were crazy. But when i seen the final pics it looks good.

[natypes]

correct and spray paint should never be used in the same thread.

[top rope pasta]

Where can I get the Duplicolor spray can in LB9A? I went to several autozone and oreilly but none of them carry it. :(

[HipToss]

Where can I get the Duplicolor spray can in LB9A? I went to several autozone and oreilly but none of them carry it. :(

Check www.paintscratch.com

[ZoomBy]

how many cans of what oz are you guys using?

4 cans of 12oz
or 4 cans of 5 oz?

[Uberryan]

12oz

[saucer]

the 4oz cans are tie-knee! I barely had enough with one can to paint my interior trim pieces.

[HipToss]

OP,

How has the paint been holding up?

[ZoomBy]

thanks for the help

[08AhdowbanGTI]

This is still doing great on my plastic pieces. Ill post up some pics later today. I would recommend using the color match from the dealership. Little more expensive but easier to find.

[HipToss]

This is still doing great on my plastic pieces. Ill post up some pics later today. I would recommend using the color match from the dealership. Little more expensive but easier to find.

Would love to see some updated shots. Close-ups! I want to see how smooth it looks?

[mikegabriel]

x2 on more pictures. I am interested. Only thing holding me back is the lack of garage. Hah.

[salukiwildcat]

wow man, kudos on a great DIY tutorial. I've planned on doing this for a while, so thanks for the info!

[thez19]

I would maybe try this, but I have similar hold-backs including the lack of a garage and no knowledge of automotive painting. And i know if I did this myself, id prob fuck something up n be kickin my ass. Cant you get the dealer to sand these peices down like this and basecoat paint and clearcoat them for a price? I would honestly rather have a prof. do this, dont get me wrong thou if i had a garage id be all over this.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

I would maybe try this, but I have similar hold-backs including the lack of a garage and no knowledge of automotive painting. And i know if I did this myself, id prob fuck something up n be kickin my ass. Cant you get the dealer to sand these peices down like this and basecoat paint and clearcoat them for a price? I would honestly rather have a prof. do this, dont get me wrong thou if i had a garage id be all over this

At this point just pay a body shop to do it. This DIY is meant to be inexpensive. The scenario you just described is going to cost you $600+

[C_Block]

hey just asking, do you like the lower black part on the bumper?(tailpipe area) i was thinking of doing this, i might go soild white? what you think?

[top rope pasta]

My closest dealership don't even carry spray can paint, just the touch up pen...sucks...

[-wiretap-]

My closest dealership don't even carry spray can paint, just the touch up pen...sucks...
Hello, welcome to the internet.
www.paintscratch.com

[thez19]

Hello, welcome to the internet.
www.paintscratch.com

Wire dont be a dick, he wasnt asking for a place to buy paint, just sayin his dealer didnt have shit

[-wiretap-]

That's what I was saying. Screw the dealer. They'd overcharge anyway. Internet ordering ftw.

[thez19]

That's what I was saying. Screw the dealer. They'd overcharge anyway. Internet ordering ftw.

Indeed, I wouldnt go to a dealer for somethin like this honestly, id rather a tune shop or someone do it, fucking dealer is just money money money.

[Uberryan]

Indeed, I wouldnt go to a dealer for somethin like this honestly, id rather a tune shop or someone do it, fucking dealer is just money money money.

im sorry, but most "tune shops" don't specialize in paint.

the establishment you meant to say should've been "Body shop" ......k?


and wire wasn't being a dick, you just assumed he was. Welcome to the internet, now get back to work, nave.

[Nataraki]

26509

I was thinking of painting my lowers as well and I'm contemplating on the idea of doing a gloss black paint of that rear bumper lower portion 'left-out' as seen on this pix....what do you guys think? have anyone done this? any pix or link? thanks!...

[C_Block]

well i ask before what you thought of soild white like this pic http://www.tkomotorwerks.com/images/media/oettingerMKV-GTI-Body-Kit-2.gif not stock bumper but same idea. but i thought there would be chiping of paint and burnt marks or carbon bild up from the exhaust. idk? but the black high gloss would be cool. i'll do some more searching.

[saucer]

Skil
Palm Grip Finishing Sander (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=237112-353-7300-01&lpage=none)

I just grabbed one of these at Lowe's for $40. Has lots of attachments and plenty of paper to get you started. Should make short work of that texture...

[Meat]

That was 4 cans of paint for all of the lowers? Do you think I could get away with 3 if I'm just doing the sides and front lip?

[mikegabriel]

I would think so Meat. Most of the spray would be used on the rear anyways.

[Meat]

I would think so Meat. Most of the spray would be used on the rear anyways.

That's what I was thinking. There is a lot of surface area there.

[mikegabriel]

Yeah, the surface area on the rear should take that extra can and then some of the others. I'd say 3 is safe. I am thinking of doing my front lip first since this is the first time I have tackled something this big. Then if I screw up it isn't that noticeable. Black magic isn't hard to match either.

[Toeknee]

This is an awesome thread which got me really enthusiastic about getting a gti (i'm buying a car soon), since I'm all over asthetics and the default black crud around the car were not cutting it for me.

But I just want to make sure I'm on the right page. Is the lower you painted the same thing as the black plastic molding with the little texture bumps, that comes with the stock car?

I talked to the dealer today, apparently he worked in bodyshop before, and I got some disappointing comments from him. He says paint wont stick on that plastic even with adhesive primer, and you would need to sand literally 1/4 of the thickness away to get rid of the textures.

I'm seriously hoping that this is still doable, and the dealer was just talking crap. Could I please get some reassurance that it's still doable? Or was I thinking about the wrong kind of "lower"?

Also, I'm curious about a couple things:
1) my garage tend to be a little dusty. would that screw everything up if I dont' do it somewhere nicer?
2) What's the likelihood of screwing something up? Any headsups?
3) What kind of masking method did you do to get the rear valence to stay partially black? Masking tape would leak slightly no matter what, from my experience.

Thanks for the help :)

[Wild Hare]

That's amazing for a rattle can!

[Meat]

Also, I'm curious about a couple things:
1) my garage tend to be a little dusty. would that screw everything up if I dont' do it somewhere nicer?
2) What's the likelihood of screwing something up? Any headsups?
3) What kind of masking method did you do to get the rear valence to stay partially black? Masking tape would leak slightly no matter what, from my experience.

Thanks for the help :)

1. As long as you don't have any dust flying around while your paint is drying you'll be fine. A few drop cloths can also help out.
2. not sure, haven't done it
3.Any good painters tape will work fine. Even if you have a few tiny bits of seeping you will not be able to see them from the angle that the bumper is mounted at.

[Toeknee]

yeah, not flying dust but I got whole bunch of cardboard boxes in my garage and some of them are collecting dust...just pray that a gust of wind wont come by...

by the way, are we talking about painting the black-plastic molding with tiny checkered bumps? Because that's what we get here in Canada. Don't know what they get in the states.
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?8985f76d58.jpg
Is it this?
LOL just have to make sure cuz I might be misinterpretting everything:P

[HipToss]

You are correct in the picture ToeKnee. OP MORE PICS!!! :)

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Also, I'm curious about a couple things:
1) my garage tend to be a little dusty. would that screw everything up if I dont' do it somewhere nicer?
2) What's the likelihood of screwing something up? Any headsups?
3) What kind of masking method did you do to get the rear valence to stay partially black? Masking tape would leak slightly no matter what, from my experience.

Thanks for the help :)

I sanded with the sander in the post until the bumps were gone, used adhesion promoter, then primer , then paint. That will stick trust me.

As for your garage, sweep it out the night before and if your really worried about it spray it out the night before then after its dry close the door and leave it closed.

pics to follow of mine now.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Here are some pics nearly 2 months of hard seattle driving later.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/Paintnow.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/paintnow2.jpg

Still looks great in person!

[DarkstaR]

judging from the pics, the color looks noticeably off from the OEM paint

[conom06d]

glad you got this, I happened to buy this today. How many BMP spray cans will i need from VW? Duplicolor doesnt seem to have bmp buy now button

[Toeknee]

nice pics :D

was thinkin about getting a bodykit purely because the stock black plastic molding is ass-fugly. This would eliminate that need, awesome. Gonna try this out when my car arrives :D

Btw, what does BMP stand for?

[haroman311]

its off in pics, but im sure if u saw it in person, u couldnt tell in person.

[salukiwildcat]

nice pics :D

was thinkin about getting a bodykit purely because the stock black plastic molding is ass-fugly. This would eliminate that need, awesome. Gonna try this out when my car arrives :D

Btw, what does BMP stand for?

BMP stands for Black Magic Pearlescent (sp?), the color of black VW makes our GTIs in :thumbup:

[Psy GTI]

judging from the pics, the color looks noticeably off from the OEM paint

x2. but perhaps thats only in the pictures and it looks better in person

[BodegaBay]

I sanded with the sander in the post until the bumps were gone, used adhesion promoter, then primer , then paint. That will stick trust me.

I highly recommend Urethane Supply's "Bumper Adhesion Primer (http://www.urethanesupply.com/bcap.php)" for the raw TPO plastic from our GTI's. It's stick like no other on the market.

See for yourself the step-by-step process here (http://www.urethanesupply.com/bcap.php). They even prove it by trying to pressure wash it off but it simply doesn't unless you put a hole in that bumper.

Good stuff.

[Toeknee]

whoa that looks like an awesome product....it promotes and primes at the same time, and the example is convincing..

hmm I hope the spray can version of it does the job equally as well as the paintbucket + spray gun in the photos. I'm guessing probably 2-3 cans of it would be needed to prime all the lower parts.

Thanks for the great site, bookmarked it ;)

[dbduke]

even if you were to use that adhesion primer, you'd still need to sand it down, right?

[saucer]

Every pic I've seen of this colormatching looks off, but ppl swear you can't tell in person. This makes me nervous....

[08AhdowbanGTI]

You cant tell in person;these pictures were taken at dusk and in the shade. IN person you cant tell at all. If you use the OEM paint in a can from VW you will never know.

[saucer]

hmmm... I ordered some OEM paint from my dealer to paint my interior trim, but it was a tiny 8oz can. The larger cans look to be cheaper from a site like paintscratch.com... is their stuff truly truly the same paint code or should I stick with OEM for these bumpers?

[ruffellprefley]

hmmm... I ordered some OEM paint from my dealer to paint my interior trim, but it was a tiny 8oz can. The larger cans look to be cheaper from a site like paintscratch.com... is their stuff truly truly the same paint code or should I stick with OEM for these bumpers?

my OEM spray can paint is way too white compared to the cw of my car. i'm going to try paintscratch for my rear emblem/side markers

[saucer]

my OEM spray can paint is way too white compared to the cw of my car. i'm going to try paintscratch for my rear emblem/side markers

I was afraid of this, as the OEM touch-up pen I used on my CW is also way too white!

[CharlieH]

I did the diy and sanded down the parts and took them to a painter. He ordered they paint by the code LB9A and used PPG paint and top coat.

The color did not match. :( Not bad for $200 but not great.

To do it right you need to pull the gas door and give it to the guy to color match the paint.

BTW my car is Candy White and is 2 months old.

Oh yeah, and getting the rear bumper back on aint easy either.

[dbduke]

CharlieH, got any pics of how it turned out?

[CharlieH]

Some quick snaps --- I installed H&R race springs yesterday :thumbup:


http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010036.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010037.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010038.jpg

[conom06d]

looks better in those pics. now get rid of those denvers

[dbduke]

looks fantastic! great job!

if i were you i'd lose or tint the yellow sidemarkers and plasti-dip your back badge, but it looks great!

[HipToss]

Some quick snaps --- I installed H&R race springs yesterday :thumbup:


http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010036.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010037.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i147/cgherrington3/GTI/P1010038.jpg

Did you have your exhause tips painted or is that just the light?

[CharlieH]

Krylon satin black on the tips.

What to think about painting the "wing" black?

[Psy GTI]

Krylon satin black on the tips.

What to think about painting the "wing" black?

Definitely don't paint the wing black. I think your car looks awesome how it is, a black wing would be too showy, while your car has cool subtleties to it.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Looks great man can barely tell that its off at all.

[Geesevs]

why isn't this a sticky or at least in the DIY top...unless Im blind

[08AhdowbanGTI]

:headbang: STICKY!!!!!!! :fighting0030:

[gtirevo33]

Krylon satin black on the tips.

What to think about painting the "wing" black?

If you did that i would also do the side mirrors flat back with the wing.

[GTIxpinay]

subscribed

[Adv4nc3r_Mk5]

my friend is working in a bodyshop and i asked him about painting my lowers, and quess what? he told me its not a good idea. if i will get a stone chip it may crack the whole thing and blah blah blah. So what u think? whats the real deal?
i saw same RS Golf like mine on parking lot with painted lowers and it was lovely

[mikegabriel]

^ I got the same response from the body shop here. Said stone chips would be very easy.

[Adv4nc3r_Mk5]

im not worried about normal stone chips, i have already few on the hood and roof, but i dont want long cracks and such things. so anybody here with experience?

[dbduke]

i have a buddy with a votex kit, and its all doing well after a couple years except for the front lip, which is starting to take a beating. but i guess you could remove, sand and respray just the front lip once every couple of years... that doesnt sound like too much of a pain.

[Adv4nc3r_Mk5]

i have a buddy with a votex kit, and its all doing well after a couple years except for the front lip, which is starting to take a beating. but i guess you could remove, sand and respray just the front lip once every couple of years... that doesnt sound like too much of a pain.

just every couple of years? thats amazing. i think i will make him to paint mine (until i can afford new bumper and lip)

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Speaking from experience... i work at cardomain.com and have owned and modified 10 cars in my life... if you paint it correctly and take all the steps required then the paint that you do in your garage will be just as durable. Matching "perfectly" or not my painted lowers have no chips in them, then again niether does any other part of my car. Just do it rite and it wont chip easily.

[Uberryan]

sticky this, i had to search for it.

[ghost_03]

+1 more for sticky. i really want to do this but like others am scared.

[Adv4nc3r_Mk5]

i want to buy one more bumper and lip and let it paint by my friend in bodyshop. i know i will f*ck it up by myself :thumbsup:

[08AhdowbanGTI]

+1 more for sticky. i really want to do this but like others am scared.

A thought about being scared of doing this... you can always re-do it if you fuck it up. Just sand it back down and try again. OR your other option is buy the lip kit youve been looking at and have it painted. Magic , everything is all better. Take the risks and you will be happy with your product just take it slow and follow all of the steps.

Good luck everyone and keep pushing for a sticky on this! :)

[mikegabriel]

I was gonna pull my lip off today when I was washing my car but I don't have my greenhouse cleaned out enough yet to start sanding :P Maybe next week.

[GTIxpinay]

i've been having problems reattatching my sideskirt on the drivers side. I used 3M tape on the drivers side, but it wont stay attatched to my car.

help please!

[conom06d]

yeah there they have clips on them and then the dealer uses a special pastelike glue to keep it on. Just take it to the dealer attached with the clips only and say the skirts are lifting. They fixed mine under warranty

[mikegabriel]

Assuming you've replaced all the screws and they are sucked in well.

Is the 3m tape the same thickness as the original that was on there. When you seal it does it hold for a while and then let go?

[GTIxpinay]

Assuming you've replaced all the screws and they are sucked in well.

Is the 3m tape the same thickness as the original that was on there. When you seal it does it hold for a while and then let go?

i replaced all the screws, and its about the same thickness. i used molding double sided tape, and it holds and lets go.

[mikegabriel]

Hmm... Does it let go on the cars body side or on the side that sticks to the skirt?

If on the body of the car, try waxing it off and cleaning it good.

If on the skirt side, again maybe a good cleaning but you could do what I always do to my MKIII Jetta. It's trim that runs mid door is slowly starting to fall off. It was held on by double sided tape but after 10 years that is done for....

Automotive Goop - Spread on and stick. Stuff wont let go. Wouldn't recommend putting it on the body of the car. I did to my Jetta cause I just don't care anymore :P

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-automotive-goop-and-reg-160011-6-pack--pi-1418956.html (Thats a 6 pack, you only need a bit)

Also assuming you are snapping the clips back into place.

[Meat]

What tape is available that will fit in the groove that the original tape fits into? The only tape I have found is not narrow enough to fit in there.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

i've been having problems reattatching my sideskirt on the drivers side. I used 3M tape on the drivers side, but it wont stay attatched to my car.

help please!
Did you make sure that you slipped the side skirt over the lip that is under the side skirt when you take it off? If so you can take a "C" clamp and attach it to the inside of the finder well and the outside of the side skirt with something soft inbetween it and the painted surface. Then clamp it down and leave it over night. It will stay if you made sure that the surface was clean. If that doesnt work try using adhesion promoter. :)

POST UP PICS YA'll

[Meat]

My sides and front are at the painter (I prep'd them myself, but I can get them painted professionally through a friend's father for much cheaper than by my own hands). Hopefully I have them before waterfest.

[ghost_03]

Bump because I picked up an orbital sander today. Probably going to be a while before I'm finished as I don't have tons of free time, but I'll post pictures when I am.

[SweetMeatMKV]

So... when priming, you sprayed once, waited 15 minutes, sanded with 600 grit, and then did you wipe down the pieces with denatured alcohol before the next coat of primer?

[Meat]

Yes, that's what I did. I blew the pieces off with my air compressor and then wiped them. But I waited an hour or so before sanding.

[MADgolFER]

man i sooo wanna do this but im scared....

[Jeffh97]

Well i did this tonight. Still have to put on the clear coat in the morning i hope it turns out good. I will post some pictures once i get it installed i used paint from automotivetouchup.com.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Well i did this tonight. Still have to put on the clear coat in the morning i hope it turns out good. I will post some pictures once i get it installed i used paint from automotivetouchup.com.


awesome man! Mine still look like the day i painted them. Good luck and go slow , patience is key!

PICTURES! PICTURES! PICTURES! :smile:

[Jeffh97]

awesome man! Mine still look like the day i painted them. Good luck and go slow , patience is key!

PICTURES! PICTURES! PICTURES! :smile:


It looks pretty good the color match is pretty good i am still working on getting the clear coat to match the clear coat on the car. I need more shine.

[08AhdowbanGTI]

It looks pretty good the color match is pretty good i am still working on getting the clear coat to match the clear coat on the car. I need more shine.
You can always wetsand in between clear coats. Try using the finest paper you can find and running a hose over the clear while sanding. This process takes a long time but will turn out like glass. Then when your done just buff the hell out of the paint.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

[HipToss]

It looks pretty good the color match is pretty good i am still working on getting the clear coat to match the clear coat on the car. I need more shine.

Did you use a primer filler or did you sand?

[Jeffh97]

I sanded it was quite the PITA.

[hillstrubl]

this looks absolutely fantastic.
Its now on my list of to-do's, I may add-in light painting on the reflector/indicators, VW Badges and the plastic interior trim around the radio/HVAC
great writeup.

[pakubear]

i did my real valance and boy did that come out crappy..lol, thank god i drive a uni black..oh well when i get my side skirts im sending then all to go paint...

[08AhdowbanGTI]

Meat... how did yours turn out?

[Meat]

Meat... how did yours turn out?

Good. I am very happy with it. I sanded and primed my rear and sides and got them back from my painter 2 days before waterfest. For $60 I can't complain. I'm on vacation now, but when I get home I'm going to do a proper photoshoot and I'll post my results here.

[Jeffh97]

Alright i finally got around to installing the painted valences. here are some quick pictures i took. I am pretty happy with the results i do have some rough spots, but turned out pretty good i think.

And yes i know i need to lower it.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/jeffh97/carpaint2.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/jeffh97/carpaint3.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/jeffh97/carpaint4.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/jeffh97/carpaint5.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/jeffh97/carpaint6.jpg

[08AhdowbanGTI]

That looks great man ! Nice work!

[utekineir]

Think i screwed up mine, havent done anything more than the lip yet, wanted to sort out my mistakes on that first.

The clear coat is very cloudy in lots of spots, pretty sure it was too humid when i sprayed the coats. Guess i either have to let it sit a few days and hope it clears, or sand down.

[utekineir]

So far I still can't get a shine worth a damn out of the clear coat. I've tried wetsanding, waxing, polishing compound and a buffer, sanding off the clear and trying again, etc, etc, etc. So far I've only done the front lip, wanted to work out how to do everything right on the piece with the least surface area.

I'm starting to wonder if the duplicolor clear i bought from autozone is just garbage.

The match on the paint itself which I got locally at a place that makes custom cans ($20 each) is perfect. But the clear is just garbage, it doesn't give anything better than a dull shine, not even remotely similar to the body panels.

Any suggestions?

http://gallery.mac.com/utekineir/100031/IMG_0728/web.jpg

[ruffellprefley]

The match on the paint itself which I got locally at a place that makes custom cans ($20 each) is perfect. But the clear is just garbage, it doesn't give anything better than a dull shine, not even remotely similar to the body panels.

Any suggestions?


i'd suggest getting a clear coat from the local place that makes custom cans...

[utekineir]

Yeah, that was my next step once i was out that way. I allready had the duplicolor cans before I knew of the store where the paint cans came from. Guy there didn't really try sell me on what he had for clear, said the duplicolor should be fine.

[ruffellprefley]

Yeah, that was my next step once i was out that way. I allready had the duplicolor cans before I knew of the store where the paint cans came from. Guy there didn't really try sell me on what he had for clear, said the duplicolor should be fine.

interesting. i saw you tried "polishing compound" with a buffer. is that the same as "rubbing compound"? anyway, good luck in getting it shined up

[utekineir]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31w55i9vEIL._SL500_AA220_.jpg

Honestly i know nothing and dick about auto painting, so maybe this wasn't the proper thing to use. It wasn't used the first attempt. The results weren't much better than the first.

[Msteadman]

:laughabove: to nothing and dick :bellyroll:

[08AhdowbanGTI]

So far I still can't get a shine worth a damn out of the clear coat. I've tried wetsanding, waxing, polishing compound and a buffer, sanding off the clear and trying again, etc, etc, etc. So far I've only done the front lip, wanted to work out how to do everything right on the piece with the least surface area.

I'm starting to wonder if the duplicolor clear i bought from autozone is just garbage.

The match on the paint itself which I got locally at a place that makes custom cans ($20 each) is perfect. But the clear is just garbage, it doesn't give anything better than a dull shine, not even remotely similar to the body panels.

Any suggestions?

The only think you can try to do is wet sand the pieces and then lay the clear on heavy.

In the DIY i stated that the first 2 coats should be relatively light and the 3rd and 4th much heavier. I.E. if your first two passes take a total of 5 seconds on the front lip , try increasing your pass time to something more like 15 seconds. Just watch for runs and pools. If you do this step while the last coat is still tacky you shouldnt see any runs or pools as long as you dont spray in one spot like a jack ass forever.

This is a common problem.

Good luck

[g60_corrado_91]

Not to bump this back up, but how deep are you guys sanding it down? I know you have to get rid of the texture to make it smooth, but just how far down is that?

I'm asking because the other day a car in front of me made a piece of metal or something in the road hit my car and it hit the passenger sideskirt. I suppose that's better than the body, but it still irritates me. It's probably 2 or 3mm deep.

[HipToss]

Not to bump this back up, but how deep are you guys sanding it down? I know you have to get rid of the texture to make it smooth, but just how far down is that?

I'm asking because the other day a car in front of me made a piece of metal or something in the road hit my car and it hit the passenger sideskirt. I suppose that's better than the body, but it still irritates me. It's probably 2 or 3mm deep.

Can you feel it with your fingernail? If so, it may need pro fixing.

[g60_corrado_91]

Can you feel it with your fingernail? If so, it may need pro fixing.

Yeah, I can definitely feel it. That's what I figured. I may just be better off getting a new sideskirt if it's less than $100, but right now I can't be spending money on my car. I'll have to deal with it.

[HipToss]

You can always get clearcoat in a bottle and use a toothpick to "fill" the scratch, then wet sand it down. May not be best answer, but will do for now.

[Meat]

I finally got a pic that kinda shows my results from painting my lip and skirts:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/GorillaMeat/Sebring%20Sept%202008/DSC_3038.jpg

[g60_corrado_91]

^ Whoa. When did you get the stock bodykit again and why? Too much with road racing?

Looks great from the picture though.

[HipToss]

I finally got a pic that kinda shows my results from painting my lip and skirts:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/GorillaMeat/Sebring%20Sept%202008/DSC_3038.jpg

Looks good. I really want to do this on my UG. How difficult would you say it would be for 1 person to remove and reinstall the lowers? Got shots of the rear? Also, how much of the front did you paint on the lower section, the whole thing?

[Housetek]

looks fantastic!

i just gota make sure i get the right paint to match tornado red

[Meat]

^ Whoa. When did you get the stock bodykit again and why? Too much with road racing?

Looks great from the picture though.

Yeah the front lip was too low and actually started falling apart (not from tracking but from daily driving). The Reiger side skirts also made it a royal PITA to get to the jack points. I'd have to jack the car from 4 separate points to get it off the ground where as I can do it with 2 using the stock skirts. I left the rear though as that doesn't really have much of an impact on anything.

Looks good. I really want to do this on my UG. How difficult would you say it would be for 1 person to remove and reinstall the lowers? Got shots of the rear? Also, how much of the front did you paint on the lower section, the whole thing?

It's fairly easy. I took the stock kit off and installed my Rieger/ABT kit myself. It was the same process to swith them back. The rear is still the Rieger rear (I didn't paint that myself). I painted the whole front lip (except for the back side).

looks fantastic!

i just gota make sure i get the right paint to match tornado red

thanks. the color code for TR is LY3D

[HipToss]

Could someone post a quality pic of closeups of the paint jobs they have done on the stocks lowers? Looking to see how smooth it looks, also what pocess you did, sanded, primer filler, etc...

Respect,

A

[97C280]

Bumping this thread because I'm on the process of doing my lowers. I've taken off all the pieces and have sanded it. I recommend an Orbital Sander as well makes it so much quicker and easier. I will do a final wetsand to smooth everything out tomorrow. Then get ready for primer and possibly my paint.

BTW, OP, did you remove the old tape on the skirts? And what type or 3M Double Sided Tape did you use? Just regular double sided or something more advance?

[LoyalSage]

Bumping this thread because I'm on the process of doing my lowers. I've taken off all the pieces and have sanded it. I recommend an Orbital Sander as well makes it so much quicker and easier. I will do a final wetsand to smooth everything out tomorrow. Then get ready for primer and possibly my paint.

BTW, OP, did you remove the old tape on the skirts? And what type or 3M Double Sided Tape did you use? Just regular double sided or something more advance?

looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

[97C280]

So, I used Goo Gone on the tape that is stuck from the side skirt on the body and have no luck.. What did you guys use!! This stuff is stuck on hard!

[Cortland]

All of you guys did a great job!

[brekdown29]

I'm in the process right now of getting this done platinum gray...should be all finished and back on the car by next weekend. I got a pint from automotivetouchup.com and the paint match should be perfect. I feel like a douche driving around with no side skirts though, lol.

I would also like to know if it's advisable to remove all of the old tape before reapplying new double sided tape or if it's fine just to leave the remnants of what's left on since it will get covered up anyway?

[g60_corrado_91]

Probably better to take the remnants off if you can since it will stick better.

[Meat]

get it all off. use a razor blade, goo-gone or goof off, and some acetone to clean it up as best as possible

[97C280]

I got most of the tape off the car. I useed Goo Gone and that didn't work so well. I used a flat type of thing that you use to chip off paint or w.e on walls on them and it got most of it off. There is more that is stuck to the car. The skirts I didn't bother taking off the tape. I will give it another shot.

BTW. I have my pieces primer. I had some troubles with the spray gun and spent majority of my time cleaning it out with some MEK from Ace.

[97C280]

Hey guys, I just noticed a I bought a 8oz of base coat that I need to mix with 8oz of thinner/basemaker. This brings it to a total of 16oz. Will this be enough for my parts? it seems very little because I bought a Quart, 32oz of primer and I had just about enough. Many of it was lost in the air due to the air gun.

If anyone can help me out, I'd like to go buy another pint of paint before I start.

EDIT: I bought an 16oz (1 Pint) in addition to my 8oz (.5 Pint) and that was pretty much just enough to paint my pieces. I will be clear coating my pieces tomorrow!

Here's the amount of product I've used so far:
1 32oz (1 Quart) of Primer + 1 12oz Spray Can of Primer
1 8oz (.5 Pint) of Base Coat + 1 16oz (1 Pint) of Base coat + 24oz of Basemaker (thinner)

[danielmeigs]

really excited about this. its great to be able to avoid spending so much cash on a body kit, when i can make my own.

[NYugGTI]

Nice this exactly what I was looking for thank you!

[NYugGTI]

BTW any pics in UG?

[coelhinho]

Ok went to the dealer and they only had 4oz cans of CW. I'm just doing my side moldings and bumper strips. How many cans should I use?

[coelhinho]

All questions answered. I got lazy an didn't read through. Great thread. Thanks guys.

[BamaKID]

where did u buy ur duplicolor
i have TR what is the code ?

[Meat]

LY3D

[Sam_Shake]

yea where u recommend getting close to TR paint?

[g60_corrado_91]

yea where u recommend getting close to TR paint?

Duplicolor with the paint code Meat listed. LY3D

[achia]

i just got quoted from a local guy i know. dont trust myself enough to do it myself. any problems with cracking since the plastic flexes? also, how long is it expected to last in decent condition?

[mx493tony]

mine just went to the shop today to get some work done.. with the textured stock lowers you need special priemer so the paint sticks properly.. the kind he got for my car is about 180 a quart at his cost..!!! its softens the plastic and sticks just as good as if it was metal. he said it'll look the same as when i get if back from the shop to the day i get rid of the car... i cant wait... some 007 shit

[dpham00]

added to diy sticky

[VDubz85]

will any clear coat do? Or does it have to be VW Dealer shit?

Dupli Color sells european clear coat at any auto parts store, wonderin if thatll work

[08AhdowbanGTI]

added to diy sticky

YES My First Sticky Awesome

[linux_guy]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31w55i9vEIL._SL500_AA220_.jpg

Honestly i know nothing and dick about auto painting, so maybe this wasn't the proper thing to use. It wasn't used the first attempt. The results weren't much better than the first.

Good one. I am reading through this thread, and half worried, half confident I come across your post. That is what I know too:
Nothing and dick about auto painting.:biggrin:

[coelhinho]

I bought a use rear valance and plan to do this. It has scratches on the lower half. Want to keep it CW on top and black on the bottom. I don't want it glossy black. Will flat black hold up? Hows your bumper holding up?

[Psy GTI]

Removed and sanded myself, had a shop paint:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t139/mankey25/painted1jpg.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t139/mankey25/painted2.jpg

Color is dead on

[Cortland]

Removed and sanded myself, had a shop paint:

http://bl122w.blu122.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=e594d3a2-5206-4d0c-a0f0-fa125f77b3d2&Aux=44|0|8CB9D83A240F7D0|

http://bl122w.blu122.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=d2bff383-6675-445a-a7cb-1f2919646178&Aux=44|0|8CB9D83861BC490|

Color is dead on


pics aren't working. how hard was it to remove them and sand them yourself?

[Psy GTI]

pics aren't working. how hard was it to remove them and sand them yourself?

is it fixed now?

it was very easy to remove the rear, and the sides were easy too but removing the double-sided tape was a bitch. I had to use a lot of goo gone and scraping.

Sanding is easy, just be thorough. Total sanding time of both side skirts AND rear valence (2 passes each piece with a handheld orbital sander, 180 grit i think and 330 grit) was about 5 or 6 hours. It was that long because my orbital sander could not sand some curved surfaces so i had to do them by hand.

[Cortland]

is it fixed now?

it was very easy to remove the rear, and the sides were easy too but removing the double-sided tape was a bitch. I had to use a lot of goo gone and scraping.

Sanding is easy, just be thorough. Total sanding time of both side skirts AND rear valence (2 passes each piece with a handheld orbital sander, 180 grit i think and 330 grit) was about 5 or 6 hours. It was that long because my orbital sander could not sand some curved surfaces so i had to do them by hand.

WOW your car looks great! How are you liking those sportline springs? How much did it cost you to get them painted?

[Psy GTI]

WOW your car looks great! How are you liking those sportline springs? How much did it cost you to get them painted?

thank you! I LOVE the springs, they made the car a hundred times better. It cost me $650 because the painter painted the entire bumper, not just the valence, in order to perfectly blend the colors. I am very pleased though :thumbsup:

[RNCSOFT.COM]

Nice, wish this would work for black though, I'd have to get the paint match cant from the dealer. How long have you had it on and how does it hold up to chipping? Do you have any updated shots of the front lip?

[rs_hunter]

Removed and sanded myself, had a shop paint:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t139/mankey25/painted1jpg.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t139/mankey25/painted2.jpg

Color is dead on

SWEEETTTT!!!:thumbup:

[goudok]

so everything is painted.. my front and back is on..however i tried putting the sides on today and i used the 3M 2way sticky tape and i couldnt get it on properly i was so pissed that i ripped everything off and now gotta go back to the store and buy more tape... did u guys remove the tape before you put it on that rail.. because i did, but once the tape was on the skirt and the tape removed from the other adhesive side i couldnt get it to slide properly on that rail.. the front went it better than the sides.. and the skirts werent even...and the underneat screw holes werent lined up... i was thinking to cutting the tape in half because it also seems that the tape is way too wide and i got the smallest possible one that it comes in..
thanks i need some help

[huntley]

Nice, wish this would work for black though, I'd have to get the paint match cant from the dealer. How long have you had it on and how does it hold up to chipping? Do you have any updated shots of the front lip?

i got the code from the dealer

i only scuffed mine then painted and primer thick coats
wet sand till your fingers bleed then do it again
i paint three times and it looks awsome same exact color and never chip
but i painted the entire rear bumper
kinda wish i keeped a lil left but watevs

[pakubear]

well my paint ran a tiny bit in one spot. ("1.5), im guessing wetsand before clearing w/ very fine paper??

[saucer]

well my paint ran a tiny bit in one spot. ("1.5), im guessing wetsand before clearing w/ very fine paper??

yeah - it's safe (and often recommended) to wetsand everything before laying on the clearcoat. I had to hit a few runs before clear on my kit and their no longer noticeable at all.

[pakubear]

awesome, thank i just didnt wanna have it look so good then mess it all up for nothing..

[saucer]

awesome, thank i just didnt wanna have it look so good then mess it all up for nothing..

just make sure you don't sand through the paint surrounding the drip :thumbsup:

[515hmat]

After days of intense rubbing compound sessions, I finally finished mine...

[utekineir]

bought a decent sprayer, had some paint made up, and got some good quality 2 part clear coat to mix.

got the rear resprayed, and the light coats of clear done........

and my fucking compressor died, had to use a shitty thing that couldn't handle enough air to do a heavy coat, and now the rear looks barely better than it did when i started,

fml

[haargerman]

For those that had a shop paint them...how much did it cost?

[xSabretoothx]

Haha..no one has answered the 3M tape question, and it just happens its the one I have as well. Which one?

[utekineir]

standard 3m double sided tape is a bit too big iirc

better off with specific body panel tape that is narrower.

[HipToss]

After days of intense rubbing compound sessions, I finally finished mine...

Who did yours, DIY? Looks great!

[cwhite09GTI]

i just dont think i have the balls to do this...it would be sweet tho...nice work!!

[515hmat]

Who did yours, DIY? Looks great!

Thanks! And yes, it was DIY. I took my time (over the course of 4 months) partly due to the weather (my building roof was the only place to do this...)

[JP2008]

Thanks! And yes, it was DIY. I took my time (over the course of 4 months) partly due to the weather (my building roof was the only place to do this...)

I'm going to be in the same boat lol. Thinking of just prepping and taking it to get painted. How much money did you spend?

[MiKeVGTI]

If you guys don't want to paint it yourself, but still want to cut down on the overall cost, you could always sand it yourself and then have a shop paint it. I'm working on this process as we speak...

[515hmat]

I'm going to be in the same boat lol. Thinking of just prepping and taking it to get painted. How much money did you spend?

It wasn't cheap..., probably around $450. Mainly the matching color paint from paintscratch.com. But it was worth doing it myself because I wanted to have some control. Plus, all the local shops I've talked to didn't believe in painting textured plastic even after I mentioned sanding & adhesion promoter.

[HipToss]

It wasn't cheap..., probably around $450. Mainly the matching color paint from paintscratch.com. But it was worth doing it myself because I wanted to have some control. Plus, all the local shops I've talked to didn't believe in painting textured plastic even after I mentioned sanding & adhesion promoter.

Doing mine now. Paintscratch matches TR and UG amazingly!

[utekineir]

finally redid my lowers except re-clearing the rear a couple weeks ago, having a spray gun/ compressor works far better than rattle canning.

hell the money saved going diy can pay for a spray gun and compressor.

[515hmat]

Doing mine now. Paintscratch matches TR and UG amazingly!

I agree and I'm pretty happy with how mine came out. But I also think matching would depend on how long your car has been exposed to UV. I would love to see yours when it's done also!

[DuBB SWaGG]

Wow, I didnt even think this could be done on the plastic pieces..... I would have hopped on this a loooong time ago..... only thing is I've had my car for 2 years now. United Gray...... and Im worried about matching. I'll still probably go thru with it but just curious..... Anyone had/in a similar situation???

[HyeWarrior]

If you guys don't want to paint it yourself, but still want to cut down on the overall cost, you could always sand it yourself and then have a shop paint it. I'm working on this process as we speak...

How much of a difference do you think that would be????

Anyone with a BMP do this yet? I'm so tempted to tackle this project in the future when I get a votex replica lip...

[Tempted2Speed]

Your my hero.

Love this thread, love this forum. Gonna do this to my front lip. Thank you!!!!

[Jnoonoo]

Did you guys sand the bottom black part of the rear valance? Or did you cover it up when you sanded/painted?

[HipToss]

Covered it...

[Jnoonoo]

thanx

[g_berserk]

Covered it...
+1

the shop that did mine sanded it and then clearcoated... needless to say it looked like ass:frown:
Had to plastidip it later

[eurocars]

subscribed. OP, anyway to get the pics back up?

[tphaeng]

subscribed. OP, anyway to get the pics back up?

X2.....please?

[darcness]

I doubt he will be back. I think he got close to being banned and scammed over some people in the classifieds. I haven't seen him on in AGES.

I might be able to get some pictures up for you guys of my DIY lowers. Let me check my build log and see if I can bring some over here.

[tphaeng]

bump for pics???

[charmersfh]

i wish his pictures are still in working ORDER!!

[eurocars]

sub'd for info

[saucer]

Did anyone figure out how to get a mirror finish with rattle can clear?

I ended up selling my old Votex kit I DIY'd but am now itching to paint my textured. Everything turned out well with the old job, but after wetsanding, several buffs and even a thick recoat, I just could NOT get the clearcoat to shine up like OEM....

If I do this again, I'm tempted to paint myself, and then take the kit in for a professional finish.

[eurocars]

found pictures here http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r283/wmh28_photos/?start=20

[darcness]

Did anyone figure out how to get a mirror finish with rattle can clear?

I ended up selling my old Votex kit I DIY'd but am now itching to paint my textured. Everything turned out well with the old job, but after wetsanding, several buffs and even a thick recoat, I just could NOT get the clearcoat to shine up like OEM....

If I do this again, I'm tempted to paint myself, and then take the kit in for a professional finish.

I don't have any problems with getting my tails to a mirror finish using the same clear that I used for my lowers.

Here's how I would do it:

Adhesion promoter (1 coat)
Filler primer (3-4 coats)
Sand down smooth (400grit, then 800grit)
Base coat (3-4 coats)
Duplicolor Auto Clear (3-4 coats)

After that I let it sit for exactly (or close to) 24 hours. It gives the clear enough time to dry, but not to the point were it's hard to buff it. Then I wet sand with 2000 grit until ALL of the orange peel is gone. This takes a while. Then buff with my Porter Cable 7242XP and a medium cut (uber orange) pad. I buff it until all the scratches from sanding are gone, which can take a while depending on how much you sanded. After that it's a quick polish with the PC and a light cut (uber blue or black) pad and wipe down with a clean microfiber. They come out amazing, just ask those who have gotten them.

[saucer]

I don't have any problems with getting my tails to a mirror finish using the same clear that I used for my lowers.


Good to know, considering I'm on your list now :wink:

[HipToss]

I don't have any problems with getting my tails to a mirror finish using the same clear that I used for my lowers.

Here's how I would do it:

Adhesion promoter (1 coat)
Filler primer (3-4 coats)
Sand down smooth (400grit, then 800grit)
Base coat (3-4 coats)
Duplicolor Auto Clear (3-4 coats)

After that I let it sit for exactly (or close to) 24 hours. It gives the clear enough time to dry, but not to the point were it's hard to buff it. Then I wet sand with 2000 grit until ALL of the orange peel is gone. This takes a while. Then buff with my Porter Cable 7242XP and a medium cut (uber orange) pad. I buff it until all the scratches from sanding are gone, which can take a while depending on how much you sanded. After that it's a quick polish with the PC and a light cut (uber blue or black) pad and wipe down with a clean microfiber. They come out amazing, just ask those who have gotten them.


You are doing lowers now also?